nmt_oli

Maybe your halfords is bad- but the one i work at has a whole isle! Most shades your find on road cars are there in rattle cans, along with general purpose paints in a diff section. If you don't like the colours there, and there IS a good selection, they can mix some up if you have a colour code. Definately make sure the surface is roughed up nicely with medium wet and dry, then a couple of coats of primer, then couple of colour, then a few of laquer. leave 10-15 mins inbetween thin coats and at least an hour or so between primer, colour and colour and laquer. Leave the frame somewhere warm for 24 hours before building it up. If you want a really smooth finish, use more coats of paint, thinner coats, and in between each stage sand down with wet very fine wet and dry paper, before cleaning drying and continuing.

Sharky and george rules! Still got a yomega RBII and a Henrys Viper, amazing yo yos. Can still do splitting the atom after a couple of goes even now!

Sintered pads actually last longer. Yes, sintered pads increase heat build up in the brake, but you would really have to be giving it some to melt pistons! im sure you would boil the fluid off long before it got hot enough for that! In trials use you dont tend to get disks hot anyway as your not dragging them for long periods of time.

if your still using a tamiya mechanical speed control! get rid of that horid piece of ancient hitory right away! the tamiya ESC should be able to handle most mild motors form any company, and they sould still perform better than the tamiya one for the price.

Or go brushless- now that is FAST!!!!

Plan for sound system in golf sorted now, just need to get my arse in gear and get on with making it happen! Nicks old 10" sub in side enclosure so i can still use the boot. 5 and 6" components in custom built door pockets, one tweet in std dash speaker locations, other in door with the mids. No headunit, just my MP3 player plugged into a BOSS line driver/eqauliser. should be pretty nice! ~If anyone could give me some tips on fibreglassing that would be cool, as i would like to make the boot enclosure myself, but ive never fibreglassed before. I would buy one, but a ready made fibreglass enclosure is £180ish!!!!

If your handy with a dremel, and don't mind taking a risk with your engine there are many mods you can do to nitro engines, although you have to know what your doing. I have a HPI .15 enigne, which is an origonal fit engine that had a power out put of 0.6hp. i estimate its now running (well, was before i killed it) at 1hp+ ( i say estimate, as i dont have a dyno). I bored out the carb by 1mm then flowed, knifeedged and polished the crank, removing wieght to balance wieght removed from piston/conrod. The conrod was knife edged as well , and the bottom lip of the piston flared. I enlarged the ports on the piston and sleeve, and matched the crank case up to these. i also flowed the exaust manifold to match the port. This takes a lot of care to do, and risks your engine as its easy to do wrong, but gains so much power on a cheap engine. It takes it up to the standard of a high end novarossi engine in terms of port sizes, and component shapes. It seriously improved aceleration and power. dont bother with a boost bottle, or any thing advertised on ebay as nitrous or similar! and those superchargers use as much engine power as they make back. The easy way to get more speed is just to fit a bigger engine.

cool cool.

Sweet! i will keep a tab on ebay for the gauges with rev counter then. yeah, i don't mind a tatty lamp- just one of mine is smashed, so they were removed to get the car through MOT.

right, im in need of a pair of grille fog lights /driving lights for my Mk2, if anyones got any lying around, gimme a shout. the only ones i can find on ebay have a grille as well! Also, does anyone know if a GTI set of gauges (ie speed + rev instead on std speed + clock) will just plug in and work, or will i need to wire up the rev counter? ( i know the little computer thingy wont work without extra wiring)

Classic picture! Looks like hobit ticcy's been kicked down the room by bigman during the night lol!

I can't remember who does it, but im sure there a a couple of places that will ream out your headtube and bond a new ring in, bringing it back into shape. weather the frame is worth the cost of that i don't know. As has been said already, make sure your steerer is short enough, try putting another headset spacer in and tighten it all up just to be sure. look very closely to see if its the bearings loose in the cup, or the cup loose in the frame, as the solutions to these situations will be different. If the frame is flaired, it may be more cost effective to buy a cheap headset ( i bought a BMX one for £4 in halfords!!, wasnt too bas either, loose balls, easy to service. ) whack that in, and ride the frame with a wobble until it dies or the wobble gets too much for you to tolerate. Will save you wrecking your nice headset anyway. Might be worth trying a diff headest to make sure its not your headset thats playing up.

My mate has a 24" general Lee and ran 80mm old school marzocchi's on it, and it felt lush, as they were really stiff so just there to take the sting out of things really. As they were short it didnt muck stuff up really either.

If you follow the link at the end of the flash vid to the Lemon Demon website, you can download an mp3 track, prob will be a bit better quality! That is very cool, especially the music. downloading more stuff by them now!

Thought of setting up a voluntary donations thingy, just a link to paypal or something. i know it wont be much, but if a few people put a couple of quid in it might help out. Im on another forum that are trying to raise £500 for a 2nd server, as they keep crashing thier dedicated one lol- athough they do have a lot more users than here. There 70% there already, and have only been asking for a few weeks. Also- If it hasnt been noticed, the 'contact' and 'guidelines' links at the top of the forum are not working!

Last mass pompey ride i knew about was the last one i went on- and nick was there, but broke his toe half way through see you there nick, could be a bit of a squeeze in your room sat night! me you and bigman

My account = switched Couldn't resist lol.

At GCSE level, if you design a frame you would end up making it out of wood or something, this may sound stupid but its not, as your only making a prototype. There are ahuge variety of things you can do, but to get the best mark it has to be a solution to a good and BELEIVABLE problem. As i was into radio controlled cars at the time, i did a carry case at GCSE which held the Radio handset, tools, spares and even a fuel container with built in pump! got an A*. I have seen bike work stands, and bike tool sets that fit into a water bottle holder. these also got good marks. At A level i made a model hovercraft, its fecking awesome and a got an A. I think Derf on here is doing a chain tensioner. Basically think of something with your bike that anoys you, and make something to sort it out! Try not to do anything thats already been done lots, as while the examiners/teachers may not know a lot about biking it can be obvious. If you do 'copy' something make sure its very obscure! For example, that crank remover above- it looks like anyother crank remover so it shoudlnt have got the best grade (no offense to who did it, its well made). It just doesnt solve a problem, as there are plenty of crank tools that are fine.

In he hot state, when you release the pressure, vapour will form. yes there will be some pressure created by this, and the pads will be contacting the disk, but not with a lot of force- remember gas is compressible. when you pull the lever again you will just compress this vapour, but not put any substabtial force on the disk. this situation happens on extreme decents with oil, and is known as brake fade- but with water it will be more substantial, so if much more liekly to cause brake failure.

Ok, water can safely be used in maggies as regard to seals. In a disk brake i would only use water as a tempory measure- they feel much more snappy and positive than rim brakes anyway, so theres not that argument for the water. Water can be DANGEROUS in a disk brake, as if you ever get it the slightest bit hot (and its surprisingly easy to do) the water will vapoourise (temporarily), this will leave you with no brakes, and possibly damage the system due to a huge pressure build up inside the system. The worst thing is how quickly this can happen- if your going down a hill with the brake on and it is getting hot, the water will not vapourise until you release the lever as the pressure your are putting on the system prevents the water expanding into vapour, and hence the water heats up past its boilign point. as soon as you release the lever, pressure is reduced and you get vapour in the system leaving you with complete brake failure until the brake coold down- which will take a good 10 mins at least.

Ive used years old chains on my old MTBs, but on my trialsbikes they get replaced each new build, and usualy replaced fairly often anyway. i keep my chains clean and lubed so there always in good condition. Ive yet to snap a chain on a trials bike. I even used a hollow pin, punched link chain on my old trials bike for a while and didnt snap it! Ive had my current chain on my new bike since october, when it was built, an im not intending on replacing it soon as its big beefy and still looks like new, plus im not a harsh rider!

Mike, i think you may just have been unlucky. Yes you do need to machine a middleburn bash to run it nicely, as it is WIDE, i have already had some machined off the inside of my bash, and it still rubs. I have had no rust problems, nor any stiff links- - shortened it once to correct length, and joined with split link, so all joins are factory, and none were tight. Very odd. The chain is big, and i would trust it more than most- but i don't tend to worry about chains as i have only ever snapped a shimano chain! either i dont go big enough, or i just keep my chains in good nick!

I noticed a lot of you were putting donnie darko down, and i have it but hadnt seen it so ive just watched it. While it is now one of my favorite films, and very well made it is very odd, and made no sense until i did some research on google I need to watch the directors cut to see if the extra scenes help. Im tired and just thought id post that, as its the wierdest ending ive ever seen, dissapointing, but in a good way!

i have also noticed this when using FF on my lappy, while not a major problem, it is slightly anoying. might be worth sending them an email so they can included it in future versions, and its prob a simple bit of code that has been left out as its unlikely to be tested on laptops. I still have had no luck with mine, thinking about uninstalling and reinstalling!

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....71&hl=polishing Please use the search!