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Rear V Break


Whiteboy

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well lilttle update... bought some brand new avid sd5 callipers over day for chaep, and wow break is awesome, so loud now, and hold and bite is easily if not better than a magura, thing i found with a magura is that beacause the pads "clip" in the pad rolls slightly which means when land on the edge of something the pad will roll leading the brake to slip, as vees are fixed pads=no pad roll which imo makes the break hole hell of a lot bettter, so im sooooo happy with my vee now, also alot stiffer i find than my maggie even witout a booster on the vee, and cause of the oddsey cable no cable flex either, workin top notch cant really see myself changing back to a v magura now!!

cheers

;):)

Edited by leedstrials
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Just muc-off'd my rear SD7.

I think I just deafened everyone within a 10 mile radius.

On a similar subject (threadjack alert): anyone know how to get the lever to spring back quicker on a V? My front one's fine, but the rear (with the same spring tension at the cantis) seems to take forever. Almost as long as a maggy...

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I wouldn't mind running a vee on the back of my 20".

Only problem with running vee's for me is that the levers aren't long enough. I like my levers long. I supose a bmx lever like a tech 77 would be nice but it contains no springs.

Anyone tried using a vee with a bmx lever? Just wondered if was possible to get it to work nicely.

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I wouldn't mind running a vee on the back of my 20".

Only problem with running vee's for me is that the levers aren't long enough. I like my levers long. I supose a bmx lever like a tech 77 would be nice but it contains no springs.

Anyone tried using a vee with a bmx lever? Just wondered if was possible to get it to work nicely.

I've used a bmx lever, not good. IE the brake is too mushy. TOO MUSHY!

I know why it is bad, but I dont think I can manage tell you in english. Someone els has to do that.

The WIRE is too close the handlebar. If you want a stiff brake you've gotta have the wire as long as you can away from your handlebar.

If you have your wire as near the handlebar as they are on bmx levers, the stronger and mushier it will feel.

Damn, hard to explain for me.

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anyone who slates v-brakes realy needs to try one out. i had a realy good maggie with cnc pads rb lever and all that shiz but just got bored with adjusting it all the time and setting it up square with the rim so swapped this maggie for some ultimate arms and few other bits sold the bits bought a new ultimate lever and sent off the white cnc pads to steve to get coust material in them. and it works amazing! it locks on better then my maggie with tar on a smooth rim! it has modulation too and has NO flex and i mean none at all unless you pull it with two hands. this is with a bog standard 3.99 cable too.

ill try get some pics of the setup if anyone is intrested?

edit: i think theres alot of differance between bottom of the range arms and avid ultimate arms as they run on sealed bearings etc.

and also dont be put off by a brake lever that has no return spring, my ultimate is the newer revised version that has been out for awhile now and has no spring and returns as quick as you take your finger off it.

hope this may help someone a little

Edited by scott-mad
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Just muc-off'd my rear SD7.

I think I just deafened everyone within a 10 mile radius.

On a similar subject (threadjack alert): anyone know how to get the lever to spring back quicker on a V? My front one's fine, but the rear (with the same spring tension at the cantis) seems to take forever. Almost as long as a maggy...

You need to change the cable and flush the housing through with some gt85, then stick something nice and thick down after it, for example finish line wet loob, or some sort of wax loob. (Y)

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On a similar subject (threadjack alert): anyone know how to get the lever to spring back quicker on a V? My front one's fine, but the rear (with the same spring tension at the cantis) seems to take forever. Almost as long as a maggy...

You need a bit more spring tension at the canti's because a rear vee brake has to pull more cable that a front one, so set the tension to about 40% more than the front and it should pull about the same.

Someone might have another idea though.

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Tried both of the above suggestions to no avail.

I mean, I can get it to spring back quicker by cranking the rear spring tension, but it feels WAY to hard to pull then (way harder than it should be anyway), so something's wrong somewhere along the line, and the cable is pretty new so I doubt it's that. I cleaned it out and whacked some grease down it anyway.

Wondering if it's noodle related? I get the feeling from looking at it that I may have the rear noodle on t' front and vice versa (am I right in thinking that the rear is supposed to be a slightly different angle to the front? which is which?)

Years ago I knew all this stuff :\

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Tried both of the above suggestions to no avail.

I mean, I can get it to spring back quicker by cranking the rear spring tension, but it feels WAY to hard to pull then (way harder than it should be anyway), so something's wrong somewhere along the line, and the cable is pretty new so I doubt it's that. I cleaned it out and whacked some grease down it anyway.

Wondering if it's noodle related? I get the feeling from looking at it that I may have the rear noodle on t' front and vice versa (am I right in thinking that the rear is supposed to be a slightly different angle to the front? which is which?)

Years ago I knew all this stuff :\

try flushing you noodle out with some gt85 or similar, noodles are the worst thing about vees imo.

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scott-mad -

you ran maguras on a planet-x. for a start = no fourbolt mounts which is shit. and probably a standard booster i imagine. maguras will always rule in my opinion. i wouldnt use anything different.

stop moaning everyone :P

You'll start moaning too when you get fed up of breaking hoses and having to helicoil your frame's ass every few years. I think everyone who's been doing this long enough on a budget (and is lazy enough) grows out of maguras.

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Tried both of the above suggestions to no avail.

I mean, I can get it to spring back quicker by cranking the rear spring tension, but it feels WAY to hard to pull then (way harder than it should be anyway), so something's wrong somewhere along the line, and the cable is pretty new so I doubt it's that. I cleaned it out and whacked some grease down it anyway.

Wondering if it's noodle related? I get the feeling from looking at it that I may have the rear noodle on t' front and vice versa (am I right in thinking that the rear is supposed to be a slightly different angle to the front? which is which?)

Years ago I knew all this stuff :\

you have most likely put a kink in your inner cable.... happens when you crash or bail...

I run, Ultimate lever and calliper, nokon housing and CRV/Spanish fly (i lost one of my crv pads >_< )

I need to change the cable and give it a re lube.... but i will never run maggies ever again.... they suck major dick.

I know for most of you this isnt an issue.. but one of the major reasons i run vees also, is the fact that they are silent.... well they way i set up up... I HATE having a noisy bike! Feel so much smoother with my vees :shifty:

Peace

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My current set is:

RIM BT 38mm Double wall

Levers XT

Brake AVID 1D 2000 year

XTR Cables

Pads CRV

My previous set up was HS33 2004+CRM and HS33 2006+CRM.

Conclusion...will never switch to HS33 Magie...maybe rear disc but no more HS33.

Olso I could say that narrower rim 38mm compared to 47mm gives me better dump using same tyre 2.5.

post-1821-1152954140_thumb.jpg

post-1821-1152954313_thumb.jpg

post-1821-1152954424_thumb.jpg

Edited by rav
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