forteh

The 2 angled side plates appear to be flat bar stock with a pocket and the ends machined, the box construction is all plate The mounts are just threaded tube welded in, much neater and simpler imho; the hose guides are just a saddle that seats the hose and has a hole for zip tie to secure it.

Alex, you may be interested to see how the triton chainstay yoke is done, being titanium its a bit of a no no to just whack a huge block of milled metal in there Its constructed from titanium plate and nothing else, will get a photo for you later if you want. Tyre clearance isnt an issue, it fits a 2.4 rubber queen in there without any major hassles edit: found a picture of aforementioned chainstay yoke (plus a sneaky boasting photo of how light the frame is )

Only thing you can realistically do is strip them if the colour change is bothering you

You dont need a cnc machine to cut and mitre the tubes, it may make manufacturing yokes and dropouts easier though. A frame building jig is pretty easy to knock up, getting the tubes all cut to fit 1st time is the hard bit

Nice, when is the 16t bash being released At 40g that has to be titanium, any guess on a price as yet Im guessing you have shaved down the thickness of the pedal ends of the burns?

Aha, cheers for posting that info, all making more sense now Ive just lost 100g by putting foam grips on, dont know why I didnt before hand - best 3 quid I ever spent My triton is now down to 8.83kg but I dont have any ti or alu bolts (I dont entirely trust aluminium and Ive only got 14 steel bolts on my bike, saving approximately 2-3g per bolt isnt worth justifying the 30 quid it will cost; besides which ti bolts into a ti frame is asking for galled threads) I can lose another 50-60g on the front tube and also alu nipples would take it to about 8.75kg. Ive not modified any parts on the bike apart from the rear dx32 is drilled Im 20kg heavier than you but dont go particularly big so the rubber queen with a standard butyl tube has been just fine so far. Any plans on releasing a 16t version of the middleburn bash?

The frame is 100g, the SL forks are 200g, I dont know where the other 300g are Tyre cutting is a possibility but I dont think it is going to lose that much - my triton is 8.95 atm but thats with heavy pace forks, I dont have any ti fixings though but everthing else is about as light as you can get it apart from a skinny front tube which will lose another 50g. Im intrigued as to how he has managed it oh and alloy nipples I havent got :$ edit: my triton frame is near as dammit the same weight as the 09 control - ok its 5g lighter.

You will get them, just might take a while as Steve is a very busy man with a young family Hopefully you dont need them urgently though.

Email or PM?

How did you get your bike 600g lighter than stans hydroxx?

If you cant justify the expenditure yet then look for some bolt through skewers, Im using some ti ones that I got sent over from the states and theyre superlight (25g for the rear one) but being ti they possibly dont hold quite as tightly as steel could - still more than enough for me. You could even knock up a test by simply buying an M5 x 150 socket head cap screw in steel and using a couple of skewer end caps/washers to try it

Ive still got just over a mm left on my red pads, still got plenty of time left till they are gone completely I can wait

Likewise, Im waiting on a set of yellow refills but not had any response to pms, its been two weeks but Im not in any major rush. Hope everything is ok with steve

Im 90% sure the HG spline is larger than the 1.37" thread on cranks Obviously if youre running FFW then there is no need for a splined attachment, however not everyone uses FFW Sorry wandering off topic here... As you were

Aphex Twin - Fenix Funk 5

If you are going to continue with the frame idea then I would recommend looking at steel rather than aluminium, the cost and ease of working would make it a far easier project. Also look at brazing as you will have less problems with HAZ and you can always leave it lacquered bare metal & fillet braze for an awesome look Have a look at other steel frames for headtube gusseting, particularly bmxs; for example the standard STA frame for pretty much bombproof gussetting (I can take photos of mine if youre struggling ). Also consider your different options for strength to weight ratios, if you can make it out of a higher grade, larger diameter, thinwall tube then it will be stiff whilst carrying minimal weight - you need to consider dent resistance aswell though. It is possible to make an incredibly strong yet light structure from steel, put some clever design and you will get there. If you want me to have a look at some ideas and offer opinion/pointers then give us a yell, more than happy to help

Blimey, I get a mention on the list of people what is clever A couple of points: - Going for as much of a self built full bike is imho too big for a college project I think you would do better to concentrate on one particular part of the bike (perhaps a frame/forks) and look to develop that properly rather than cobble together numerous different elements. Quality not quantity Perhaps concentrate your efforts into an area of trials bikes that could be improved upon, for example a standard HG spline interface that could fit onto threaded cranks, ie: you can fit a standard cassette sprocket onto your favourite cranks. Possibly even an integrated BB/crank interface similar to the shimano saint cranks that will allow the use of hollowtech BBs, an option could be to develop an axle that is compatible with the current trials cranks but also with hollowtech BBs. I dont know how much time/funding/resources you get with your project but designing and manufacturing a frame (especially from aluminium) isnt going to be cheap, personally I would investigate something that you can fit to any bike and genuinely be a marketable product - that way you can be really proud and say "I designed that!" - Its happened to me alot at work and its a great feeling to know that something you designed works Im not trying to put a damper on your ideas, purely speaking from personal experience from college, uni and the last 8 years working in a design office. Good luck with your project

3x for the rear If youre using rim brakes only then you can get away with radial laced (although it wont take massive gaps to front wheel, although I suspect youre not doing those yet ). However if youre ever considering using a front disk you will need to cross lace, you might get away with 2x but personally I would go with 3x to be sure. Im using radial lacing with a mavic xc717 on a hope mono hub, the wheel is more than strong enough for my usage but still rather lightweight

Getting much, much better now. Reckon you could be quite a decent rider when you get older/stronger

If the lacquer is in reasonable nick then I would key it with some wet & dry, degrease it all and then spray over that

Pretty much what he said The weight you save will be absolutely minimal (unless its really silly thick carbon), however if youre insisting on cutting it then you can use a very fine pitch hacksaw or even better a cutting disk. The edges shouldnt splinter with the cutting disk but it may with the hacksaw, if it does splinter I believe you can rebind the loose bits with superglue. The dusty is nasty - get a mask

You will have to find one in 9/16", 20tpi l/h and r/h cycle thread though, thats the hard part, infact I would say nigh on impossible

My dx32 is awesome, drilled at 18mm its almost as light as a tryall h0le, I believe you can get the drilling up to 25mm without major problems

Keep the king, just get a set of bolt through skewers if you think the QR isnt going to hold it IMHO the QR will hold it fine in conjunction with snailcams and there is no real substitute for a king. If youre still not convinced with the bolt through skewer then get an HD axle and funbolts

Either 2nd hand on here or brand new form aspirevelotech Cheapest from here and the hub is likely to be bedded in so you dont have to do it, then again you dont know what state the hub is in - generally they are very good but bombproof as they are an unserviced king will eventually become knackered