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rear wheel moving...


ogre

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when i ride for continued periods my back wheel will move in my dropouts (horizontal dropouts) i have echo steel notched cams, they can put the wheel in a position that is right, but it always manages to move, and i have to adjust every half hour or so, is there anything that can be done? i've tried threadloc, greasing inside the bolt collar. i'm running these collars thinking the serrated bit might help but i can still wiggle my wheel free with a bit of beefing about.... my axle isn't so long that exceeds the dropout either. usually when i come to adjust it one cam won't even be touching the bolt it's supposed to. my dropouts look fine too, they aren't chewed up and dogged by any stretch.

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i think the hub is moving backwards though =/ would longer bolts let me clamp the wheel better? i wondered about putting some gnurled washers between my wheel and frame...

If you have smooth hub washers then adding some serrated washers will deffo help

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Can depend on what snail cams you're running. If you don't have to move your chain far back it may worth getting some smaller cams. Also, check you've got the cams on the right way. Can make a real big difference if you've them on the wrong way around.

What is "the right way"? I've just bought these and didn't quite know, which way to mount them (bolts outside).

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Wasn't there a similar topic a while back? Sure it was jakes because mod...was that not due to a cracked cs, had a look for any?

Or serrated washers either side of the dropouts might fix it, if it's just a case of hub slippage in the dropouts. I've noticed dropouts aren't perfectly square, so if you tighen one side up with the opposite bolt spun way out you can end up with a wonky wheel, even after you set it up straight with cams.

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Does your wheel move ?

Haven't tried it yet. I just thought that there was a "right" and a "wrong" way to mount the snails and I didn't know which was which. That's why I asked.

I have to mount the snails ouside because my Because Simple has 135mm dropouts. I have a Hope Trials hub with the strong bolts. Thant should work.... have to build up the bike still.

Edited by niconj
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it should work, you can be my guinea pig :D . if anyone having the same problem wants a try out, measure the centers of the allen bolt and axle when your wheel is in its normal riding position and pm me :)

I do have a better adjustable design, but I don't have the equiptment to make them... need a machinists help ;)

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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yes that would work, but it reallt cant beat the snail cam with an added grove done by yourself, it only takes a round file and a vice, so easy to do.

you can also turn it over and make a new slot if you chain stretches.

but just by a kmc zx 610 chain which doesn't really stretch at all. also why to people insist on running the chain so f**king tight that you can hear the freewheel crying out in pain??

also that method hes using relies on the skills of the person making it to get it accurate

Edited by dave33
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