forteh

Not sure I can make it now, friends visiting from laaandaan town Might get over for a couple of hours, more than likely not though

I couldnt half stroke tap with 18:15 but Im learning with with 16:14, not as high but getting better

Yup Need to be fairly intemate with your balance point though

I was finding that with 18:16, was too slow for my tapping and rear wheel technique tried switching to 18:15 with the 165s and found it better for taps but just a touch too hard. Gone to 16:14 which is halfway between the 2 and adjusted my pedalling alittle and I can gap further, tap and backwheel higher than I could before (although 40" isnt very high for a back wheel :$ )

22:15 would be far too heavy, try dropping the rear sprocket to a 17 - it will make more difference than you think edit: thats assuming youre talking about stock :$

Also dont try to cut the hose with cable cutters, use a sharp stanley knife and cut it straight down onto a hard surface, failing a stanley knife a decent smooth kitchen knife will suffice

No, fortunately mine broke pretty straight and healed in the same shape as the opposite side. I dont think it affects the strength of the collarbone if it doesnt heal straight, just looks a bit odd I remember now, it was 1995 when I was doing my GCSEs because the deputy head gave me a bollocking for using the linisher in tech class with one arm in a sling

Take the slaves off the bike, remove the crossover/barb and cut the hose just above the shroud nut. Stick the shroud nut in a vice and twist it off, failing that file flats/a slot on there and take it off that way. As psycholist said you will need a new olive aswell

18:16 on 175 cranks will be pretty low gearing, if you have to buy some cranks I would go for some 170s so youre in the middle ground. Either way you will adjust to the new gearing with alittle time

Triggers broom

Your question makes no sence, can you elaborate?

I broke mine sledging aswell, was years ago when we had freak snow in may, mid 1990s I think I dislocated the broken outside end of the bone aswell just to add to the pain, also trapped a nerve when as it was healing so had occasional shooting pains up the side of my neck for about 5 years afterwards After all that it healed nice and straight and hasnt given me any problems, think I was off bikes for a couple of months but I wasnt riding trials back then.

Yup, after I had finished typing my reply Personally I use 16:14 on 165 cranks which is near enough the same as 18:15 on 175 cranks.

18:16 on mod? You will be pedalling like mad everywhere Common mod gearing is 18:12 I believe, common stock gearing is 18:16 with short (165) cranks or 18:15 with long (175) cranks. edit: according to sheldon brown gearing calculator 18:16 on 26" is about the same a 18:12 on 20". This is assuming youre keeping the same crank length as that makes a massive difference to gearing feel.

Loved that, chilled, big riding and such a smooth style edit: better for lack of fisheye imho.

Running a 1" wide tyre? Awesome

Similar situation with my booster, its a lightweight carbon arch (about 20g) but its really dense weave and decent quality. It doesnt eliminate all of the flex though but I dont get any brake slip and I prefer a slightly squidgy lever feel as it helps with the tendonitis in my fingers Interesting concept on stretching the booster, think I might be able to strech mine by hand a bit before clamping, something to try. I think I will try filing my mounts back and doing mine like this, will save more weight on mine as I have steel bolts

Monty foam grips, cost 3 quid, saved over 100 grams Rubber queen rear, cost 20 quid, since gone up to 35 and its generally all round awesome win

Splines straight onto the crank arm like a normal middleburn bash

Oh dear, mine is 480g Whole bike is 8.83kg now Might have to put the light forks back on, down to 8.7kg then

Im will still be coming all being well

A question about the booster if you will. Im assuming you have relieved the brake clamps around the bolt hole in order to sandwich the carbon plate, have you found that this is stiffer than the conventional tube and spacer arrangement? I guess that it will give less resistance to torsional loads along the length of the chainstay but give more resistance to the chainstays spreading? Interested in doing that on mine if it does make it a touch stiffer

My frame aswell, very light, very strong, springy, perfect geo for me Rubber queen on the back so, so grippy

Centrepunch your rim 1st (which you should do with any hole anyways) and it wont jiggle about

I think I love you Thought the 40g weight seemed a touch low for ti as the middleburn 16t ti full bash is 105g, that will save me another chunk of weight (when I can justify the £1 per gram cost ).