forteh

Pity that chromoly is only about 1% Cr

Mine woop

Not the case Im afraid, chromoly is only a low carbon steel with chromium and molybdemun alloying elements (amongst others) it will rust just as much as any other steel, albeit perhaps at a slightly reduced rate. Stainless steel has higher percentages of chromium and nickel which gives it higher corrosion resistance but also slightly lower strength. The current cost of stainless is astronomical compared to mild steel which reflects in the price, I would go for the 300

Ive still got a ging floating about somewhere

As above really Take time to learn to set them up, get a good working rim/pad combination and you will have an awesome brake. They need alittle maintenance and fiddling to keep them on top form though, occasionally you may need to reset them as the pads wear - I dont use the TPA at all as it just makes one pad move earlier (still never worked out why this happens ) so just reset the pads. 4 bolts mounts are stiffer and easier to set up, if you have canti bosses then youre probably better getting a decent V brake. The only times I bleed my magura is if I split a hose or need to split the hosing. If your tyre is soft enough then you can usually squash it with your fingers and squeeze it between the pads, if not just let it down

My 2p... My old zoo boa was light 1.8kg and was one of the old expensive deng frames, built up into a 23lb bike and it rocked - the whole sum of the cnc machining was absolutely nothing It cracked on the chainstay after 2 years of easy riding as I was still learning. My old hifi was 2.2kg - 400g heavier The quality of manufacture between the boa and the hifi is noticeable, the zoo is much neater and better constructed, the echo is sloppy in comparison (the triton is 200% better than either ) Im pleased to say that I have now managed to remove all deng parts from my bike Regarding the monty frames - the older design is in theory both stronger and stiffer than the kamel, triangulation = strength. Sure you might loose some standover height but for a comp bike extreme tuckage ability isnt really a prime concern. As you were

Ive had difficulties getting a syringe from my local chemist in the past Vets should be able to supply them though, another alternative are food basters

Stainless steel is typically no stronger than chromoly, the only advantage is that it wont rust and it will look shinier

A good release agent like plusgas will help, might take a few applications to get it free.

My helicoil kit had the correct size drill in there When tapping make sure the tap starts straight in the hole otherwise the bolt may not tighten up properly, in aluminium wind it in half to a full turn then back it off quarter turn or so until you feel the swarfe break up. Its best to lubricate the tap with some cutting fluid, if you dont have any then some oil will work as youre only cutting soft material - paraffin/kerosene is a good alternative, put it in a tub and occasionally brush some onto the tap as youre cutting. If the tap suddenly goes tight then do not force it, a snapped tap can be a right pigf**k to get out, they cant be drilled by normal means and you will probably need to get it spark eroded which can start to get megabucks Once you have tapped deep enough, blow any swarfe out the hole and use the insertion tool in the kit to put screw the helicoil into the fresh tapped hole. Generally once they are in you cant unscrew them, however if youre lucky you can grab the end with some pliers and pull them out. Screw it in until its just below the surface of the material then break off the tang on the bottom of the insert, jobs a good un Remember to use some copperslip on the thread when you put the bolt in, alot of the screws we use are stainless, as are most thread inserts - stainless/stainless threads can pick up and cold sieze. No screw threads should be put together dry anyways.

What he said ^^^ You will need the wheel built up to be able to do it though, otherwise you will have to figure out some way to stop the hub turning.

I think the hope hoses are the same construction, just need to cut the hose cleanly

Diz, youre validated now, you dont need to only post in NMC

The feel of a steel frame, less weight and more strength than an aluminium frame = win! Its been built up for 2 days now and Ive only had the chance to ride it for 2 hours, not going to be able to ride now till monday night as Im moving my gf from london to lichfield tomorrow and off to bournemouth for a stag do on friday after work Gives my pulled bicep/forearm/elbow/tendons time to recover alittle I suppose

29 and 3 weeks if we're being pedantic

Generally tartybikes if Im buying new but to be honest most of my stuff I get off here 2nd hand

Working on that

Look in the bike pictures forum

Dont know about the avids but hopes are very easy to set assuming you have sufficient shims and your disk mounts arent twisted/warped; I believe the avids are easier to get the caliper central to the disk? The only time Ive had any problems with pad contamination is when a caliper has either leaked or some spilled oil from bleeding hasnt been cleaned up. Generally you can just burn the pads to get the oil out and clean the disk with thinners or alcohol, rebed it and its back to normal

Hopping forwards with the rear wheel locked, the forward momentum is provided by chucking your shoulders and hips about. Very useful on the edges of walls and uneven rocks where small, precise movements on the rear wheel are needed. Took me forever to figure out how to do them then one day it just snapped and its very easy now With practise you can lengthen boon gaps and ups, I can boon about 3 foot forwards but only about a foot vertically.

I know DAI very well, two wheels is a much better bike shop though Grew up in kinver so know the area very well, 90% of my bike custom (apart from trials specific stuff) goes to two wheels

It depends on your riding style, higher BB can help with balance on the rear wheel; however if you go too high it can restrict your ability on other moves. My old zoo! boa was about +5 BB, my hifi is +55 BB and my deema is +30 BB. The zoo! was ok, the hifi was awesome on the rear wheel it would just balance there but for tapping and ups to front or back wheel it just didnt feel right. The deema on the other hand feels perfect, it seems to be so well balanced between front and back, rolling pigeons are possible so are front to backs - both of which were difficult for me on the hifi There are people out there who can ride rediculously high BB (vincent and damon to name two) but I think general consensus of opinion is that +20 to +35 is optimum BB rise.

I noticed that when looking at your bike The brake at the moment is the same as how it was on the hifi when I had the control booster on - hold was ok but bugger all bite; the brake was awesome without a booster, just before I took it apart (bloody typical!) Ive taken the lower booster bolts out and it doesnt seem a great deal better, will try taking the booster off all together and see how it goes. I had presumed that the titanium being inherently more flexible than aluminium would go all over the place without a booster so fitted it. Im giving blood tonight so might not be able to get out to test it

Which? The ones that I screwed the BB into? Think youll find that because the frames been ridden a whole 2-3 hours the threads havent been worn in - they were very tight

Ive been riding pretty regularly again for the last couple of months and about the most offensive thing was being called jesus - something to do with the beard and curly hair I think :$ Im 29 now and dont really care what kids think about me riding in my advancing years