DAB

BMX chains are weaker than normal 8 speed chains, THATS IF YOU RUN MTB COGS.. the reason is that the bmx chains have longer pins because the plates need to be further apart the fit a thick sprocket that bmx's use, when you fit them on to a mtb sprocket, the pin bends under the pressure that trials put on them and then they fail... the smaller the pin, the less likly it is to bend... and chains normaly brake at the pin where they fail and pop out of the plate because they bend, then you end up in a hole and in pain

There not cheating you need to use to front wheel when you want go higher.. ie 4 foot or higher

Buy a ROHLOFF S-L-T99 TRIAL... £30... the best chain on the planet.... you no when to change it when the rollers start to crack.... takes anywhere from 1-3 years been using them for over 5 years now and touch wood never had one snap on me yet If not do the norm.. lube it and look after it.. if you not using a rohloff, change it every 6 months to be on the safe side.. be warned though.. even if you change it every 6 months it might still snap... I used to use shimano chains (got given then for free) and i snapped 2 in 1 week.... then again they could last the 6 months

The one thing you might not be told is you need to use the pedals and a small kick once you lift the front wheel so you can get the back wheel up in a straight line otherwise you can end up hopping backwards the best thing to do is get the lift dialed first

Leeson boosters are made to fit leeson frames... and i mean fit leeson frames as in when you phone to order one they take the frame number and make it to the bike!!!!!! I own a leeson and have upgraded from the carbon booster to the six point booster, and it's made to fit... as for the rotor, the cut outs are made to head the disc quicker and make a better bite.. the down side is that the cutouts can wear down the pads faster.. but who cares very good rotors..

If you read my profile info it,s got my birthday on it ........ but i still look 18 so fair enough

Who gives a f%&k......... it's not what you wear, it,s whats you do

Been riding for almost 10 years, and i'm 28 now and still going strong....... Go out and have some funn

Grips are very personal, and what is good for you, everyonr else might hate..... the only way to no what grip is best for you is try grips!!!!! sound silly, buts its the only way... the only thing that i well say is, yes you will get sore hands and try gloves

Well it might sound a bit strange..... but as often as possible and on whatever!!!!! you always need to practice the moves that your not good at.... natural/rocks is the best stuff to learn on as it's all uneven and gets you very fit and helps with the balance

I no about 7 people with a mhz thats and they all have dented there down tube, but are still going... but on the ghz, i've ridden one, and main difference i found is that it's allot more evenly balanced (meaning it's allot easy'r to pick up off the front end) and feel allot more controlled.. almost like the leeson. (well clive did do the prototype)..

Well i am coming up for the big 1....0

I think the right way to put it is, the better your technique, the more power you can use And not all power comes from strength F#ck me that almost sound like wisdom

Get the set up right and they can be snappy as hell!!! but there in lies the problem, as sometimes they don't modulate very well the other problem is that some of them use a floating caliper (as in it's mounted on two pins with rubber shim's and not bolted to the fork) and the shims b#gger up well quick..

More that likely not.... the best way to decontaminate the rotor is to bin it and by a new rotor and pads!!!! if you don't want to do that, the first thing to do is get new pads, (as most of the contamination is in the pads) and put rotor on a cooker hob and heat it up so you you burn the grease and oil out of it (because the grease and oil penetrates the metal when it gets hot through riding) then let it cool naturally (so don't put it under the cold tap or it will warp) then when cool, use a wire wheel to clean the rotor and refit..... 90% of the time it won't work and the new pads you bought will be f#cked again, then it's new pads and rotor time anyway... so save time and just buy new pads and rotor, it's not worth all the f#cking about

The word your missing is "TURBO"..... it's not very "TURBO" to put you hand in your pocket and get an allen key out, now is it?????? HS11 are budget brakes and if you want more power go for the HS33, (larger master piston and ally body/lever blade) and if you can get them get the 04's, as i've seen nothing but problems with the new 05's No point just buying just levers unless your only buying one!! as a pair of levers costs as much as a complete set of brakes

Without power you have no technique, and without technique you can't get power You have to have both, theres no way to do a big gap with out a good technique, but you still need power to pull it off!!! what i'm talking about really is you need technique to control the power.. one of the hardest moves is rockring to back wheel.. you need loads of power and a sharp technique, you can't pick one or the other You bring up the wheeliehop, thats a technique used to get over large gaps and make it look really easy.. i use it all the time and know loads of people that can't do it because they can't get the timing right why????????? because they don't have the power or the technique Simple.

1000 Green ones made...

They were black with gold lever blades on the 04 brakes to match the shimano lx gold range they did in 03/04.. which was black with gold bits..

I hate to repeat my self but i've been a bike mechanic for over 12 years and was there when the a-head set was first used, and your stem is what holds the head set together and the star nut is only there to pull it together till you tighten the stem, FACT if you stem won't hold the headset tight, there's something wrong with it. The only exception is the head-lock system which goes through the steerer and clamps the whole thing tight, but weighs allot...

I can pop over and sort it out for you if you ask.....

Eddy did the design of the 26mhz and it was a very street felling bike and he is a bmx'r that rode trials, and when the 26ghz was designed it was mat who did the work and he's more of a natral rider so the geom reflicts that. the prototype was like the leeson.... The main change (apart from the geom) was no more week down tube......

They were called FROGS and came with a mouse mat like the magura whites.. they were nice

Been riding 9 years and i can almost side hop 4ft on a good day, and i go to the right and i've only hit the mec about 3-4 times the reason why!!!! because i don't think about hitting the mec!!! the more you think about something going wrong, the more likely it will go wrong. When you look at what happens when someones doing a big side hop and miss, they don't land on the mec first, normally when you get it wrong the mec is lest of you worrys, you land on the pedal or scrape it up the wall and go head fist over it and scratch the sh#t out of your forks just ride, and if you hit the mec.. o well, sh#t happens O and watch this........ If you land on a ss chain device it can still bend and damage the frame.. it may be more out of the way but it can still be hit.... and yes i've seen it happen, the long walk of shame as some mouthy tw#t uses the classic line "gears are for quear's i've never hit my chain device" then procedes to do a side hop and get it wrong Just ride

thats ok! your new check the search....