nmt_oli

Good to see youve got some progress nick! At least you have pics of who took your bike, i don't even have that. if you want to borrow any of my spare bits, just shout. you need something to ride. Dont mean to say i told you so, but i did say get a bigger lock. After my bikes got nicked in soton, and i had my new trials bike in my room i actually locked it to the radiator just in case, and so uni staff couldnt remove it if they did a random room search.

looks like i should be able to come.

Just to let you know, don't be put off just because it says bikehut on the side. they are not made by halfords, but FOR halfords. Halfords grips are made by VELO for example, it is all good stuff.

feck me sideways, some good tricks there that i havent seen before. Absolutely mad. Oli

that is one MINT system! I can't wait to see how my golf turns out, bit of a mismatch of things ove got lying around, but will be a great sounding system for the cash. MP3 playey- no headunit Boss equaliser/line driver (half DIN dash mount) JBL 4 chan amp mutant 4chan amp mutant 2chan amp (yes, there cheap, but they work pretty well and i already have them!) Infinity 13cm and 16.5cm comps (all in front doors, and all off jbl amp) JBL 4x6s in stock rear locations, just for a bit of rear fill to balance it and for passengers (plus some music off my current HU until i get this all in) pair of unbranded 17cm Midbass drivers, in custom rear stealth shelf. 10" JBL sub should be pretty nice, very punchy, nicely balanced if i can set the levels well.

the thing is, it hasnt changed that much! its got a fat rear tyre, front thin tyre, its got high bars, it got small chainring and bashplate, its most certainly a mod. Ok, components have been improved and geometry tweaked, but its certainly recogniseable as a mod trials bike!

I have to say, I hope you included the fresh products tensioner in you 'similar product evaluation' section, and made a bloody good job of changing it enough, as its far to similar in my opinion. I’m not saying it won’t work well, but im saying you won’t get as good a mark as if you had come up with a completely original idea. I haven’t really had any probs with my fresh, so i don’t think there’s much to improve. making the slot smaller actually makes it less adjustable, so not as good in my opinion! to me it looks like you’ve also just used the wheel from the fresh, and not used your own- again that wont help with marks! sorry to be critical, I just don’t like people being lazy when my A level DT project was a scratch built radio controlled hovercraft- didn’t copy anything, just trial and error!

I would recomend you buy a kit and build it, as when it goes wrong (and it WILL go wrong) you will know what broken and how to fix it. A lot of 'RTR' (ready to run) models aernt as ready to run as they should be. often screws are loose, ect.

Hmm, would love another pompey ride but really need to do paintwork on my grandparents car, as its the only chance i got before i go skiing, and i promised them ages ago . i will come along if i can, but don't think i will be able to.

http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/ Only really has little things, but theres a lot on there you can sift through, and will surely help you out, even if only a little. As people have said, cut down as much as possible, and plan. if you have any credit cards- cut them up - NOW, don't be tempted to load them up anymore! Get yourself a couple of bank accounts (one current, one savings - even if you dont use it for a while), with online banking so you can esily see what your moneys doing throughout the month. Try and pay for everything by cash- it allows you to see how much money your spending. Also, how old are you? I don't know what your qualifications are like or whatever, but you could try appliing for uni/college and get a student loan with it. use the student loan to pay off the depts. the student loan is VERY low interest, and doesnt have to be paid off until you earn over a certain amount. Admittedly, its not ethically right, but it might get you out of the mess your in. you would however have to attend a course of some kind throught this- just pick a dos one, and youl be able to work most of the time too.

A head unit and those 6x9s will work- but it wont be loud and it wont sound good. heres a little introduction, to help newbies like you out: 1) The Brands: as has been said- don't just go by brand, sony have jumped on the ICE bandwagon, but the quality of there in car stuff is nowhere near that of there home entertainment, or that of lesser brands who are specific for car audio. You can buy some sony speakers that cant take as much power, are worse build quality, and look worse than speakers costing half the price! Some good brands to look at would be, IMO, Headunits- alpine, pioneer Speakers/subs- JBL / Infinity are great for the price Amps - JBL again are pretty much unbeatable for the price, alpine also make great amps. 2) The Figures: manufacturers want you to buy there products, so they will make them look as good as possible and say there really good, even if there not. Any power figure that has a MAX after it is a lie, don't even look at it! You want to find the RMS (root mean squared) values, these represent the true power output/handling of equipment. you want the RMS output of the Headunit/amp to be as close as possible to the higher end of the RMS range on the speakers, if not above- its better for an amp to be lazy, than to try and be working too hard as this will end up sending clipped signals (ie distortion) through the system, and it will overheat. Headunits typically put out between 20-30w RMS. If you find a head unit genuinly pushing more than 30W RMS over 4 channels i will be VERY impressed, and also worried as the power wires feeding the headunit will not be big enough! Don't believe me? most head units have a 15 amp (or less) built in fuse, so at most they can be using 15 amps of current. Power = Current x Voltage, so lets work this out! Power = 15A x 13.5V (typical voltage of car when running) Power = 202.5W Divide this by 4 channels and you have your magical claimed 50W per channel, however- not all the power used by the unit is outputted to the speakers. Electrical devices will never be 100% efficient, and a headunit (unlike an amplifier) also has other things to do as well as amplify the signal. so, when you take into account that only 60% of that, if your lucky, will go to the speakers then you get 30W. So then, headunits are only really suitable for powering factory speakers (what there designed for) and they will do that much better than the factory stereo as they will produce a cleaner signal. A headunit mated to factory speakers, where the desinger has actually thought about the placement of the speakers can sound really quite good, especially if there factory components. 3)Buying In Stages: First buy the best headunit you can afford, with at least 2 amplifier outputs, and run it through the factory system. notice the difference. Next, upgrade the front speakers to good quality components amplified OR if your car is relatively new and has ok speakers already, add a sub. Now see what you think for a while After that, do whichever of the two above you didnt do. Notice the difference again. Now you have a good headunit, good front speakers amplified, and a sub. It should, if correctly set up, sound very good. Do you really need to do any more? Probably not, however, if you do think about what you want. Not bassy enough? Then add another sub. Not loud enough? Are you amps utilising your speakers properly? If not, upgrade the amps. If they are- start doubling up on things, eg. 2 sets of speakers in the front. Alot of people learn this the hard way, stick to the guide above. If you do too much at once you wont hear what has changed. until you know what things change what- don't jump straight in. 4) System Set Up: Ok, it seems a lot of people are coming round and realising slapping 6x9s on the rear shelf is not the best idea- however some people still think its great, mainly because its easy to do and you get better speakers than the factory ones. If you are going to to it, do it properly. 6x9s in a reinforced shelf (mdf instead of factory papier mache) amped up will provide a lot of base, especially if you box them up. However, this will draw the soundstage back, especially if nothing has been done to the front speakers. If you also have amped front components, and turn the treble up on those, and remove the top end from the 6x9s you will have an economical and good sounding system without the need for sub. Remember, rear speakers are for passengers, not you! You want enjoy your sounds, dont spend money for the sake of you passengers. Most aftermarket speakers have input power ranges from 5W RMS up to about 100W RMS. Below 5W, the speaker wont do anything- not enough magnetic flux change to move the cone. Above 100W, either the cone will move to far (sound flappy) or the wires in the speakers coil will burn out. Any where inbetween just adjusts the volume. So, once you have your head unit in, and you start upgrading your speakers remember there power handling range will be higher ( by a fair amount) than the cars factory speakers. this means you wont be able to play music as loud, but the sound quality will be improved as you have better speakers. This is why we need amplifiers. Don't be scared by amplifiers, the only tricky bit to installing them is running wires through the car. Hopefully that will answer a lot of questions, if you still have more, give me a shout.

The K750i isnt quite as robust as something like an old nokia, so it will be mroe suseptable to damge from the wet. Its also a possibility that it cant find the sim as the circuit that detects the sim is permanantly broken.

Nick, just get a pro II! Surely you also have a choice of 2 hubs right now? And also- your axle was fine when i serviced it- when it started skipping is prob when it snapped (unless your talking abotu your new HD axled hub). Also- wheres the option for 0

All the council/lanowner need do is place clear signs they are not responsable for any personal injury! yes i have researched into this, as we were tryign to get a bmx track/skate park built locally and its one of the points the local council argued about.

A tennis ball soaked in gt 85, lit and thrown is also hilarious- but watch out for tents! (those who were at nass 05 will know what im talkign about!) When it bounces, you get a lovely fireball!.

I have sold to gaz (in amoungst others) 4x 130mm long x 15mm wide bangers. these, when a traffic cone is placed over one, will blow the traffic cone into the air- a little bit more that a 'pop' i think youl find!

BMXers (the ones who actually care abotu there bikes) have been using them for a few years over my way. Very brittle though- many multicoloured spokes around the skatepark shows off that fact very nicely! for the money, its not worth it in terms of weight. Stick to SS spokes / brass nipples and get a lighter hub/rim/tyre.

I think the BBC wants to do something abotu it becuase they offer free entry to museums and the like. If a kid wins one, its more than just a badge to wear- it lets them do stuff. If every parent can buy one on the internet to save money getting there kid into stuff, places wont let badge holders in which defys the point of them to an extent. It is hard to call, as there will be badge collectors who wont use them ect.

-your name Oli Lewis -your location Salisbury, Wiltshire -your age 19 -your opinion/ view on the subject, which you can write as much as you want about! smile.gif In your opiniony bit, you might want to consider.... -Do people stop and watch you riding? -Do they say anything? good / bad? -Do you think we are 'naughty/bad' people for riding in pedestrianized like areas? -What makes you want to ride in these areas? -Apart from all the 'telling off' you probably get.... does anybody say "wow, thats good!"? etc etc you get the idea... This is a good question. I have seen public responses vary from applause and amazement, through inquisitive right to very pissed off/angry calling the police. I don’t think there’s one way the public feels, it all depends what they are doing at that time. Pretty much anyone likes watching extreme sports- but people don't tend like it if you nearly ride into them, ride on there property ect. This is an understandable response, and we should be responsible enough to accept that, apologise and move on. If this happens, they don’t usually mind too much, and were seen as nice considerate people. Unfortunately, sometimes riders get a bit mouthy and talk back/argue. This just annoys the person in question, and may get the riders into more trouble, as well as making us look bad. Unfortunately the general public image of young people riding bikes will tend towards bad behaved yobs, if only due to the chavs in this world riding around on £50 bikes shouting at people. The more extreme sports groups can show they are reasonable and responsible, the more respect from the public they will get. On the damage front, yes this is a problem. If you ride/skate anything there is a risk of damaging it. Unfortunately, councils/planners/builders are very very good at constructing objects which are ideal for extreme sports purposes; these will always- no matter how hard people try- attract riders/skaters and eventually get damaged. If more construction companies teamed up with professionals from sport it would make life easier. For example there is a school in the states that was designed by a BMXer, every bench, ledge, flower bed, wall ect was ridable- t was like a tony hawk/matt hoffman level. Implementing things like this would help on many levels. Objects would be constructed to withstand the abuse, to damage would no longer be a problem. If there are plenty in a city, it would disperse riders/skaters more, causing less hassle for the public (and free up skate parks often overloaded with stoned chavs trying to steal your bike). it would show that sports like this are becoming accepted by society, and the publics attitude might be influenced by this. Overall, the publics immediate reaction is based on there mood, and how you approach them/deal with the situation. The general public’s wider view is dependant on many factors.

No its not ash! until a couple of weeks ago i was running 20:15, then nick gave me a 16t sprocket, so i am now running 20:16. it is better, but i dont think i would like to go much lower. i like harsh gearing for some reason.

I say go black, the centres of my black steels have been painted black and it looks much better than silver, my car is also a similar colour (dark grey). Now i just need to find the colout code so i can get rid of my rusty bits!

Sold to gaz, offering full asking price.

pm sent gaz, joe, including pic. Anyone else want the price list

I think ive still got a load, i would sell em- but wont mail em, pick up only!

Bigman here is right, this is what i put in a post a couple of days ago when someone asked about bleeding there maggie disk with water: Water can be DANGEROUS in a disk brake, as if you ever get it the slightest bit hot (and its surprisingly easy to do) the water will vapoourise (temporarily), this will leave you with no brakes, and possibly damage the system.. The worst thing is how quickly this can happen- if your going down a hill with the brake on and it is getting hot, the water will not vapourise until you release the lever. This is because the pressure your are putting on the system prevents the water expanding into vapour, and hence the water heats up past its boiling point. As soon as you release the lever, pressure is reduced and you get vapour in the system leaving you with complete brake failure until the brake cools down- which will take a good 10 mins at least. Its really not that hard to find dot 5 brake fluid, just go into halfords/petrol station/garage/motor factors and buy some. It will be much better in the long run.