weirdoku Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 So I just got a 221pr frame but the headtube is a bit longer than my lynx, which I cut down my trialtech forks down for. Problem is cos the monty headtube is longer my forks don't reach near the top of the stem, maybe just under under half actually. And cos the trialtech forks have the one piece top caps, the top cap wont reach the forks! I don't want to smash a startnut into the steerer tube threads. So I was wondering if anyone here is able to make a steerer tube extension that screws on to the steerer threads on one end, and the top cap screws into the extension on the other end? Would be a great help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I'm running a star nut in my Trialtechs so I could run a pimpy top-cap, and it's not damaged the threads EDIT: Ali made an extension for his set too - used an old set of Trialtech forks, cut the top threaded bit off the steerer and used part of an old top-cap to thread it into the top of the old steerer. Probably not the ideal solution for most people though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walker Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 If it's a chromo steerer then yes. I'm currently running a set of extended Monty 231 forks. The extension is made from a bored out piece of round bar as an insert with a step in it and welded round the edge before being ground flush. It's then pin welded in 4 places. Its important to get a good penetration on the weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 So I just got a 221pr frame but the headtube is a bit longer than my lynx, which I cut down my trialtech forks down for. If it's a chromo steerer then yes. 'fraid not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Dark Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 you could make an extension on a lathe relatively easily.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 There a few sensible options you can take here: - Use a star-nut, and a longer bolt. - Run a thinner headset, so more of the forks poke out of the top. - Pick a stem with a smaller stack height, so you top-cap has more chance of reaching. - Buy new forks. - Change back to your Lynx frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 There a few sensible options you can take here: - Use a star-nut, and a longer bolt. - Run a thinner headset, so more of the forks poke out of the top. - Pick a stem with a smaller stack height, so you top-cap has more chance of reaching. - Buy new forks. - Change back to your Lynx frame. Thing with that is that you still ideally need your steerer to be level with your top steerer clamp bolt. If it's not, it's a bit sketch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycholist Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 If you can find details on the thread dimensions in the existing steerer you may be able to get an engineering company to make an insert you can screw into the current fork - use some serious thread lock on it though... Another option is to sell the old forks to someone who can use them and buy a new fork to go with your new frame... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 If you can find details on the thread dimensions in the existing steerer you may be able to get an engineering company to make an insert you can screw into the current fork - use some serious thread lock on it though... Another option is to sell the old forks to someone who can use them and buy a new fork to go with your new frame... I don't think you need to locktite it, 'cos like with Ali's when you tighten the headset up it'll make it all self-tightening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Ali made an extension for his set too - used an old set of Trialtech forks, cut the top threaded bit off the steerer and used part of an old top-cap to thread it into the top of the old steerer. Probably not the ideal solution for most people though... Explain this in more detail please. I'm really intrested in how this worked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 He basically trimmed his actual steerer down and squared it off. Then, he cut part of the threaded steerer section of some Trialtech forks that he had lying around down (so he basically had another bit of threaded steerer seperate). He cut the head off a normal threaded Trialtech top cap (so the threads were the right size/pitch for both bits of steerer). He then locktited the cut down bit of topcap into the seperate piece of steerer, then tightened that bit itself into his proper set of forks. It meant that he had a longer steerer tube, which he could still use a Trialtech topcap with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris4stars Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 (edited) just putting it out there...im wondering how many people have had the same problem?! i know id prefer a little more steerer tube to clamp my stem too... is it a viable option for tarty to perhaps develop one of these? there could be a number of ways to create a universal part and then trim it down for each persons order maybe something along the lines on a bmx footpeg setup on an adapted specialised star nut...or as someone suggested, a lathed extention? ive no idea how varied internal threads on steerer coloumns are, but it could be an idea... edit* looking at marks post...something like that too! im sure somewhere can produce essentially large diameter headless bolts... Edited January 19, 2010 by chris4stars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al_Fel Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 just putting it out there...im wondering how many people have had the same problem?! i know id prefer a little more steerer tube to clamp my stem too... is it a viable option for tarty to perhaps develop one of these? there could be a number of ways to create a universal part and then trim it down for each persons order maybe something along the lines on a bmx footpeg setup on an adapted specialised star nut...or as someone suggested, a lathed extention? ive no idea how varied internal threads on steerer coloumns are, but it could be an idea... Yes but when someone dies from ripping the top of their forks off Tartybikes would get the blame. The best thing to do is have the right length steerer in the first place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Got a local industrial estate? Round our one there's a fair few metal worker places, should easily be able to weld on another bit of steerer, or make you one up on a lathe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walker Posted January 19, 2010 Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 'fraid not. yeah fair point, missed that first tima around for some reason. Just read it quickly cos i was at the end of my break at work. Some people dont spend every minute of their day on this forum. But thats what you can do with a steel steerer, should anyone else need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weirdoku Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 I was hoping someone here could make me one I don't have the tools myself and neither does uni, well they have the lathes but not the taps for the threads. At the moment I've bodged 3 bolts into the steerer (not permanently) and the top cap bolt wedges inbetween the 3 bolts Might just have to get a longer bolt and smash a starnut in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Some people dont spend every minute of their day on this forum. They certainly don't, or they would get their P45 in the post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 yeah, I extended my steerer, only by 10mm or so. The only problem was that the extra bit I put on didn't go on exactly right, it was slightly offset (like the drillings were slightly different in each steerer) but a file quickly solved that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 yeah fair point, missed that first tima around for some reason. Pity you missed it I guess, could've made more use of your valuable break time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filo Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 you can machine up a bit of alloy and weld it on,then machine it down to 1 1/8th.then you can tap a hole in the end and not use a star nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 you can machine up a bit of alloy and weld it on,then machine it down to 1 1/8th.then you can tap a hole in the end and not use a star nut. Could just turn it down before you weld it . Have done a few of these recently and did exactly the same as lado above said, im sure if you took em round to a local engineering firm they'd be more than happy to help you . Cheers, Josh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filo Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Could just turn it down before you weld it . Have done a few of these recently and did exactly the same as lado above said, im sure if you took em round to a local engineering firm they'd be more than happy to help you . Cheers, Josh. you could but if you weld it not square then your steer tube would be out,also if your maching down were you welded it wouldnt be hard to machine the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Trying out the star nut option I take it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Leech Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 (edited) you could but if you weld it not square then your steer tube would be out,also if your maching down were you welded it wouldnt be hard to machine the rest. Not hard to get the insert square pal, just make it a push-in fit and 9 times out of 10, it sets itself, if not, a square and flat plate do the job just fine. Try fitting a set of forks into a lathe matey, dosent work, make the insert first, chamfer the edges, push it in, weld it up, clean it up, job done. Just thought also, if your working with trialtech forks, why not just make the insert with the same thread as the fork? Will tighten up as you tighten the headset, no welding involved, sorted. Josh. EDIT- oh, and if you weld it on the piss, you're a dumbass anyways, not difficult to see a bit of bar on the piss. Edited January 22, 2010 by Rob Leech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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