Muel

Lies! I've had my burns on and off loads of times while trying to solve the self loosening BB, and the Monty TIs on my mod because I kept rebuilding the freewheel every couple of months. You run square taper because you've got that daft Hope bb designed for road bikes and it works out lighter than an ISIS set-up.

If you don't mind the weight, get an Echo Urban. You can always single wall it and it'll still be fairly strong.

Heard of the Wirral, ain't that scouser land?

Isis are stiffer, stronger and lighter, but more expensive. Square are heavier, weaker and more flexible, but very cheap. Just in my experience, there will be exceptions but just a general rule. Where abouts in cheshire are you from mate? I'm from just inside Derbyshire, about 5 miles from Marple.

Echo what, Zoo what, and which kamel? You can't compare any of their bikes anyway, Monty are lightweight bike with compy style geo, whereas Zoos are riding throwing at walls very, very hard, and Echos generally sit somewhere in the middle. (Modern ones anyway).

OK then yes. If you ride it like a spanner.

No, if you ride it like it was intended then they're fine.

Tarty arn't faggots though, they'll be nice about it.

Dave knows it!

I just do both as well as I can but fail dismally.

Looks mint Max, I want one. Your Pro2 is at the wrong end though.

I've done a Mod monty TI rim with 168 4mm holes which saved 18g, and a stock Atomz with 7mm holes and 256 holes which saved about 55g. It's not worth doing at all really, took my ages to do with stock one and didn't ride any different really. If you have a rear creepy crawler you can save about 100g by cutting alternate side knobbles off, looks pretty shit though.

Drill and tap for a Tensile insert?

Another vote for Tensile! I got one in December 2006, and it was still going strong up until I sold my mod about 3 months ago. In that time my mate killed two try-alls and two enos... Best £35 I ever spent, when you get it though, I'd strip it straight away and clean all the grease out, they really pack it in and it just sticks the pawls down and makes it start skipping. I ran mine with just WD40 in for about a year and it was fine.

It doesn't really rain more here than anywhere else in the UK, the difference is we're not scared of a bit of rain so we ride anyway.

In that case, i can't be bothered. I need to get/borrow a camera aswell if I'm going to enter...

I have the Trialtech one actually. I got one for the Mod when I had it and one for the stock at the same time, so one more new one and I'll be able to make up another new one out of the excess chain I've got left over.

Does it have to be on one bike or can it be on several? How about motorised trials?

The sprocket and bashguard are one piece, you won't be able to get a spacer in.

You'll probably have to put the pedals and bar/stem on aswell. To be honest bikes are a piece of piss to work with, they're just like a big jigsaw puzzle, only with instructions. (The wiki on here contains pretty much everything you need to know).

Yeh just the forks, the tool fits into the dropouts and uses a wierd milling bit type thing to cut a tiny bit off the disc mount and make them flat.

I'm using a KMC Z610, works really well! I've heard these bashes eat chains but mines been fine so far. Hardly stretched at all aswell compared to my old Kools I've had over the years, amazed at how good it's been for the weight.

Yes, they're about 4mm I think. But seriously, upgrade the adapters and use M10 bolts, it's so much better! The wheel can't shift on the dropouts, it's stiffer and and much, much stronger. Thinking about it, you should be able to drill your adapters out to 10mm easily enough surely? Then you don't have to mess about getting different end cones for the hub?

You either need a facing tool or you need to get a shop to do it for you. If you're handy with a file you can get it fairly close, but you need to make sure that the rotor is absolutely flat and true first.

Duh, only trials riders spend money at trials shops...