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forteh

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Everything posted by forteh

  1. But dont forget that a 3/32" chain is typically used on derailleur systems and are required to be more flexible in order to shift smoothly so the inherant looseness in the pins will cause a weak point. If you have a rigidly rivetted 3/32 chain (ie: a narrow bmx chain) then in theory the chain is as strong as an 1/8". Cant remember what size chain is on my bike but its only a skinny one, lasted the past 3 years without any problems, I do look after it though
  2. DX32, learn to keep your spokes tight and never have to buy a new rim again
  3. You try riding all day when youre the wrong side of 29
  4. The only problem I can see with them is that (I think) they only clamp on the ridged section of the slave, I dont know about you but I quite often position the plastic washers beyond the ridged section in order to get the pad in the right place. Also it would be a bitch fitting them with old brake pads unless your slaves were perfectly square to the mounts previously. I havent used them, the standard maggie ones work plenty well enough for myself
  5. Whenever I get on a mod I immediately get off again, imho they feel horrible to ride compared to stock; I dare say if I had a mod myself I would get used to it though. Best thing to do is try one and see how you get on with it
  6. Stan cut out his head tube, BB yoke and BB shell; that was on an xr26 though not a cannibal Cant find the topic either
  7. It wont if your bmx sprockets are the right thickness for an 1/8" chain and youre trying to run a 3/32" chain. The pitch is a standard 1/2" and this never changes. Much like I use a 1/8" chain on both my trials bike and my bmx, yet I use a 3/32" chain on my mountainbike as it needs to be narrower to fit the rear mech.
  8. How can that work? The pitch never changes, the only measurement that does is width.
  9. Congratulations, you saved 0.05g with each hole, about 200 holes on the wheel and youve got a whopping 9-10g saving, awesome.
  10. I tested a maggie carbon 2 bolt booster (one of the flat plate horseshoe ones) on saturdays brum ride and the brake didnt have any issues with reduced bite, but it reduced the flex alittle and gave a slightly firmer feel at the lever; I never had an issue with brake hold before so cant say whether or not it improved it It doesnt eliminate flex completely like the control booster did (when the brake was shite) but it probably reduces the movement in the seatstays by 50% so will probably keep it on to be safe.
  11. The 74k tensioner would work a hell of a lot better if it was a leaf spring
  12. Yup, just technically superior ones
  13. Sorry about the delay, have only got an m6/m8 spare, its the bleed bolt side
  14. Ill have a look, think I might have one spare. Which side you need m6/m8 or m6/m6? Will shove it in me bag tonight and post on here which Ive got
  15. Just wondering, what quantifies people to be a senior member? Are they members from a previous incarnation of TF (which Im aware there was) who have transferred here or is it a qualification that is earnt? Im guessing that its not done by join date because some people have earlier join dates than some SMs. If someone can clear it up for me then that would be smashing
  16. I used to have difficulty with my front wheel moving out of straight when I had a disk, tried every combination of skewer/hub/bolt in and it always moved, only solution was to put new forks on and its been fine since. I think its going to be something I have to try and if it doesnt work then Ill use the bolt ons on my santacruz
  17. Drop from wall to bank? TRA in the bin made me laugh
  18. You sire are a b*****d, making me spend money 32h black non disk? How heavy isnt it? Cant help with a 36h hub for you mines 32 @inur, so I would be better off going for a ti skewer than bolt through? I was originally looking at the controltech bolt throughs as I think they use a 5mm allen key. HD axle and funbolts would be ideal but as I said, until I snap my axle or one comes up dirt cheap
  19. Ive purposefully made it a non deng bike so I can hardly put echo sl parts on there can I? If I find a hope ultralight I shall probably radial the front wheel when I build it. The V weighs about 250g or there abouts (maybe alittle more cos of the coustsinks) so buying a complete new brake for a couple of grams isnt really sensible. The bars and stem can lose some weight, but until Im feeling flush they can wait (the car just cost me the fat end of 500 quid and Im decorating my house )
  20. There are a couple of compromise parts, the king is standard but untill I snap the axle it will stay standard and the aluminium driveshell is ok with wide based sprockets. The single ply rear tyre is also an unknown, Im going to be testing it but Im not a big rider so I expect it may well be ok. The biggest weight saving has been ditching the rear tyre and rim, swapping from 2.5 dual ply high roller/tryall rim/normal tube to 2.35 single ply minion/drilled dx32 saved me 650g in one hit and is easily the most cost effective weight saving device I may still need to put a heavier tube in the rear but Ive been out on it for a few hours and havent pinched yet, I will be taking a spare HD tube with me on tomorrows brum ride though Ive yet to put any ti bolts on the bike, still trying to justify shelling out 50 quid to save 50g on bolts, I need to find a ti bolt through rear skewer and maybe a hope ultralight front hub to shave another 150g off and take her to sub 9kg Its a 1085 wheebase so not super long, think the thinner tubing adds to the effect as you say.
  21. Pfft, kids of today, when I were a lad we all used these
  22. My old zoo boa used to run perfect tension on almost 385 chainstays, had to file the front edge of the drop out by a mm and it dropped right in, no tensioner or anything Only problem was that the gearing was 20/16 which is probably why I couldnt gap very well on it :$ Mind you that might be pretty sensible gearing for a 24"
  23. My thoughts aswell, I dont see the point on having what is effectively a very expensive single speed rigid bike and then twatting it as much as possible. I thnk I have 3 very minor brick scrapes on the bottom of my downtube where Ive slipped off walls but thats it.
  24. Extended montys again, although mine are PR bars extended 2" either side up to 31". I believe the rise and sweep of them is the same as the TIs but they are a slightly different shape - either way they are the most comfortable bars Ive ever used
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