nmt_oli

you said it yourself- the aircraft doesnot move via the wheels, therefore if you let friction equal zero, then the plane isnt even connected to the conveyor, so it doesnt matter what the conveyor is doing. even if you let friction into the eqaution, it is very negligable. there is no wind, so the engines WILL be providing thust, the plane WILL move forwards. if the situation was a wind tunnel, and the air speed aroudn the plane increased as the thrust incresed, then the plane would remain stationary (but still take off). this IS NOT A CAR. a car would remain stationary on the conveyor, as it drives via the wheels. i repeat A PLANE DOES NOT SUPPLY POWER VIA WHEELS.

That statement is fundamentally wrong anyway- your saying the planes thrust is speed "the plane increases thrust, but the conveyor will increase speed in the opposite direction" for starters, these two things cant be equated like that, plus if you read my long explanation, the plane HAS to be moving for the conveyor to be moving, so there WILL be airflow over the wings.

Thank you endo freak!

Anzo- think! the conveyor wont be going the same way as the plane, still can't see how you worked that one out. also people- the plane wont stay stationary. SO: If the plane is stationary, the conveyor will be stopped. If the plane moves - note- the riddle is telling us the plane moves! - at 5 mph forward, the conveyor will run at 5mph backwards, the wheels of the plane will be spinning at 10mph. That is assuming no friction, if you take into account friction, it still works a similar way, but more comlicated to explain. So- the plane is being driven forwards by its engines, which work by thrusting air, nothing to do with the wheels, so it will still move, and accelerate, and eventually take off.

correct!

yes it will, as planes are driven by thrust, not the wheels, so the conveyor will get faster and faster, but the plane will still move and take off.

but, if your stupidly good- but let yourslef look shit for a couple of matches, then play really good, you will own people, whether youd get back what you lost by looking shit, i dunno.

how the hell do you round off a torx bolt! there desinged to stop that lol! they must have been some really bad quality bolts. I prefer torx bolts on disk rotors, i know i can tighten them up a lot without risk of rounding out the head, and also knowin il be able to get it undone again!

Dont bother with superglue, it will jsut split again under pressure. imagine being on the rear wheel on a ledge or something, the hose splits again and you loose the brake! could be painful. don't mess, the split will just get bigger, buy a new hose. Don't forget to use new olives when installing it!

Good advise given! while an old design, and more geared to jumping than trials in terms of geometry, shooters were very popular, and i still think are a very good begginer frame. they are inbetween a normal MTB and a full on trials specific frame, giving you time to adjust. Learn the basics on the shooter, and you will be well set up for the future. Only uprgrade the frame if you brake it or it is really holding you back as had been said.

I didnt think the frame affected rotor size! you wouldnt be able to change rotor size without changing the caliper or adding a braket anyway. Give the m4 a go, its a love hate thing. I ran a rear E4 (old version of M4) 185mm on the back of my saracen, and i really liked it, especially the modulation. i found it just didnt quite have the hold and bite of a maggie. Im running a simple maggy, with plaz pads on ceramic rim, and find it perfect, only slightly lacking on modulation, but i think that will get better the more i use it. i didnt like a grind and sticky pads though, too on off for me. I think rear brake choice is very personal, try it and see- jsut remember a rear disk on a trials bike puts a lot of stress on the frame.

Thart would be much better left as "French men ride Koxx" a popular one atm, "steel is real" also the classic "go big or go home"

If youve never touched an apollo and its been ridden regualary, it will need a good once over to get it feeling good again. On the brakes front: make sure pads are lined up and hit the rim square- if they hit at an angle, this can cause mushyness at the lever. make sure brake arms are free to move. take the inner cable out of the outer cable, clean, and lube to get smooth cable action (or fit new cables and lube when fitting). To make sure you get the most from the brakes, clean the pads and rim- pad might need replacing/ resurfacing. make sure all pivot points are lubed with a squirt of GT85 or similar- does wonders! - also a good quick fix on sticky cables. On the crank: If it feels wierd, it may be loose and therefore most likely worn. Check it is tight, if it was loose, try riding it after tighning it- but it will prbably come loose again quickly. if htis happens, replace crank arm. Apollos don't use cartridge BB's liek most bikes, they use cup and cone style axles, these can be serviced easily with the right tools, and strip clean and regrease followed by tightnign to the correct amount will make it feel like new. Its much simpler to replace with a cartridge BB however.

Fred, where are you thinking? i say afon kurb/ledge, cityhall/playhouse sloped kurb! plenty on interesting ones. up for it on friday? ill film! (i dont have a camera though, bring yours lol)

As mentioned, either file away the frame dropouts (make sure its the same each side, other wise the wheel will not go in straight, or file/grind flat spots on the axle. i think flatting the axle would be better, as you could use the wheel in frames designed for 14mm and 10mm axles, and you wont wreck your frame if you ever change the wheel!

You will need a torx driver in either T20 or T25 size, cant remember which one magura uses, but there the only two ive come accross with disk sizes. You can get them in allen key form, screwdriver form, or attachments for ratchets. Its worth getting one to fit, rather than just borrowing one, as youl have it for future use.

Salisbury crew- lets beast out some lines at Afon! Hoep youl ride it again fred- despite cracking your head open couple of weeks ago . i suppose that line won't count though, as it includes a bike rail lol!

Ive just had a look- and while they offer a good range, not all are machined, some are still cast OE replacements, and there the same price, which at $22 i think is very expensive (about £15 still). Mech hangers are cheap to make, they should not be being sold for such rediculous prices! I bought my no-name jump frame brand new for £80, yes its £15 for a replacement hanger- thats 1/5th of the price of the frame!!!

Putting a dab of copper grease on the threads when you replace them wont hurt either- should stop future siezure.

He hasnt specified yet- which is why i asked, as there is the standard one, the new pro one, the super pro one, then various machined ones from the likes of leeson lol!

Freds is the Super Pro- so super pro 16t Ti = 74mm Standard pro gaurd ~ 105/106mm

I was thinking of that, i may be going home on friday night anyway- in which case i can get a lift with fred straight from salisbury.

That toothed truvative one is very good, but may need a section cut out to clear other than truvative cranks. I have one for sale with a section cut, and otherwise good condition if interested.

Hopefully ill pop along if i can grab a lift, no working car atm . Im in soton, my bikes in salisbury, hmmm!

That particular one is very common, various carrera models, saracen MAD 2003, some rebock frames, along with Hardcore DSVD and similar 'unbranded' frames all use this hanger- in fact all the ones ive listed there use the exact same weld on drop out straight out of a taiwanese frame builders catalogue! Its amazing the fact that its so hard/expensive to get hold of one, ive seen frames sell on ebay with this hanger for less than it costs to replace the hanger via halfords!.