forteh

I think the hope hoses are the same construction, just need to cut the hose cleanly

Diz, youre validated now, you dont need to only post in NMC

The feel of a steel frame, less weight and more strength than an aluminium frame = win! Its been built up for 2 days now and Ive only had the chance to ride it for 2 hours, not going to be able to ride now till monday night as Im moving my gf from london to lichfield tomorrow and off to bournemouth for a stag do on friday after work Gives my pulled bicep/forearm/elbow/tendons time to recover alittle I suppose

29 and 3 weeks if we're being pedantic

Generally tartybikes if Im buying new but to be honest most of my stuff I get off here 2nd hand

Working on that

Look in the bike pictures forum

Dont know about the avids but hopes are very easy to set assuming you have sufficient shims and your disk mounts arent twisted/warped; I believe the avids are easier to get the caliper central to the disk? The only time Ive had any problems with pad contamination is when a caliper has either leaked or some spilled oil from bleeding hasnt been cleaned up. Generally you can just burn the pads to get the oil out and clean the disk with thinners or alcohol, rebed it and its back to normal

Hopping forwards with the rear wheel locked, the forward momentum is provided by chucking your shoulders and hips about. Very useful on the edges of walls and uneven rocks where small, precise movements on the rear wheel are needed. Took me forever to figure out how to do them then one day it just snapped and its very easy now With practise you can lengthen boon gaps and ups, I can boon about 3 foot forwards but only about a foot vertically.

I know DAI very well, two wheels is a much better bike shop though Grew up in kinver so know the area very well, 90% of my bike custom (apart from trials specific stuff) goes to two wheels

It depends on your riding style, higher BB can help with balance on the rear wheel; however if you go too high it can restrict your ability on other moves. My old zoo! boa was about +5 BB, my hifi is +55 BB and my deema is +30 BB. The zoo! was ok, the hifi was awesome on the rear wheel it would just balance there but for tapping and ups to front or back wheel it just didnt feel right. The deema on the other hand feels perfect, it seems to be so well balanced between front and back, rolling pigeons are possible so are front to backs - both of which were difficult for me on the hifi There are people out there who can ride rediculously high BB (vincent and damon to name two) but I think general consensus of opinion is that +20 to +35 is optimum BB rise.

I noticed that when looking at your bike The brake at the moment is the same as how it was on the hifi when I had the control booster on - hold was ok but bugger all bite; the brake was awesome without a booster, just before I took it apart (bloody typical!) Ive taken the lower booster bolts out and it doesnt seem a great deal better, will try taking the booster off all together and see how it goes. I had presumed that the titanium being inherently more flexible than aluminium would go all over the place without a booster so fitted it. Im giving blood tonight so might not be able to get out to test it

Which? The ones that I screwed the BB into? Think youll find that because the frames been ridden a whole 2-3 hours the threads havent been worn in - they were very tight

Ive been riding pretty regularly again for the last couple of months and about the most offensive thing was being called jesus - something to do with the beard and curly hair I think :$ Im 29 now and dont really care what kids think about me riding in my advancing years

The only difference from the geo posted on the triton website is the BB rise is +30 instead of +20, thats all dependant on forks though - I was after a +30 BB anyways so its all good The length isnt too bad at all, Im only short and I dont feel stretched out on it. Its 15mm shorter wb than the hifi and 15mm longer reach and feels just right. Im really leaning towards a 180 mono trial on the rear, whilst the BB7 might be more powerful I like to feel when the back brake has bitten, also the hope would seem to give more modulation

Ups to front and gaps to front have always eluded me, could never get my head around how to do them 1st ride on the deema last night and stuff to front wheel just seemed to come naturally, I dont know whether its the weight or the geometry - more likely the geometry of the frame Having a well setup bike and geo make trials so much easier.

No selling in new members chat, suggest you edit your post, read the rules and dont try to sell your bike before youre validated

No real cones to come loose on a hope hub Check the hub is seated properly in the dropouts and that the frame isnt cracked somewhere in the back triangles, other than that stop having beasty legs or set the brake pads further out

When you have a grind, tar or a very soft pads on a smooth rim they do honk - its because of the pads vibrating in the housing. Some brakes are noisier than others, there are alot of different factors that affect it though. Because maguras are rim brakes they provide a more solid feeling hold when youre on one wheel with the brake locked, disks only hold the hub still so the spokes can flex a fair amount - on mods this isnt a problem but some people dont like it on stock where you have longer spokes to flex.

Tis in the post Im planning on rigging up my front caliper onto the back with the rear hose and lever from my santacruz, will give me some indication of how its going to work as DD. I can only run a 180 rotor max on the back, any bigger and it just catches the frame, will try it and see. Still in 2 minds between a mono trial and a BB7 for the rear, I love the feel, power and bite of the front hope - is the BB7 the same feel at the lever or is it spongier? Ive not tested it without the booster yet, will have an experiment with it tomorrow; agree with you though it looks much better without it (also means I would be able to purge the only deng thing on the bike )

Its built and has been ridden, its light, its flicky, its so damn easy to ride My only niggles are that the rear brake is too stiff with the 4 bolt control booster on and theres bugger all bite on the rear brake, going to test it with only 2 bolts through the booster to see how it goes. The chain tensioner needs some slight mods, mainly a shoe for the chain to run on, the plain spoke on its own has skipped off the chain a couple of times. Complete spec is: - Triton deema frame BT f6 fork FSA orbit xtreme headset with hope head doctor Atoms oversized stem Monty 221pr bars (extended by 100mm to 780 wide) ODI roughneck grips worn to paper thickness Wellgo MgTi pedals 165 Middleburn RS7s with heatsink cloud9 (18t) on a UN52 BB with a sram PC1 chain Home made chain tensioner Chris king disc go tech rear hub with 16t king cog laced into a tryall rim Highroller 2.5 in slow reezay dual ply with dh tube Hope xc font hub laced into a mavic xc717 rim Larsen TT 2.35 in super tacky single ply with standard tube HS33 slaves with RB ergo 1f lever, heatsink cnc reds, echo control booster and a water bleed Hope mono trial 203 disk with a +20 adaptor Complete weight 10.6kg or there abouts Alot of weight (about 300-400g I reckon) could be saved on the rear tyre and BB if I went down to a single ply and a hollow axle. Geo with BT f6 fork is: - WB 1080 BB +30 CS 385 Reach 670 Frame weight 1.585kg/3.487lb Homemade chain tensioner - 24g including all fixings edit: Shes now double disk and wearing the hope titanium BB Total weight of the bike is 10498g :) When the rear tyre dies I will put a schwalbe big betty on there and the weight should drop down to about 10.2kg All of this without cutting/drilling holes, fancy lightweight bolts or much else specifically lightweight (well apart from the frame, BB and pedals spindles which are titanium ) Excuse the crap phone photos

Well it built Rough guess on the bathroom scales is about 10.5kg, will get a proper weight of it tomorrow at work Off out for a play on it to see if my 22g chain tensioner falls apart Pictures later.

At the moment Im about 1 pallet lower on sidehops to the right against to the left. Will probably be able to get higher with more practise, only been trying them the wrong way a week or so

Its a pre 05 hs33 with evo mounts, not sure when the evo mounts were introduced over the old style with the metal taper elbows, perhaps someone can confirm. Basically all magura slave cylinders are identical between the models and years, its only the lever and the mounting system that have changed

Nothing bad happened on friday, I finished a load of drawing work that I needed to, drove to london, bought the triton frame from thechink, had a couple of beers, had great sex with the gf and slept really well The rest of the weekend continued in the same manner, about the only bad thing that happened was I had to wait till I got home at 11:30 on sunday night before I could start building the frame up