forteh

Just use the 3in1, I used some of my dads that was at least 20 years old and that was fine I doubt there would be any problems with using synth oils, it only really affects clutch plates, in this case I dont think thats really relevant

Does trav do warrenty returns? I know what youre saying about the other bits being worn, there is a fair amount of brinelling on the axle from the driveshell bearing (why it rumbles and proof that ben IS a basher!). Perhaps I should strip the wheel and send it to adam for a full service/refurb and possibly an HD axle if it will stiffen the back end up a bit - likely to cost a pretty penny though. Anyways I couldnt use a proII, theyre way heavier than a king

The oil was specifically halfords cycle oil Its just a plain medium weight lubricating oil, lighter than 10w40 though. 3in1 will do the trick, to be honest as long as it isnt really silly thick you should be ok; perhaps if you use slightly less of the 10w40 youll be ok, basically the lighter the oil the more you can put in hence increasing lubricity (is that even a word? )

The last couple of times Ive been out on the bike my king has been making an occasional click when the chain is under heavy tension (preloading for gaps mainly). I cant feel any slip through the pedals and it isnt a nasty noise, just a single click. It had been a while since I serviced it so I did so before I went out on it tonight, cleaned the splines out as best as possible and dropped a fresh lot of finishline wet in - it clicked once during the hour or so I was riding. The hub is really quite old now, I got it second hand off ben travis back in feb 05 and it was very well used then (ben you basher!!!). There is alittle roughness in the driveshell bearings but it hasnt gotten any worse over the last 4 years and the splines all look absolutely spot on internally, all of the other bearings seem ok. The rest of the drive chain is middleburn 16t ti bash, trialtech lite 14t sprocket and the kmc trialtech chain; the chain and rear sprocket are new in the last 2 months but the ti bash has some hooking on the teeth, I dont think this is causing the problem though. Should I be getting worried or can anyone shed some light?

Its still going absolutely perfectly When I mixed the solution it was in a plastic cup, full to the top with literally 1 tiny drop of washing up liquid. The water was warm as this helps the emulsifiers do their job initially, I also mixed the water, antifreeze and washing up liquid before adding the oil, didnt get any pictures though. Mine didnt froth up at all but it was an opaque white/blue liquid, there were a few air bubbles visible when I first mixed it so I left it to settle for a few minutes and it was all good. I think you may have just used too much washing up liquid, literally it was one drop (for approximately 250ml) and it seems to have worked perfectly. At a rough guess my 250ml mixture was: - 115 ml water 115 ml antifreeze 18 ml oil (a reasonable squirt) 2 ml washing up liquid (a single drop)

Bah rumbled!!!!! That would be the mono hub, mavic xc717, radial sapim DB spokes, mountainking supersonic, maxxis flyweight tube and pvc tape rim tape Can hardly be a competition though because your wheel is smaller than mine

Thats shocking, my front wheel is about 1100 complete

Rebleed it, will be fine

As everyone has said, go for a shimano one and it will be fine for years to come, imho theyre much better than the cheaper VP ones Or if you can find one get a square taper hope ti off ebay; super light, stronger than a similar steel BB, replaceable bearings off the shelf and just generally aweseome Only problem is youre unlikely to find one longer than 122mm so cant use FFW, doesnt bother me as I run a king.

Another vote for the rubber queen, Im using one with a normal tube and havent pinched it yet. I need to run at higher pressures to stop the tyre rolling off the rim (20 psi instead of 15) but this doesnt seem to affect grip atall, the black chilli compound is amazing If youre concerned about the pinches use a thick tube as muel said or look at one of the conti rain kings that nick wood has been testing.

As you hop upwards slightly turn the bars in the direction you want to go, you will find that you will move the bars in a sort of circular scooping motion and the bike should pivot around the rear wheel. As you get better you can do it without the hops and just pivot on the spot, takes a bit to practise though Im left food forwards and my easier way to turn is to the right, I can turn to the left aswell but its not as smooth or controlled.

A bulb is little more than a heavy duty hope xc, not intended for the punishment a proIIt will put up with. If your old hub was the trials version then it would be worth sending it back to hope, I would be suprised if they cant ressurect it

Its been fine for me, held air for over a week now There was one tiny pinhole in there that needed patching, youre just blind

DMR sts was pretty poor, actually no, it failed to hold any tension in the chain at all. Rimjam greens, awesome bite and hold but lasted 4 hours.

A quick rough guide: - Set the bike up so you can see both brake pads and the buckled rim (for doing the rear wheel sit the bike up on the bars and front wheel so you can look at the gaps between the rim and the pads). Turn the wheel untill the buckle is next to the pads. Find the nearest spoke on the side that you want to pull it over and tighten that spoke, you should see the rim move over. Remember that to tighten the spoke you need to turn the nipple clockwise when looking at it from the end (outside the rim), if youre tightening the spoke at the bottom of the wheel then you need to turn the nipple anticlockwise when looking at it. Keep your nipple turns to 1/2 at a time to take the big buckles out and then 1/4 turns for finer adjustment. If you find that the spoke is too tight already then loosen the corresponding spoke on the opposite side of the rim, this will allow the spoke to tighten alittle. Work round the wheel from the valve until you have it all straight Far from complete but its the rough basis.

RB lever Heatsink pads Rubber queen/mountain king Middleburns (got 3 sets now!) hope ti BB King hub

ok another 25g for the sprocket I suppose you also want to add the 6g for the lockring?

Blimey, mines only 285g + 23g bolt through Its bigger aswell!

Look at the setup of the bike then, mods are even easier to hold on the back wheel than stocks

Would it not have been simpler to just say that you have weighed and recorded all the weights of every last little bit of your bike?

Yes... No, I mean no, nothing of the sort ahem :$ I have the financial means and it seemed like a good idea at the time, sort of like a project because I can

Just you wait, young bloody whippersnappers!!! Well my bikes lighterer than yours so ner!!

Trials is initially mainly about technique rather than brute strength, learn to get the basics sorted, then start getting the power on and you will go bigger Only riding trials will condition the muscles that it uses, unless you specifically target the right muscle groups all you will be doing is adding muscle bulk in the wrong places. If youre struggling with technique then find some local riders and learn from them, it really is the best way to progress. edit: damn you muel!!!

Could you tap the upper tube and have an ultra, ultra high BB? :D

Mines down to 8.78kg now by doing exactly that, ok I started with an ultralight frame but in reality I could rebuild it with a 2kg deng monstrosity frame and still have a 9.1kg stock bike