forteh

Do it the weekend before gayface, I cant do the 7th

I had a quick play last night with sidehopping the right way (left foot forward hopping to the right) and found I could quite happily go straight to back wheel that I would struggle to do to back going the other way. Going left is naturally a front wheel or two wheel landing where as to the right seems more comfortable to rear. Will practise more

True I hadnt considered rear disks :$ Was thinking about bmxs where theres loads of clearance between rim and pad

Aha, I have the advantage of being old and rich... Well old and employed as a start Your account is validated by a moderator when you have proven your ability to construct basic english sentences, provide some usefull input to the forums and generally not be a tard. Until youre validated you are restricted to posting in pre-memebers chat From your posts I dont reckon it will take you long to get validated, some people have been pre members for years :D edit: sorry for going off topic

Wouldnt agree with you on the need for graduations, set the chain side to the tension you want, nip up the bolt/screw, then set the non chain side so the wheel is straight in the frame and finally tighten the wheel up properly - job done. Of course it can take a bit of practise and fiddling to get it right but its pretty simple, also depends on how straight your wheel is On the triton Ive used the mech hanger fixing bolt to fit the tensioner to (infront of and above the axle) and rigged up a leaf spring arrangement from a hacksaw blade and bits of aluminium/plastic. Works exceptionally well and is inboard of the chainstays which stops it being twatted like all the tensioners mounted on the mech hanger; also doesnt flap about loads when you take the wheel off

Take it you dont have transport then? Hardly use msn or owt like that, tend to use some new fangled invention called a telephone Get yourself validated on here then you can send PMs, alternatively email me fortyone30@hotmail.com

My preferred way is to the left with left foot forward, can go the other way but not as high or comfortably; working on that though

I dont know why horizontal dropout frames dont have screw tensioners built in like the onza slinger prototype, far simpler and effective than snailcams Also suprised that more stock frames arent coming with integral tensioners either, particularly with the majority of bikes designed for singlespeed. A single bolt inside the rear dropout is all thats needed to bolt it on

Saw that you studied at the college but wasnt sure where you were from Im away this weekend (and for the next 3-4 weekends) but up for a thrash round on a weekday evening. Whats barton like for riding? Ridden burton which wasnt too bad but never barton.

Where abouts are you squad_e? Im in lichfield itself and riding a fair amount, more than happy to help you learn

Welcome to trying to ride a bike unlike any other In my experience its probably best to ignore what youve learnt on other bikes and start in the right place from the onset I wouldnt worry about trying to wheelie, its not particularly easy on a trials bike when compared to a normal mountain bike because there is no seat to balance your weight on. 90% of the time on the rear wheel youre not pedalling, its mainly just balance, work through the basics 1st and get your balance and you should progress well. Trashzen is a very good site with videos and descriptions of the basics, from there its practise and practise and practise. Regarding gear ratio, slightly higher than 1:1 is normal, typically 18:16 or 18:15 for stock bikes (26" wheels); if you go too low you can struggle to get power through the the rear wheel quick enough, too high and youll not be able put enough power into the pedals. Its a trade off of how much power and speed you need and the power your legs can provide.

Weird, might be worth taking the lever apart completely and making sure the barrel and the hole it runs in is smooth and free truning. Cant really explain it though

Working on the assumption that the brake doesnt need bleeding Take the wheel and pads out, try holding the non stuck piston into the caliper and gently pull the lever, with any luck the stuck piston will free itself. If it doesnt then you might need to clamp the piston in some how in order to force the stuck one to move. Once you have got it moving then you can try running a bit of brake fluid around the outside of the piston to lubricate the seal and make it move more freely. Push the pistons back into the caliper and wipe up ALL of the oil floating about otherwise you will invariably contaminate you pads Another alternative is to send the caliper off to hope and have them service it, shouldnt cost too much money Regarding the brake sticking half way, is the pivot and barrell on the lever lubricated? If the barss barrell in particular is dry and corroded then it can stick like a bitch and make the lever feel horrible, put a drop of oil in there and see if it improves things.

Once youve got a bike build that youre happy with then it costs very little Ok the initial outlay is a fair amount but then its just consumables like pads and tyres (ooh a whole 50-60 quid a year?) if youre breaking parts then learn to ride smoother or save up for decent parts that dont break The only other reason for buying parts is if you fancy a change, Ive changed the spec on the triton left right and centre and Im nearly happy with it now, spent about 500 quid on it in the last 4 months I reckon

Damn light for an eyletted rim Fairly expensive to save 160g but if they prove strong enough and hold a grind I may well consider one Shit Ive turned into a weight weenie

RB ergo F1 lever, smaller piston and longer lever = power Far more comfortable for me than the maggie lever and never had any problems with the pads being too close to the rim, that said I do like to keep my wheels tight and true.

My cnc reds were crap until I took the brake booster off and now theyre absolutely stonking Ive had to thin them down to 4mm thick to get them to fit but steve@heastsink can supply refils new to a specified size if requested. Im running cnc vee cousts on a smooth front rim (mavic xc717 with standard machined sidewall) and its astonishing, loads of power and hold*, yet still with modulation and not too noisy - just a slight whine when slowing down, no honk honk thank god *and its not even running on the powerful setting on the sd7 lever

Worth sigging?

Not sure on the longevity of a titanium sprocket though, reckon the teeth would last you a couple of months at most

Im at work and dont have msn, hardly use it anyways. Get some antivirus and run a full scan, AVG free should be sufficient for your needs. Once youve run a scan make sure that you have a firewall, you may have a hardware firewall on your router, if you know how to set it up then use it; if not then the windows one should be sufficient.

How the f**k do you think they know your password.

Try removing the trojan from your computer and getting a decent firewall

Section of old tyre, cut the bead and part of the sidewall off and ziptie it to your downtube, wont stop the major dents (tube folders) but it does stop some small dings and scrapes

Im running 165 'burns with 18:16, got 18:15 I can put on aswell.

Nope, putting the vee on the front would just about tip the 10kg mark I think, maybe a bit less Just tried fitting it to the back and it all clears with more space than the magura, still not decided what to do though, need to take a touch more material off the cnc reds to get the maggie to clear properly - either way I still cant ride brum grrr!!!!