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TrialsMan Dan

Hope Trial Zone pad movemement

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Hey folks, recently acquired a 2020 Inspired Hex...loving it!!

One minor thing has been causing a bit of trouble though and that is brake pad movement in the front brake calliper. After the first few rides I contacted Tarty for some advice and they kindly explained that this can settle in as the brakes bed in. The rear brake as settled in now and isn't quite as bad now to the point it is hardly noticeable. Both front and rear disc rotor bolts are all torqued to 6nm, front possibly a bit higher as I cannot get any more safe torque without potentially rounding off the bolts (i'm so careful about this!).

Does anyone have any advice on how to sort this as it is making the bike feel like the headset is loose but clearly the movement is coming from the braking area. Calliper bolts all tight. I remember a trick that could be done with the split pins on Shimano's by wrapping them in a thin layer of tape but this doesn't seem possible with Hope brakes, the retaining pin is tight to the holes in the pads. Any other solutions?

Cheers

 

Dan

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Good to see you back man! 

Get an avid. 

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9 minutes ago, Little Yoshi said:

Good to see you back man! 

Get an avid. 

I never really went away to be fair.

I was done with SRAM/Avid a long time ago...

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As you've found at the rear, it does settle in with use. To speed this up, you can sand the paint off the back of the pads.

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Not sure if the same or not with shimanos but I cured that pad rock noise / feeling with some tape on the back of the pads. I used electrical tape but heard surgical tape or gaffa tape works as well. Just clean stick and cut neatly round and it’ll dig into the pistons and hold a bit  stiller. Some correct me if for any reason you can’t do that on hopes! 

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On 15/11/2020 at 0:11 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said:

As you've found at the rear, it does settle in with use. To speed this up, you can sand the paint off the back of the pads.

Thanks Adam, might give this a go!

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Done it with gorilla tape. Find a big hill and heat it up! This turned into this super hard welded cup for the piston area but still gave pad clearance with no rubbing.

One word of warning though push the pistons right in before putting the pads back. And to take the pads out you need to remove the caliper from the rotor to get 'cup' to clear the piston.

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I used a little gaffa tape on the back of the pad to achieve the same thing and remove pad rock. Seemed to work really well.

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