goanywhere Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 is a 16~13 gear ratio any good for normal stock?? curantly running 22~16 but thats more street Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Try 18~15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 is a 16~13 gear ratio any good for normal stock?? curantly running 22~16 but thats more street Ive been running 16:13 on my limey 4 for the past few months and ive been really getting on with it, I say go for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goanywhere Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 great stuff. would you say its on the stiff side or slackish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Filo Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 16:13 18:15 22:18 These gearings are all similar to each other. Just be aware, going the smaller sprockets puts a lot more load on your chain. Make sure your chain line is perfect when going this ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials hoe Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Ive been running 16:13 on my limey 4 for the past few months and ive been really getting on with it, I say go for it. Ffw setup? Was looking into this for the 24 16-12, but all the 16t fw on tarty say to run on the rear or they'll die pretty quick. No issues with chain length either? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 No issues with chain length either? Do you mean in terms of where the rear wheel needs to sit in the dropouts? If so then as the ratio is so close to 18-15 a quick check of my chainstay length chart shows the suitable stay lengths are almost exactly the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials hoe Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Do you mean in terms of where the rear wheel needs to sit in the dropouts? If so then as the ratio is so close to 18-15 a quick check of my chainstay length chart shows the suitable stay lengths are almost exactly the same Halfway there then haha 16t fw with some balls is needed, tarty seem a bit dubious about sticking them on yhe front though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted January 13, 2014 Report Share Posted January 13, 2014 Pro 2 or King required then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 I used to use 16:13, I found it to be perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted January 14, 2014 Report Share Posted January 14, 2014 (edited) great stuff. would you say its on the stiff side or slackish? It is quite stiff, but I have always used lighter gear ratios than most people. its weird jumping on the 24" street bike and having an easier ratio. need to sort that out! Ffw setup? Was looking into this for the 24 16-12, but all the 16t fw on tarty say to run on the rear or they'll die pretty quick. No issues with chain length either? No pro 2. cant understand why people are using front free wheels and complaining every 3 months that its died, but my last pro 2 saw 7 years! so much better. As for chain stay length, on my limey the wheel is right at the end of the dropout, which I am happy with as the longer chainstays help with gaps, but more importantly, the dropout is well supported and less likely to break as there is a bolt increasing stiffness after a dodgy sidehop. Cheers, Ash Edited January 14, 2014 by Ash-Kennard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted January 15, 2014 Report Share Posted January 15, 2014 cant understand why people are using front free wheels and complaining every 3 months that its diedFFW offers far better weight distribution, as it keeps more weight central to the bike. The die every 3 months because they have too many fecking EPs these days. I had a Tensile 60 click that lasted for 4 years and never skipped, because I serviced it every 6 months or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 FFW offers far better weight distribution, as it keeps more weight central to the bike. The die every 3 months because they have too many fecking EPs these days. I had a Tensile 60 click that lasted for 4 years and never skipped, because I serviced it every 6 months or so. Yes muel. I've had my tensile 60 click for nearly 3 years now, and it's never missed a beat. I've had an echo sl inbetween, that lasted 3 months and ive always gone back to my trusty old tensile. I wouldn't hesitate in buying another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 On the contrary, I've had a load of Tensile 60's, each bedded in properly and they shat themselves after 4 weeks. Best ffw I've had was my old SL, lasted 2 years with no skips or issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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