Greetings

Typical German work, neat, practical and I don't like it. Wouldn't mind one of these though, they've implemented some really interesting ideas. EDIT: oh and that Syntace frame is even more interesting, they've got a valve in the bottom tube with which you can apparently adjust how the frame feels - by creating a vaccum it becomes more springy and works harder.

um, who told you that nonsense? i'm pretty sure the xtp are lighter, if not, Triton can make you a 1,5kg frame from some kind of special tubing. Really no point in getting a light frame, the difference in durability and rigidness is huge whereas the extra 200g doesn't really help. Well, if it does then you're probably fully pro and already have sponsorship. Just get a normal frame.

It is bad, it's VERY bad. That's actually the easiest way to destroy the threads in your frame. I'm not going to give any advice on this matter seeing as 16 hours ago I completely destroyed a bb and a brand new frame. Just don't ride it until you find a solution.

Yep, the echo is 128 which is ok for my current setup but it takes ages to set the brake up so the cranks don't hit it. And that FSA you posted Robin would be great but I can see little thread will actually be in the frame Can't believe nobody makes 68/73 mm bb's in 135mm width

That's lovely, looks just perfect without any flashy parts. Would love to ride one of these bikes one day

Yeah, you're right Side by side comparison, from the truvativ web: Dammit! EDIT: Can I get a 135 or wider ISIS bb?

That'd be for a 23" wheel at a guess Click

Nah, I'd be using Tensile UCI cranks but by the looks of things I can't. That's really strange, what's the difference between isis and the spline used in this bb? Thanks for pointing that out.

It would be great to see a video of CLS riding this bike putting the old and the new together.

That's the one. Wondering if it's any good for trials, it's only got 2 bearings instead of the usual 4 that GigaPipe bb's have. Also, the axle looks fairly "shallow" if you know what I mean, meaning you might not be able to tighten your cranks properly. It does however come in 136 and 148mm form which is why I'd like to get one. Wondering if any of you have used this bb or come across it, maybe some of you freeriders have them in your full sus bikes? Also, will I be able to mount it with a normal XTR bb tool? Thanks...

Couldn't really be arsed to colour-coordinate my bike, it's totally random. Using fluo-green, pink black and silver. Looks horrible, couldn't care really.

But there are quite a few people in NMC who deserve to get validated. About the spelling though, I would presume that somebody with a spelling problem would try quite hard to spell correctly, unlike somebody who just couldn't be arsed. And if such a person can't make an effort and write a legit post, why should 10 other members make an effort and reply to the topic?

i'd get the monsterboy, liking the idea of +80mm bb rise actually i would never spend that much money on a bike

The project has reached a brief standstill, my hub still hasn't been sent to me although I was expecting it today I am however collecting my new stock frame tomorrow morning so this will allow me to work on the Adamant and have a bike to ride at the same time. About time, f**ked 2 threads in the Maggie mounts today . Also been thinking about how to mount the adaptor and I'm going to have a bet with my dad and do it his way. Will be much neater! What still needs to be done: -Have a thin bashring made -Get hold of a 18T freewheel, 12T screw on sprocket and a Team stem -Have my 221Ti bars extended to 740mm -Mount the adaptor to the frame -Check when the hub has arrived if everything fits as planned -Get the wheel built -RIDE!!!! Really excited about all this, also very motivated with the support from you guys. Should have everything running by the end of next week if I get hold of a freewheel!

You need to accelerate your body forwards before pedalkicking. My tip is to engage the freewheel/freehub before you step on the pedal, if you're new to trials you probably don't do that yet. Start with tiny gaps like 3-4ft, when you're on the edge press the bike down very hard and do a small pedalkick jumping upwards and forwards. That's how I see it, although it's hard to explain. Learned it from the august18 TRA movie

I don't want to go around saying that in 2 years time you probably won't want to hear about your girlfriend so I'll put it this way. There are certain stages in our lives, when your a kid you should watch loads of cartoons, have your mum help you eat and wash, be excited about getting a box of crap for xmas. But when you're 40, you should already have a wife, a job, kid etc. Seriously, moving in with one's girlfriend at the age of 18 isn't the best idea. While others will be partying, having casual sex in their back yard, doing stupid stuff they will solemnly regret 10 years later, you'll be working, footing electricity bills and all that. Besides, I'm pretty sure that if you moved in with her, you'd soon find her dreadfully annoying. Fact.

Geo sounds good, looks are great, wouldn't mind one of these frames What a posh house!

Haha thought that was photoshopped with a Tarty logo added to it Really good idea, might get one of those.

Roughly how often do you buy a new frame a)0-6 months How much do you spend on a frame £100-£150 Is a custom geometry important a)Yes Do you prefer frames to be handmade a)Yes (well, I guess 90% of trials frames are handmade) Which of the following is most important to you when buying a frame Quality of build Would you buy from a newly started company a)Yes NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!! Would you prefer a frame to be cheaper or have added extras(I.E different drop-outs, integral booster) Extras, like an integrated booster

My mate made one using a v-brake spring, worked well Edit: dude above me, is that a Mielec?

That's it for the time being, need my new wheel to be able to do the rest. 1st time I've done something in aluminum, it's sooo easy to work on! EDIT: Ok, definitely the end for today. Basically what I have done up till now was to space the mount correctly so the holes are in the right place for a 160mm rotor. The adaptor has the right shape for the frame, neither the welds nor tubing get in the way. What I have left for tomorrow is to think of a way to fix it to the frame. I will definitely be drilling one hole in the dropout and working out some kind of brace system to mount it to the top tube on the chainstays. My dad who's an engineer wants to bet me as much as the frame is worth that it won't snap if I just secure the adaptor to the dropout with 2 screws and the hub funbolt. Not sure I want to go for such a deal, even I do get the money back I won't be able to buy one of these beasts any more. More in a few days.

Ok, so here's the story. I'm changing frames to something a bit more user-friendly soon, but also want to build up a mod for under 120 quid. Since I'm not into short mods any more, I'd have to buy a Deng frame (instead of a Monty which I can get cheap) = lots of $$$ which I don't want to spend. I've got tonnes of Monty stuff at home, and soon a spare frame, being the A1 So instead of buying a mod frame which will cost me money, I have thought of using the A1 frame to build up a mod. Now this does complicate matters a bit, but only a bit. Final geometry of the bike will be: Wheelbase: 1062mm BB rise: +50mm Chainstays: 372mm Gear ratio: 18:12 hopefully without any need of chain tensioning The geometry is almost identical to a Python, but longer. So the bike will have a mod feel to it, with a cockpit only slightly longer than in other mod frames. The stem be changed to an Echo Team or 130x20 Try-All and the bars to 740mm 221Ti's making the riding position a bit more friendly. Looking at this idea, one would ask a few questions: how will the brake work, will the chain line be ok, will the tyre clearance be alright, and what rear hub will be used. -The chain line is my biggest problem as it will probably mean getting a narrower bb and this will stretch my budget by at least 30 quid - from now on I don't want to spend a penny. -The tyre clearance is fine, even with the 2.6" Eagle Claw I will be using. -I will also be using a 110mm spaced disc hub which is on it's way to me. This is also how I will resolve the brake problem - the bike will be dual disc, accomodating a 160mm Mono Trial on a 15mm thick PA6 disc adaptor mounted on the inside of the frame (this will also compensate for the missing 15 out of 25mm of the hub). All together, much easier than making some kind of adaptors for an HS33 brake. Here are some pics of the bike provisionally put together. I have ridden it a bit just doing some spins without the chain and brakes and it feels great. And the block of aluminum that will soon be a brake mount. The wheel put on the frame is random, new one will be built up within a week.

Get it over and done with dude, and good luck! Fingers crossed

An Echo Team I had back in 2004, loved it. Can't really say that about any other bikes I had.