Alex Dark

I haven't had too many problems whacking rotors or callipers to be honest...but: The larger rotors will exert more force on your forks likely causing them to crack sooner than if a smaller, say 6" rotor is used. This completely depends on your style and ability though The Clim8 brakes are aimed at XC/ freeride and so probably won't have the bite and hold that we require in trials....again depending on your riding style though. The larger the rotor the more brake there is to hit basically... Triple pot systems are only really of any advantage when going downhill fast and heating the brakes...because the heat is spread across all three pistons it's less likely to heat up so much that brake fade is incurred. The larger rotor will obviously weigh more than the smaller one...along with the adaptor.

Zona frame by far...but Zoo for the spec Edit: I wouldn't buy a complete zoot personally...and those Tosxin frames don't look particularly inspiring to ride Any chance of getting that Zenith off ebay?

OH yes....the Zeniths ride amazingly, loved mine with a passion

Sony Vegas pro 9 that's what he used a while back anyway

Well got the bash finished today at long last....I reckon it looks pretty good, think im going to skin another 2mm off the top face ( still 10mm thick now..so wayyyy over kill in my eyes. Damned light though, bang on target at 74gr bash only with a good 10grams of material still to be removed. The Hi-ten bolts and now drilled sprocket ( another 5 holes still to go in ) weigh in at 82grams....so hardly weighty. At the moment the whole bash with bolts is grams.... compared to the cloud9; pretty damned good! The Tnn alloy set-up is 39g, pretty amazing, but alloy ring which I personally wouldn't trust my face with The steel set-up is 120g so I guess that's the target for mine Have to consider that mine is over twice as thick as the TNN! Same as the Cloud9 really... I know that I can comfortably get it to around high 50gr, and the cog down to around 70 something. Anyway, enough jibber-jabber....pictures are below

Looks wayyy better than the Zona, very smart

Should come down to Plymouth tomorrow to ride with me

Whole bike just looks incredibly crudely machined....

Hardly the end of the world to put them in CNC backings is it? Bike looks aight...much prefer the real bike

Wooo ... Tarty endorsement

Yup...better still use a nice reasonably soft thick walled alloy tube closest as possible to the headset size, ensuring maximum contact area when you twonk it one....always remember to tap alternately as to eliminate the risk of flaring

Weight at this point was 114.2gr....almost halving the original Here shows the conversion from full to half ring...hacksawed roughly to remove most of the material, then finished off with a 6mm cutter. Same as above, but shows bash bolted to rotating bed. Here is the final picture for now....bash has been milled and lathed to give a fairly nice half bash shape, the 'flick' at the end of the bash needs milling, along with the slot on the upper side. Also the spider mounts need removing, leaving enough for the cog to rest on ; eliminating the need for spacers Hope you guys like, the final product will be all fly cut then milled to give a nice cd like finish . Aiming for around the 85 gram mark, bash only Yeh man I'd be up for that, tell me what foot forward and anything you want done to it Really sussed out how to do everything now, could probably make the next one more accurately and in half or less of the time. Cheers dude They're ace, I'm still pretty much a complete novice, but love working with machines like this.... Should be finished byt tomorrow * fingers crossed * then I'll have pictures on the bike too.....Just need to drill the bloody cassette cog, standard HSS bits just aren't cutting the mustard / cro-mo Any tips? Maybe Cobalt cutters?

Righto! Got an update...decided to really get on it and nearly finished me little project. Used the lathe, mill, and pillar drill to get it sorted. Just need to do some cosmetic machining, and drill the cog and tap the bash. Super high (12.2 ) tensile bolts came in the post today, sooo I should have the whole thing on the bike and in testing by the weekend? Here's the bash before I buggered around with it...pretty bashed up but structurally gravy. Actual weight at this stage was: 223.7grams Just after lathing the first 2mm off Here it is after milling the other side down a bit more, 10mm thickness now. Milling the side down, decreasing the diameter from 104mm to 89.5mm to just cover the new 18t cog.

True your front wheel...practice everything on www.trashzen.com Damn straight, best way of doing it Just kill it, then replace with bits as needed.

Very fine sandpaper.....800 grit/1000....take o-ring off then evenly sand the piston down slightly. Rinse in water and try fitting. Always worked perfectly for me

Started on an x-ess too...if you learn the basics on that, then move to a trials specific rig...in my opinion you'll end up a better rider

Exactly what he says...but I prefer longer bikes. For instance, I'm 5 8" and my coust measures in at 1117, but only 670mm reach

I'd steer clear from try-all....

Ye get Luke out...haven't seen him in tiiiime

I has ideas....CAD model ahoy when I get home

YES...full fat is where it's at

Single wall the front rim at least...change tubes to lightish ones ( think Tesco ). Cut a headtube slot and bash mounts are both do able with a grinder and file to neaten...then trim every other knobble off the monty's when you get them too Changing to try-all cranks will save you 100g too. If you changed to say a t-pro frame that's 300g straight away... Grinder to cut the inner wall out...then file the burs back, then a heavy sandpaper to finish ( 60-80 grit ).

My thoughts exactly... true British shed engineering

Looks really nice, best one I've ever seen...although most people will disagree I love the way they ride > New bars, new forks and that's an acccce little bike.