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Struggling with pedal-ups


hezzay

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So I've been having a go at pedal ups the last couple of days and I have a question. Perhaps I'm taking this to be a tad too scientific but what the hell.

I wonder, what is the ideal distance to the object you're trying to get on? Is there an easy way of finding out besides trying out different distances?

The thing is, I'm having trouble getting consistent results. I can get up to object at about 60/70cm, but only 50% of the time.

Any and all tips are welcome!

Thanks.

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The distance... I just kinda wing it, my highest pedal-up is like 1 meter so I'm not good at all, but a tip I could give you is that you have to imitate the movement you'd do as if you were doing a pedal-kick right when you are doing the last bit of the pedal-stroke for the pedal-up. Then just tuck the bike in front of you and hope for the best!

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First off, I am useless at pedal-ups!

But the ideal distance would be just enough so you can pedal half a revolution, since that is what a pedal-up is.

Maybe if you're useless at them you should refrain from giving advice on them?

Clearly you're not going to leave the floor at the same point for a kerb as you are a 4ft wall, because you've got to account for the forward motion while you're in the air, regardless of the amount of crank turns.

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From my experience, the leaving is a lot earlier than you first think! (not crazy amounts though, just slightly)

Going at it as close as the move allows DOES get you up there but, when your rear wheel hits the wall, you usually end up too leaned backwards which might be causing your inconsistency.

Leaving earlier should mean you gain a lot more forward momentum which, should help carry you on top of the wall once your rear wheel hits.

Hope this help! good luck :)

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Actually I'm not sick of hearing 'Practise practise practise' because I love being on my bike, and falling off just the same! ;)

Thing is, there are so few riders in my direct surroundings. The closest rider is about an hours drive away and he's always busy. I'm pretty much appointed to youtube, you guys and myself.

I'll take some videos later and post them here. Maybe that'll help identifying the issue, if there is any!

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The key idea is to choose the distance so that you can go approx. 1.5 crank revolutions in total.

You should start with your good foot at somewhere around 10-11 o'clock. You can do this with your bad foot in this position, doing only

one revolution, but it will be harder, with the benefit of requiring less space.

Start with 1.5 revolutions, if you can do well above a meter in height, start practicing the shorter inrun.

Do it like the pros, standing still, balancing by moving the front wheel only, somewhat crouched position, pedal preloaded, good foot forward.

Practice this position until you can comfortably balance that way, and reach a good stable straight start position with very few corrections.

Thereby you can position yourself, do a few corrections without tiring your good leg out, and do the pedal-up.

The pedal preload determines where you start. Find a combination that works for you in terms of balance and endurance in your legs,

minimum disturbance when accelerating from the standstill and good acceleration.

Keep this pedal position and change your starting distance to the obstacle depending on its height. There will not be so much difference,

perhaps 50 centimeters in distance for a height from 0,7 to 1,3 meters.

A stick on the ground will help you sorting out other varying effects in the jumps while varying the distance.

Thereby, the distance controls the angle of the jump: If you get the distance right and are comfortable with the jump itself,

the right distance will make you do the move in the right angle. You have found the right distance when you don't have to stretch forward

to reach the edge of the obstacle during landing, and when you don't have the feeling that you have to get the front wheel up fast to avoid

a collision with the edge, for example by emphasizing throwing yourself back and pedaling very hard.

Both height and precision come from moving your body over the back wheel and to the handlebars during front wheel liftoff.

By moving yourself over the rear wheel, you can lift your front wheel slower (something which is necessary to be said to most people who start to practice this move),

which is good for a controlled jump.

With your weight over the back wheel, you have a longer distance to accelerate towards the bars, thereby jumping higher.

Perhaps you could practice lifting the front wheel into a desired position near the upper edge of the obstacle while you stay over the rear wheel, i.e.

without doing the actual jump, but getting a feeling for the balance actions required in this position.

More precision can be achieved by keeping the handlebars close to your chest during the tuck-in phase, i.e. your elbows should be bent almost 90 degrees while

you move the bike upwards. The bike should feel close and controllable.

All of what I described can be seen in the first 10 seconds in this vid:

Edited by stirlingpowers
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