nmt_oli

Whick version? Theres the old and new 5 bolt ones, for 22/20t rings, and theres also the 16t Titanium ring/gaurd. which are you after?

Got some pics uploaded- took a while as they are full on 6mp straight from friends digi SLR- had to resize. will get more soon. Uncovered NMT: Wheelie! Mini in the car park My favorite RC picture EVER!

I know heli enignes are desinged for more torque- but a heli enigne is used in one big monster truck (can;t remember what its called now) and that puts out aound 4.5hp, but doesnt rev as high. mentally loud.

I wouldnt suggest doing a track day on knackered tyres, you owuldn have as much fun due to reduced grip when you wear htem through, and you risk a blow out, not to mention you wont be able to drive home with your illegal tyres! Its worth getting a spare set of wheels from a scrapy, even if its crappy steels, either to use on the track, or on the way home.

Thats a low figure for .50 heli engine! My ofna 8port .21 is up near 3hp!! hmm, the noise that makes at 30k rpm is MENTAL! found some wiked pictures just uploading to photobucket now. were taken the end of summer, when i rebuilt my NMT with .15. lovely handling, and stabel in the air. alos a pic of my tamiya. Credit to all pics goes to John Fry, FryFilm Productions.

Ohh! will need to dig up pictures from my hayday lol! List of whats on my shelf of RC goodness lol! HPI Savage 1/8th off road monster truck. I won this, was well pleased! havent used it much, needs a rebuild to find out whats broken, think ive snapped a shaft (stuck in RWD). Also have a very nice ofna 8port race engine that needs a rebuild as it appears ot have an airleak to go in, will be very nice with this. HPI NMT 1/10th stadium truck 4wd- .21 conversion, this is a pile of pieces really. The .21 really overpowers it, so very high maintence, but VERY fun. HPI NMT- i have one runnign as well, nice list of parts, just an os15cvx in this. HPI NRS4- 1/10th onroad tourer. this is also in need of a rebuild, was going to slap a .21 in there and make a fun carpark drift car. Schumacher Club 10- electric stadium truck, 2wd. this was good fun, but needs spares which are hard to find as its not made anymore- the brushless electric motor kinda killed the diff! Tamiya TL01 electric 4wd tourer- Got this off Tic, was standard. Now fully hopped up, about twice as fast, and a good laugh. a bit narrow though, tends to catch mid drift and roll. Classic Tamiya Sand Rover. very old 2wd, still have orig radio gear and runnign gear (except battery). still runs bt isnt in great condition, so unfortunately isnt worth much. Kyosho mini z - 1/18th mini tourer, 2wd. Great fun, good for tkaign on holiday, fun to drift around the airport departure lounge lol! custom RC hovercraft- this was my A level DT project, 3 chan radio gear, independant lift/propulsion/steering. very hard to get the hang of. ned ot fabricate a rear bumper, the rudders are a bit fragile (balsa wood). serioulsy fast though, surprised everyone at school, especially my DT teachers. Will find some pics!

Hpi pro II by any chance? maybe we should have an RC car thread lol.

Remove it from the device list, download some drivers, reinstall and point windows installation wizard to the new drivers

Clean koolstops on a clean smooth rim with a well set up brake, and mabe a very slight amount of tar on one side would be fine. i had bad luck with a grind a magura blacks and koolstops- a very sore ass can testify to that, and the wear rate was less than impressive.

If you have cool web search you WILL need cool web shredder to get rid of it!

Yep

Thats the funniest thing ive read on here for along time!

Maguras own is very good, and good value for money- but it is not covered, so you need ot protect your frame.

Actually, that is a (leeson modified)C2 rotor, and if you look at old hope manuals, they say put the rotor on that way round for C2, and all the old brakes. Its only when they brought out the mini that they changed it.

ah yes, ff02, sorry! its beena couple of years since i was properly in ot the th RC scene.any way, its a lot shorter than the TL01. My tl01 rocks any way, fully hoppedup - Sealed bearings, oil filed dampers, lightweight chasis kit, carbon prop shaft, hollow lay shafts, adjustable turnbuckles, 13t race motor, 3000mah cells, deans low-loss conectors, motor heat sink. Damn awesome fun, just the motor gets so hot, it melted the solder holding the wire on should let it cool down inbetween battery packs on a hot day lol! My nitros were the best though- fully custom .21 HPI NMT (hence my user name! goes back a long way) stupidly fast, only the 3rd .21 conversion in the country when built (its desgned for small block .12/.15)

wrong! the two shells tamiya do are 1/8th and 1/10th scale. there 1/10th scale is desinged for there FF01 chasis, which is consierably shorter (hence the wheelbase problem), and the 1/8th shell is a wierd 210mm wide, so wont fit my 170mm(might be 180, cant remember) wide TL01- but might have a chance with my 1/10th nitro that is 200mm wide- still a aslight wheelbase problem on that if i remember rightly. plus, it is VERY hard to get hold of that shell, and VERY expensive (ie £35 for a piece of clear plastic, instead of the usual £15-£20)

the wheel base and width is all wrong on that chassis though its the one bad thing about the Tamiya TL01 chassis, its got the same wheel base (give or take a few mm) as most 1/10th tourers, but is much narrower! Basically, it would just look wrong. Ive got a 1/10th nitro in peices that i was going to modify into just RWD (instead of 4WD) and plonk a big .21 engine in and put a classic mini shell on as a fun drift car. i ust have no time for my RCs right now, they all need somehting done to them!

Im afraid its the closest i could get to a mini shell for that car- i have been looking for a proper mini shell for ages, but as te only 2 that exist are true to scale, it is either far to wide for that car, or the wheel base is wrong plus the bini is a nice ce in its own right. btw, its broken right now anyway

Indeed- leave well alone, the bank willdemand the money back and youl be -£4000 and with no bike. I hadsome guy try to do it with a £150 RC car i had on ebay, he was nigerian and i couldnt even understand him on the phone, was a load of bull anyway, left it alone, didnt seem worth the hassle. that thing about getting an email offering you to keep money safe for someone is also likely to be a scam, ive hada couple of those go through my junk mail folder.

If your getting a whole shaft, and not just the boot, that does sound a reasnoble quote.

Just got home for the weekend- so heres my room at home! Plenty of interesting things in there! Look out for: Radio controlled car collection A level DT project (RC hovercraft) around bed surround sound single matress on double bed! (got the bed free a few weeks ago, but the matress was dead, and can't afford a new one right now, single atm, so no problem really Various bike related objects- posters, marzocchi box Crazy tie

yeah- Cool Web Search- google it, there is a special program some guy wrote just to remove this. i had it and it crippled my old computer, took a week to get it sorted. unfortunately, the guy got fed up of rewriting the uninstaller every month to keep it up to date with the new versions of CWS, so it may not work if you have a new version. i think the program is called cool web shredder or something. good luck! Also, to stop programs running (making them unshutdownable) boot up in safe mode, then run antivrius/adware.

I think ive still got that book in my loft lol! unless it actually sold at the last carboot sale We had say no never go as well.

It is indeed the newest one- april lol! march 06 (with the yellow clubby) and december 02(with the red race minus)!!!! retro mag lol are underneath.

Nicks right, every car is different! even the same model of the same age will have small differences when it comes to work like this, just because of the way its been used! If the cars been driven by an old granny to go shopping, its liekly to have seen a lot less miles, so less wear on parts, and less dirt on stuff underneath, so its going to be much easier to do a job like this than on a car that does high motorway milage in the winter (all that salt and road grime is soo horrible to cars!). In the case of a mini, nick is speaking from experience as he has done the job himself, and don't say hes not competent becuase hes not a mechanic- i expect he could do it faster and better than a lot of general (ie non mini specialist) mechanics, as he knows so much about the car! I would say 3 hours is a good estimate, considering that in general you have to remove the wheel, the brake assembly, the wheel hub, and then the drive shaft, replace the boot and then reasemble. giving that bolts are likely to be rusty/siezed, it can wildly vary in time!