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Snail Cams vs Integrated Tensioners


AlexClare94

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In my past trials experience chain tensioners and snail cams have been much of a trial and error for me, now I see a few frames e.g. GU, Echo and Onza using integrated tensioners. At the moment am looking into the. GU but it puts me off buying other decent frames that need snail cams as I know nothing about them or how to set them up or anything of the matter :/ any experiences or knowledge on using them?

Cheers Alex

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Personally, snail cams are a lot easier.

They are very easy to use and make setting up fairly easy.

Getting exact setting is easier with intergrated tensioners. But they come with there own problems too.

Both my integrated tensions have rounded, then bent. Then snapped. Just causing it to be a pain really. (I have a Neon x-ray, probably one of the more problematic integrated systems i have found)

Obviously snail cams ar not faultless. But they are less of a fuss i find

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Personally, snail cams are a lot easier.

They are very easy to use and make setting up fairly easy.

Getting exact setting is easier with intergrated tensioners. But they come with there own problems too.

Both my integrated tensions have rounded, then bent. Then snapped. Just causing it to be a pain really. (I have a Neon x-ray, probably one of the more problematic integrated systems i have found)

Obviously snail cams ar not faultless. But they are less of a fuss i find

There are so many different types of snail cams though aren't they? Do some work better than others? I've heard that the GU's integrated tensioners are pretty decent?

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Gu echo and czar are the same system as they are all made by deng, i had trouble with mine on my echo pure because when i tightend the wheel back up theu moved. By the way you shouldnt change frame just because of the tensioning system. Also a lot of people prefere intergrated tensioners.

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Do you read your posts before you submit them?

I like tensioners because they hold your wheel from slipping any further into the dropout perfectly, I had issues with some movement with snail cams. A lot of people get on with cams though so my setup was probably shit. Tensioners make getting your wheel in and out a bit of a pain unless you remove your crank.

Tensioner bolts can be quite easy to break/bend/round if you aren't careful.

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Do you read your posts before you submit them?

I like tensioners because they hold your wheel from slipping any further into the dropout perfectly, I had issues with some movement with snail cams. A lot of people get on with cams though so my setup was probably shit. Tensioners make getting your wheel in and out a bit of a pain unless you remove your crank.

Tensioner bolts can be quite easy to break/bend/round if you aren't careful.

It just worries me a bit with being over in France, like if anything breaks or doesn't work as I'd of hoped then its a pain in the arse, so I want to really get this bike over here without worrying about facing any major problems if you get me?

I do want to try out these new integrated tensioners, but if I did opt for a frame that needed snail cams and if I could never set them up right it would be a pain.

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It just worries me a bit with being over in France, like if anything breaks or doesn't work as I'd of hoped then its a pain in the arse, so I want to really get this bike over here without worrying about facing any major problems if you get me?

I do want to try out these new integrated tensioners, but if I did opt for a frame that needed snail cams and if I could never set them up right it would be a pain.

Good hub and good cams will probably be more reliable. I got on with Echo TR cams the most, however I've been given a set of flawless bikes ones that don't seem too bad.

Sounds weird but don't tighten your hub bolts up too much, only tight enough. As deformation of the dropouts is the most annoying thing when trying to get a wheel in straight in my experience.

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Good hub and good cams will probably be more reliable. I got on with Echo TR cams the most, however I've been given a set of flawless bikes ones that don't seem too bad.

Sounds weird but don't tighten your hub bolts up too much, only tight enough. As deformation of the dropouts is the most annoying thing when trying to get a wheel in straight in my experience.

yeah it happened a lot when i first started, and i had those chain tugs on an Onza t pro and they snapped the first day i bought the bike haha. if I'm careful with the tensioner bolts with they be okay? or last longer? and if they do snap are they easy to replace or is that covered on warranty?

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yeah it happened a lot when i first started, and i had those chain tugs on an Onza t pro and they snapped the first day i bought the bike haha. if I'm careful with the tensioner bolts with they be okay? or last longer? and if they do snap are they easy to replace or is that covered on warranty?

To replace they're just really long grub screw or any long bolt will work so easy to replace. Mine have lasted 7 months still going strong and that's the deng ones. Same as the ones on gu

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I would say, that as a hobbyist it does not matter

Both systems has their pros and cons, but companies use them because both system work.

I prefer the snail cams, as I just like the ease to push 2 stuff rather than tweak bolts. but both system do their work as simple as possible. Snail cams looks really interesting until you set one up, then you realise they are as easy and simple as the integrated one

long story short: just order it, every part has its fault, and unless you get comp rated extreme light stuff and put heavy use on them, you should have not got any extraordinary (apart from usual wearing and breakings)

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I have had loads of snail cams and crushed a lot of them seem to move wheel too especially drive side, i ended up notched drive side smooth on other for better adjustment , the only ones i got on with was echo tr steel ones with micro notches even then it dug in over time then that was on tryall H hubs and rockaman frame. If a new chain got fitted or loosened chain it would fall into old groove again and bugger up chain tension.

Now i have 2 24 bikes street and trials both intergrated system no wheel movement and solid and even better adjustment especially for maggy brakes

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well I'm more confident now with this integrated design thingymabobby. I was thinking years ago when i first had my experience of chain tugs that i hope they make a better design and thankfully they have aha


Another quick question.... how many of you use Bash rings for 24"/26".. I see some riders on videos use them and some don't.. I was thinking of getting one but couldn't choose between full ring or half ring

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Full ones are easier to set up because you don't have to worry about the position. Half ones take a bit more fiddling to get right. And theres obviously a weight difference. I always run a bash, it's a good idea if you're as rough as me.

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Just wondering. What's not being careful? You tighten them, then the bolts and job done. Right?

i think what he means is if you tighten them too tight or if you use wrong size allen key or if you do them at an awkward angle

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One thing I really miss on my Breath over my Onza frames is the integrated tensioners. Don't really mind snail cams, but prefer integrated tensioners

I don't get why Bike/Frame companies don't just start building them into their frames cause I bet they are just as costly as snail cams, they should do 2 versions, snail cams or integrated tensioners

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More expensive to produce than basic dropouts for use with cams

Why would anyone produce 2 frames with such a minor difference? If they'd gone to the trouble of making it with integrated tensioners they wouldn't also do a version for cams

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