forteh

Grrrrr, Im busy all day! Got the maggie on the back now and its down to 10.15kg woop Next time

You can get a litre of mineral oil for a couple of quid

I had a couple of sets but I stripped them down and gave the backings to someone, if the pad material is still intact and I can faind it then youre welcome to them

He said that about my chain tensioner aswell the pervert! Not got a photo of the springs but this is the mount edit: new photo added showing the springs (sorry for bad quality phone picture )

My home made tensioner is bolted directly to the frame through the mech hanger bolt (using an M4 countersunk allen screw so it doesnt rub on the freehub), it never moves and stays on the frame when you take the wheel out. No reason why you shouldnt be able to put a 74k one in the same place with a bit of fiddling with washers Looks something like this.... edit1: the actual spring bit isnt a spoke anymore, now got half a hacksaw blade bolted either side of the square aluminium block and a tyre lever taped between the 2 to make a leaf spring. edit2: oh yeah, chris king hub with shimano QR.

CP (commercially pure) titanium is about the same yield strength as 4130 chromoly, the triton frame is made from russian OT4 which is about 4% aluminium, 1.5% manganese. For reference the hope titanium bottom bracket spindle is 6al4v (6% aluminium, 4% vanadium) and has a yeild strengh of 1100Mpa whereas 4130 has a yield strength of 360Mpa. Ive not found a specific yield strength for OT4 but I reckon its about half way between the 2, the fact its as strong as or stronger than chromoly should mean that its not going to fail

I bought a titanium frame, no need to drill holes and stronger than aluminium

Couple of aluminium brackets, an old snapped tyre lever, a hacksaw blade snapped in half and a bit of pvc tape does the trick perfectly No pictures now but will get some later.

Surely a 12 turn double motor will shit all over that? Used to race for several years back in the 90s, still got my last car which is a yokomo ex-factory yz10 super dogfighter, also got a couple of really old school PB mini mustangs in bits in the shed My old schumacher cougar was timed at 35 odd mph at a meeting at castle coombe race track, wasnt quite so quick on the corners with me driving though

^^ What he said makes sense, there are wider based sprockets out there than the 5mm kingcog

Bear in mind that I think the HD option on chris kings generally only comes with the heavy duty axle, not necessarily the stainless driveshell aswell. Im not sure if the singlespeed hub has a stainless driveshell or not. I have an alloy driveshell on my ck with a 16t king kog and it does dig in alittle, just need to use a couple of chainwhips and a spare sprocket to get it off if it has dug in. You can always get the alloy driveshell and if it dies put a stainless one in there

Id go for the chameleon

I suspect the scoring on the outside of the piston is from the return spring, as long as it doesnt do the same to the cylinder bore then it should be fine How tight is the fit between the piston and locking ring? My only real concern would be the scoring on the piston potentially catching on the lock ring if it gets much worse - personally I would have considered some sort of plastic (nylon or HDPE) bearing ring inside of the lock ring, it would also help stop the piston twisting in the bore at larger extensions Are they any lower profile than maguras?

My fsa orbit extreme is pretty low stack height, its similar to this one but and older model, about 9 years old now and still going strong

What you want is a nice santacruz chameleon - does everything you want

^^ What he said, you can pick up a set of burns for 30-40 quid on here and they will last you forever

Whats the screw made from? If its a decent high tensile allen screw then good luck trying to drill it, if its a normal steel cheese screw used on bikes then you should be ok. If its an aluminium screw that magura used to use then you can probably fart it out of that hole Remember if you do decide to drill it, centre punch the snapped end of the screw first, use a small drill (about 2mm) and steadily drill the bolt out, its vital you get the hole bang in the middle otherwise you will bugger the threads and definitely need a helicoil - it is possible to reclaim the threads without helicoiling The moral of the story is you need to learn how to use an allen key

Nothing wrong with a streetride started from a common point That is assuming you can find a suitable location Been on a few supermoto rideouts based on the same format, all meet in north yorkshire on the friday, ride 300 miles over the yorkshire moors on sat/sun - stuff the bikes in vans and drive back home Camping is another option but with several thousand quids worth of bikes in an unsecured field its probably not such a good idea

A thought... Wherever the location of the ride, is it possible to find a local hostel/scout hut type place and rent it out for the friday/saturday night? That way people can travel on friday if theyre coming from a long way away, have a couple of beers on the night and get a full day riding on saturday instead of spending half the day travelling. Again drinks and bbq type affair on the saturday night then people can make their own way home on the sunday at their leisure. Maybe get some pallets and set up a small rig for the sunday morning. People sharing lifts from distant places is preferable, petrol is cheaper than trains in groups. Yes its still a bit crap for people who are working on saturday but it will give people the chance to actually ride It will take quite a bit of organising if someone decides to sort it out but the cost per person shouldnt be too high.

Ah the ignorance of yoof Middleburn do an excellent set of 5 bolt CD pattern square taper cranks, I happen to have a set on mt santcruz If you pick up a 2nd hand pair of middleburns then I think its about 25-30 quid for the 5 bolt spider to fit, means you can also use a middleburn trials bash in the future if you so desire. I have NEVER had a square taper crank round, I cant understand how people manage it Put some antisieze on the taper and bolt and tighten it up, I ususally do mine by standing on the end of the allen key (long allen key) whilst the brakes are held on. Working out that I weigh about 12 stone going through a 200mm long allen key thats about 150Nm torque on the bolts, possibly a bit high but they never come loose, strip or round

Probably a cracked ball in there, you should be able to feel a slight notch in the bearings when it goes click. If you can get the cranks off try turning the spindle by hand and it should be more apparant. Case of a new bottom bracket, get a shimano un53 strong, cheap and good bearings If its not the bottom bracket then its possible that its a pedal bearing broken up.

Your splitlink is on backwards, turn it round before it falls out

Phonelines to poland must be down I have no idea, pm your email address and Ill send em over

Try it, I reckon it would suit your bike better as you have shorter spokes that wont bend More modulation and power than your current setup too Wrong in sooooo many ways Have you tried the webspace link? Theyre only normal jpegs

Trip over the bars to faceplant/finger snap on the lock gate, think you were gaying off somewhere else