Marten@ScandinavianTrials

One guy from Poland could do what many brits couldn't. Probably has to do with how languages are related...but then again English is part Germanic. First it's "sh" as in sharp. Then it's kind of an f mixed with a v. Then it's "al" as in aluminium. Then it's "be" as in... just only say the b and it should work out fine. edit: wtf, double post within one post...

Awesome!

Not me in the pic (I took it), and actually it was taken two days ago. But anyhow...: Gapped to the third stone.

My shoulder has started to make really funky noises when moving the arm fast. Sounds like a gearbox on a car pretty much. "Klonk klonk klonk". Just noticed yesterday and it keeps on doing the noises today aswell. I can feel somethink moving strangely in there somewhere. But I haven't hit it in any way so I have no idea why it started... Any ideas on what's up with it?

24 isn't too old. No way.

Actually it was quite interesting. Traveling around alot measuring the earth using trigonometry... However the book was more of a novel portraying the quest more than the specifics of triginometry... Thankfully. T33zr: Not even sure that the inches we used here in Scandinavia are the same as the imperial inches though. "Aln, famn, tum, fot..." Everything relating to bodyparts, quite difficult when people tend to differ in size. Read somewhere that in order to find some sort of standard you would measure the king and use the dimensions of his bodyparts. Messed things up when a new king came though...

It's the original meter. However, the new definition is: 1/299,792,458 light seconds. I.e. the distance light travels in 1/299,792,458 seconds. But I haven't yet fully embraced that definition and am thus sticking to the old one. Btw. there's a really good book about how they worked to define the first meter...can't remember the title though.

I like to measure things in terms of ten-millionths of the length of the meridian through Paris from pole to the equator. Its more fun that way.

Anyways, now I've forced a stainless proper M5-bolt into the hole (hopefully it friction welded it's ass in there). Weird I had to force it into the damaged hole when it went smoothly into the other holes. Then went out for a small test ride. Seems to work for now. Dunno if I'd trust it for big moves though. Just did some random small gaps and kicked onto some rocks and what not, seems to hold up for that kind of stuff... If it rips out I'm going helicoil, no alternative... Monkey...: Told you! Naah, guess it's pretty odd with this much useable thread. But 7mm of useable thread seems a bit too little to be good. 10mm would seem better to me... The alu is like cheese so any extra threads are most welcome.

You can buy them from all Trialtech dealers right now (or at least you should be able to). In the UK that would be Tarty (perhaps there are more...). monkey...: My frame has got 14mm of threads so I guess it differs then...

It's standard m5, so you should be able to get them everywhere. Approx 25mm length should be perfect. The Deng ones are too short at just 20mm just allowing for 5mm to actually engage the threads making things even worse. Trialtech has got some sexy titanium bolts (that are up to standard, at least when I measured)...

Managed to destroy the threads in the maggie mount on my frame a couple of days ago. It happened very unexpectedly as I wasn't using any leverage or force (pretty much just rolling the allen key between my fingers to tighten down the brake finger tight before really tightening the bolts). Been checking the bolt and comparing to other that I know are up to standard. And guess what, the Deng bolt is too small. It's a couple of tenths of millimetres to thin (like 3), and the obvious result when put into soft aluminium is ruined threads... So my tip, get some proper bolts instead. There are other aftermarket bolts from both cycling specific brands as well as good ones from regular hardware stores. Definately worth it in retrospect I tell you... Sorry if this is common knowledge or something. But I thought it could be worth posting...

Trialsbikes are hard as hell to bunnyhop - too long. Get the basics for bunnies down on a bmx is my tip.

Sorry to say it, but your technique is off... What you should do is more of a manual and then kind of throw the bike up into the air. Difficult as hell to describe. But the hop is really a two stage movement, first you manual up the front wheel and then you launch yourself and the bike up and forwards. Bring the bike forward and get your ass low enough to touch the rear wheel. When at the highest point start to let the rear drop down for thouse smooth rear wheel landings. Right now your doing more of an over emphasized correction hop. You are preloading far too much and relying on the forks to get you up.

Did the same thing today, stripped out the maggie-mount. No wonder though, 5mm of m4 thread into soft aluminium.. such a stupid design its criminal. Still hurts screwing up my brand new BT 8.0 though... Going to get it heli-coiled if I can't just get a longer bolt to work.

Haha, oh well, everybody can't like everything... The frame is one of those things you either hate or love I guess. The Truvativ drivetrain is just there because that's what I had in my box of "good to have"-stuff. It will be replaced, simply because it looks like shit and don't really fit the bike - using cassette spacers right now to make it work... It's pretty light though... The wheels really came of a 6" fullsusser that was used for all kinds of riding and I figured they would do for some trials, so they went on my Base and now I still use them... Hard to kill them f***ers. Same thing, they will be replaced - just going to kill them first...right. Not that heavy, 780 grams a piece. Just requires some extra power to get them moving. No biggie.

Hadn't slept for 2 days so my mind was all messed up, had been working on an essay which was due today. After the essay had been handed in I for some reason I still haven't figured out decided to build myself a new bike... The result: So different compared to my old Base TA26... No need to comment on lever positioning, I forgot to tighten the bolts on the stem so the handlebar was all loose when I rode... sketchy. Raven 8.0 Vertical Echo Urbans Halo combats laced onto White Industries rear hub and WTB front. (When I change cranks I'll get som new wheels as well probably...) Trialtech booster, stem and single speed spacers... and headset spacer, and grips...and grip stops...and QR:s. Can't understand where I got all the bits from?! Heatsink Blueberry brake pads. (For some reason they were the stickiest pads in the shipment consisting of all different Heatsink pads available...) XTR 975 front brake, which sucks and hopefully will be replaced Truvativ Stylo cranks which will be replaced. They don't really fit the frame, physically I mean. They don't fit. Mr Control chain tensioner... ugly but the only thing i could get hold of right now.

Nice! Send me some proto pics Steve! I'm curious!

In case you haven't noticed Steve's not on holiday - e-mailed a bit back and forth yesterday... Stocks are pretty much cleared out but Steve's working on getting everything running again after a huge surge in demand. Or so I've heard. More info on the website. He posted some news yesterday.

Swedish pornography!? What the hell?

Snuggt. (Good)

18 or 19 I think...

It's Martin Söderström one of Swedens best dirt and park riders, he's frickin amazing. The bunny tailwhips are awesome. He is down in Milano this weekend for the Quashqai qualifications but in his first run he crashed a tailwhip into the second kicker hitting his shoulder pretty hard in he first run. Think it affected him for the second run which was completed without a crash but not as good as he usually rides...

Design is sweet! The rest has already been commented on enough.

Fantastic riding!