forteh

Will be interesting to see if the frame weights come out as claimed and also the longevity of the frames Until they are weighed properly and tested then I will be a cynic and point out that the weights are probably taken direct form solidworks or inventor (whichever its been modelled with) and dont include weld material or cable/hose guides. 500g is alot to take off a frame without drastically reducing material thicknesses, thinking back to the old haro blammo bmxs, lightweight but much akin to a coke can; I can see a lot of dented frames I can also see alot of seized titanium bolts Nice to see sensible chain tensioners finally being incorporated into mainstream frames though (onza & echo at the same time).

Have you considered looking into pashley/leeson/curtis?

Blimey 4 Ds to get to college? GCSEs are piss easy anyways, nothing to worry about Third year thermodynamics exam at uni was alittle more worrying

Another vote for middleburns, if you cant stretch to a new pair then try to pick some up 2nd hand

Heatsink cnc cousts? Using them on an sd7 with a smooth mavic xc717 rim and its astonishing, loads of power and some modulation Imagine with a grind or tar you would lose the modulation, still not tested the pads in the wet.

Use an RB lever, if the seals start to leak put new ones in Mines still fine after 3 years.

The levelboss is a 1065 wheelbase with a 0 to +5 BB rise (I think), its a good strong frame and not too bad to get you started, the low BB will help you with balance and considering that you are coming at it with a history of other bikes then a high BB (50+) may feel downright weird for you. In general I think a +30 to +35 BB seems to be about the best compromise. In general long wheelbase for stocks (26") are 1100 and short are 1040 up to about 1065, the most seem to be 1080-1090 or there abouts. The levelboss is a pretty short wheelbase compared to most modern frames. Best thing to do is try to get to a trial or a group street ride and have a go on different peoples bikes to see what seems to fit you

Helicoil kit

Its a tucana

T-pro has disk mounts?

With the slaves I would take the wheel and pads out, either pull the pistons out with some pliers on the bobble (carefully) or push them out with the lever and thoroughly clean around the seal and brake recess with an old toothbrush and some paraffin or similar. Once they are clean then drop a bit on oil onto the outside of the piston and into the seal and work the brake back and forward a few times, clean up the excess oil and put it all back together. If you have a water bleed you need to lubricate the pistons in the same way occasionally to stop you get lazy slaves. I dunno about the TPA, I use an RB lever which doesnt have the crap maggie TPA. They are known to be fragile though so take it apart, clean and lube it and see if it works; if not replace it

Why would you want modulation on the rear? CNC V cousts on my front mavic rim rock, loads of modulation and stupid power - not sure what what its like in the wet but dry its easily as good as that 203 mono trial I had (just 250g lighter ) Sorry off topic, should be there all being well

oh my god youre like soooo gay!!! I better turn up now :$ You can have a play on the triton with proper brakes BTW coust pads on a smooth rim = modulation

Do it the weekend before gayface, I cant do the 7th

I had a quick play last night with sidehopping the right way (left foot forward hopping to the right) and found I could quite happily go straight to back wheel that I would struggle to do to back going the other way. Going left is naturally a front wheel or two wheel landing where as to the right seems more comfortable to rear. Will practise more

True I hadnt considered rear disks :$ Was thinking about bmxs where theres loads of clearance between rim and pad

Aha, I have the advantage of being old and rich... Well old and employed as a start Your account is validated by a moderator when you have proven your ability to construct basic english sentences, provide some usefull input to the forums and generally not be a tard. Until youre validated you are restricted to posting in pre-memebers chat From your posts I dont reckon it will take you long to get validated, some people have been pre members for years :D edit: sorry for going off topic

Wouldnt agree with you on the need for graduations, set the chain side to the tension you want, nip up the bolt/screw, then set the non chain side so the wheel is straight in the frame and finally tighten the wheel up properly - job done. Of course it can take a bit of practise and fiddling to get it right but its pretty simple, also depends on how straight your wheel is On the triton Ive used the mech hanger fixing bolt to fit the tensioner to (infront of and above the axle) and rigged up a leaf spring arrangement from a hacksaw blade and bits of aluminium/plastic. Works exceptionally well and is inboard of the chainstays which stops it being twatted like all the tensioners mounted on the mech hanger; also doesnt flap about loads when you take the wheel off

Take it you dont have transport then? Hardly use msn or owt like that, tend to use some new fangled invention called a telephone Get yourself validated on here then you can send PMs, alternatively email me fortyone30@hotmail.com

My preferred way is to the left with left foot forward, can go the other way but not as high or comfortably; working on that though

I dont know why horizontal dropout frames dont have screw tensioners built in like the onza slinger prototype, far simpler and effective than snailcams Also suprised that more stock frames arent coming with integral tensioners either, particularly with the majority of bikes designed for singlespeed. A single bolt inside the rear dropout is all thats needed to bolt it on

Saw that you studied at the college but wasnt sure where you were from Im away this weekend (and for the next 3-4 weekends) but up for a thrash round on a weekday evening. Whats barton like for riding? Ridden burton which wasnt too bad but never barton.

Where abouts are you squad_e? Im in lichfield itself and riding a fair amount, more than happy to help you learn

Welcome to trying to ride a bike unlike any other In my experience its probably best to ignore what youve learnt on other bikes and start in the right place from the onset I wouldnt worry about trying to wheelie, its not particularly easy on a trials bike when compared to a normal mountain bike because there is no seat to balance your weight on. 90% of the time on the rear wheel youre not pedalling, its mainly just balance, work through the basics 1st and get your balance and you should progress well. Trashzen is a very good site with videos and descriptions of the basics, from there its practise and practise and practise. Regarding gear ratio, slightly higher than 1:1 is normal, typically 18:16 or 18:15 for stock bikes (26" wheels); if you go too low you can struggle to get power through the the rear wheel quick enough, too high and youll not be able put enough power into the pedals. Its a trade off of how much power and speed you need and the power your legs can provide.

Weird, might be worth taking the lever apart completely and making sure the barrel and the hole it runs in is smooth and free truning. Cant really explain it though