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Ups to front and gaps to front have always eluded me, could never get my head around how to do them 1st ride on the deema last night and stuff to front wheel just seemed to come naturally, I dont know whether its the weight or the geometry - more likely the geometry of the frame Having a well setup bike and geo make trials so much easier.

No selling in new members chat, suggest you edit your post, read the rules and dont try to sell your bike before youre validated

No real cones to come loose on a hope hub Check the hub is seated properly in the dropouts and that the frame isnt cracked somewhere in the back triangles, other than that stop having beasty legs or set the brake pads further out

When you have a grind, tar or a very soft pads on a smooth rim they do honk - its because of the pads vibrating in the housing. Some brakes are noisier than others, there are alot of different factors that affect it though. Because maguras are rim brakes they provide a more solid feeling hold when youre on one wheel with the brake locked, disks only hold the hub still so the spokes can flex a fair amount - on mods this isnt a problem but some people dont like it on stock where you have longer spokes to flex.

Tis in the post Im planning on rigging up my front caliper onto the back with the rear hose and lever from my santacruz, will give me some indication of how its going to work as DD. I can only run a 180 rotor max on the back, any bigger and it just catches the frame, will try it and see. Still in 2 minds between a mono trial and a BB7 for the rear, I love the feel, power and bite of the front hope - is the BB7 the same feel at the lever or is it spongier? Ive not tested it without the booster yet, will have an experiment with it tomorrow; agree with you though it looks much better without it (also means I would be able to purge the only deng thing on the bike )

Its built and has been ridden, its light, its flicky, its so damn easy to ride My only niggles are that the rear brake is too stiff with the 4 bolt control booster on and theres bugger all bite on the rear brake, going to test it with only 2 bolts through the booster to see how it goes. The chain tensioner needs some slight mods, mainly a shoe for the chain to run on, the plain spoke on its own has skipped off the chain a couple of times. Complete spec is: - Triton deema frame BT f6 fork FSA orbit xtreme headset with hope head doctor Atoms oversized stem Monty 221pr bars (extended by 100mm to 780 wide) ODI roughneck grips worn to paper thickness Wellgo MgTi pedals 165 Middleburn RS7s with heatsink cloud9 (18t) on a UN52 BB with a sram PC1 chain Home made chain tensioner Chris king disc go tech rear hub with 16t king cog laced into a tryall rim Highroller 2.5 in slow reezay dual ply with dh tube Hope xc font hub laced into a mavic xc717 rim Larsen TT 2.35 in super tacky single ply with standard tube HS33 slaves with RB ergo 1f lever, heatsink cnc reds, echo control booster and a water bleed Hope mono trial 203 disk with a +20 adaptor Complete weight 10.6kg or there abouts Alot of weight (about 300-400g I reckon) could be saved on the rear tyre and BB if I went down to a single ply and a hollow axle. Geo with BT f6 fork is: - WB 1080 BB +30 CS 385 Reach 670 Frame weight 1.585kg/3.487lb Homemade chain tensioner - 24g including all fixings edit: Shes now double disk and wearing the hope titanium BB Total weight of the bike is 10498g :) When the rear tyre dies I will put a schwalbe big betty on there and the weight should drop down to about 10.2kg All of this without cutting/drilling holes, fancy lightweight bolts or much else specifically lightweight (well apart from the frame, BB and pedals spindles which are titanium ) Excuse the crap phone photos

Well it built Rough guess on the bathroom scales is about 10.5kg, will get a proper weight of it tomorrow at work Off out for a play on it to see if my 22g chain tensioner falls apart Pictures later.

At the moment Im about 1 pallet lower on sidehops to the right against to the left. Will probably be able to get higher with more practise, only been trying them the wrong way a week or so

Its a pre 05 hs33 with evo mounts, not sure when the evo mounts were introduced over the old style with the metal taper elbows, perhaps someone can confirm. Basically all magura slave cylinders are identical between the models and years, its only the lever and the mounting system that have changed

Nothing bad happened on friday, I finished a load of drawing work that I needed to, drove to london, bought the triton frame from thechink, had a couple of beers, had great sex with the gf and slept really well The rest of the weekend continued in the same manner, about the only bad thing that happened was I had to wait till I got home at 11:30 on sunday night before I could start building the frame up

If I manage to put the frame through a tenth of that level of punishment Id be suprised, awesome video Im not concerned about using the maggie on the frame as I have a booster I can use, just want to try out DD at some point

Hmm yet everyone raves about the BB7? It was an old 2piece mini, not even a mono - still got it on the back of my santacruz. A mono trial in a decent size (200 not 160 lol) would eat that old brake; Im not sure the frame will even fit a 200 rotor, got to try it and check for clearance.

Pfft stop trying to piss on my bonfire, its a stock Im going to try DD to see what its like now that decent brakes have been invented, last time I tried anything trials with a rear disk it was a 160 hope mini and it fair sucked Will be keeping my maggie setup incase I dont like the disk on the back

Ive got an control booster I can put on whilst the maggie is fitted, DD will eliminate it though Im pissed off I have to work now, I should be building it lol

The scales rock, perfect for weighing bike bits Yeah its titanium, Im expecting the rear brake bosses to flex like a bitch but Im planning on putting a bb7 on the back

If youre referring to the finishline oils then in my experience the dry stuff is absolutely fine unless youre riding in very wet conditions, the wet oil is better for lubrication but can be messier if youre not careful. Dont use any of the motorbike chain wax sprays as they will just make an appalling mess of your bike Your best bet is to just pop down the road to two wheels in ambelcote and pick up some chain oil

Im right handed/footed and ride left foot forward but sidehop to the left Can sidehop to the right but not as high.

Got the frame off thechink on friday night and bugger me if it aint light Hopefully the it should all be built up tonight, depends if I can bodge togther a spoke chain tensioner at work today Will post more pictures, geometry and stuff when Ive finished.

Im running a dual ply high roller 2.5 in 40a slow reezay and its so unbelievably grippy; got a kenda dh tube in there and cant see it ever puncturing Ive used it at 8psi without a problem but it tended to squirm about a fair amount, tend to run 15-20psi now and I reckon I could use a normal tube in there without much hassle. As for maxxis compounds the are as follows: - 40a Slow reezay - very soft and sticky but wont last as long. 42a Super tacky - not as sticky but with reasonable life. 60a Maxxpro - hardest compound least grip. I had a 60a highroller on the back for 18 months and about half worn, it doesnt grip as well as the softer compounds when worn but when new it was pretty damn good. Single ply tyres are lighter but the sidewalls are much softer and more likely to pinch at low pressures, dual ply are a much more rigid carcass and give a bit more bounce

Our thermodynamics module was split between 2 different lecturers, one was welsh and very good, the other was pretty crap. Im not sure how but I got something like 80% in my 3rd year thermodynamics exam Our fluid and thermo were seperate modules and exams, I seemed to do better in the thermo for some reason. We werent expected to memorise tables of emperical data though. Good luck with the exam

Its near loughborough I think

Tryall if youre not a basher, dob if youre disk only and the weight of a ferret, echo if youre a basher Chris king if youre feeling rich, pro2 trials if youre feeling poor Personally I have tryall on a king and never had a problem with it.

You need a pair of hose clamps to hold the hose in a vice whilst you tap the barb in. Either buy the clamps for a couple of quid or make some from a block of wood To make them, drill a hole through the centre of a small block of wood (about 1" x 1" x 2"), the hole wants to be slightly smaller than the diameter of the hose. Cut the block in half so that you cut along the hole you just drilled and you should have a pair of halves that look like the picture Clamp the hose in the vice with about 5-10mm sticking out the top, lube the barb up with a spot of washing up liquid and gently tap it into the end of the tube. If you cut the hose nice and square with a sharp stanley knife it makes it alot easier to get it going in square. edit: Im just too slow in my old age

Pfft, theres always one

Get an RB lever and get a more powerfull brake as a bonus