DYAKOV

I’d agree with ogre there. Get yourself a nice second hand bike for the same amount of money. That will feel better and will last you longer as well. People on this forum are quite genuine and I can’t imagine anybody selling you broken parts either. Or, as people say - buy cheap, buy twice

I’d say go for the KO bike if you like it! First thing is, especially for a beginner, you need to love how your bike looks! You need to look at it the way a groom looks at his bride on a wedding day and think “ooooh she’s the one” haha I’ve seen lots of people spending a fortune on “the right” bike and giving up after a month cos they’re impatient to learn everything and go big in no time. And if they’ve spent so much money on a bike that they don’t like but they only bought it cos somebody said it’s “the right” bike, then it’s very likely that they’d just quit. Geometry wise, yeah there is a difference between different frames but to a big extent that comes down to picking up the right stem and handlebars as well. After all, if you’re not a UCI top 5 rider, 100-200 grams more or less wouldn’t make that much of a difference. It’s that 100-200grams that make the KO frame a lot stronger than new model frames and that’s what you need as a beginner. When you get to a point that 100-200 grams and +10/20mm bb rise is essential to your riding, then you’d know what frame to get yourself and you wouldn’t be even asking on the forum :-) If he can do it, you can do it! -

Thank guys for your replies! Just a quick update - managed to fit everything with lots of clearance between the bb and the freewheel. Just hope the thread will hold alright but if anything happens I’ll post on here anyway for other people to bear in mind. Weird thing is that when I tried to fit the cranks on a brand new KO bikes bb they wouldn’t insert easily as usual so I had to tighten the bolts to help the cranks slot in. They were nearly new cranks so I can imagine the splines being still quite tight and unworn wouldn’t just slit in very smoothly but I’d never had that issue before so it made me think is there any difference between splines of different brands of cranks/bb’s?

I picked up a crank set from eBay the other day - 160mm tryall cranks, trialtech bash, echo tr fw - and I can see the fw isn’t screwed all the way in cos of the bash ring taking up some space on the thread. Spoke to my mate who had the same cranks ages ago and said that he just used them without a bash. I’m not a smooth rider in the slightest and I do need a bash. Another issue is they might not fit on the bb if fw comes out too much but I’ll see about that when I fit them on tonight. After all, they’re second had parts and have been used on a bike already so practically there should be no problem with fitting them on. My question is has anybody had that kind of a set up and did the thread hold alright? Any opinion/advice is welcome! Cheers, Nas

I have two spare freewheels one 60 click tensile of the old ones (quite loud, took it off an old bike I recently bought) and a 72 click monty (not as loud and again came with my old bike, looks new and in a good shape though). Which one would be better to use? Cheers, Nas

Cheers for that mate! Yeah I’m really keen on trying one and I’ve been looking at your thread. I’d be after a hs33 frame though and I’ve got a few parts left from my old bike, so it’ll be more of a mix and match rather than buying a whole bike. But thanks for that!

I’ve had quite a few mod bikes and all of them being old model frames e.g. echo lite 08, Monty 221ti and a pr one, adamant a3, limey 320, because colour, koxx xtp 08?.... Out of them I really liked how the limey 320 felt. So I guess for my new build I’d be looking for a short wb frame, with high bb and a short chainstay as well (that adamant was shit to ride!) I was thinking to get a relatively newish frame, something on the lines of ozonys curve for example. I’m not interested in any of the top range scorpio/Monty m5/and other carbon frames (or voltron frames as I call them) as I can’t afford that and I bash a lot... Can you guys suggest other options for me to consider also give an opinion on the ozonys curve mod frame? Cheers, Nas

I don't really have much experience with stock bikes but definitely go for a long wb if it's a mod mate. I am around 171-172cm and my personal preference is for a short wb... but being 180cm and over will be a pain to ride! Do you not have any friends around whom you can ask to try out different bikes/geos and see what feels most comfy?

You mean a rim brake yeah? That should be fine if you're not using a brake booster/washers etc.. also double check for retapped threads, cos people tend to go M6 instead of helicoil...

way too many punctuation marks mate

Right, so there isn't a rule what size stem and bars to use. It all depends on the frame length (measured as wheelbase) and the chainstay, your height, and your personal preference. Some people like long bikes while others like short bikes. 150x30 stems are sort of universal and that's why lots of people use them by default. I've used different size stems on different bikes that I've had. You just need to experiment and see what works best for you. In general (as to my understanding) the longer chainstay you have, the more it will pull you down when staying on a back wheel. That's why you'd use a shorter stem with a lower rise angle, so you'd pull your front end higher/closer to your body and vice versa. Then rotating your bars (depending on the backsweep as well which is usually 10 degrees) will help for your balance respectively: having it vertical will help you easily pull the bike for pedal ups and bunny hops and having it rotated forward makes it more comfortable for static moves such as pedal kick, side hop, surge etc.. Hope that helps!

to be honest I can't fault it mate! They were notorious for leaking but with all racing line bits (blade, piston, fittings) it works as it should and is quite comfy as well. Plus being all cnc and universal left or right hand makes it ideal I think.

After a long time riding newer style bikes I sourced and built this fine example of a mod from back in the days? Spec is: Monty 221pr frame Monty handlebars Echo 150x30? stem Viz? disc & vee forks monty rims on front hope and rear chrisking hubs in maxxis tyres echo "dengura" lever with magura 2011+ slaves, echo sl clams & echo sl 2 bolt brake booster avid sd7 lever and vee arms, shimano cables adm in metal backings front and rear tritech forged cranks, trialtech 18t sprocket, tartybikes bash ring, onza hognesium pedals Looks and rides nice! Quite heavy to be honest and I can do with new bars and new drivetrain set but but that's as good as I could do for a start. Thanks to @old boy chez @Marcus Chapman @isitafox @murga and other sound lads who provided me with the good parts for decent prices! Jason is a top seller! Marcus always has the bits you need, not the first time I'm buying from him. Cheers, Nas

I've always had water bled brakes and I've noticed they feel a lot firmer and more responsive as well! My perfect setup is with echo/zoo/adamant (dengura) cnc blades but nobody seems to have them any more... Anyway, I'm running adm's in tnn backings. Will cut them a bit as they are worn a bit uneven, hope that helps.

Yeah same here. It's an old monty frame with an integrated booster and I put on a wee echo 2 bolt booster as well, so shouldn't be the frame but that makes sense mate. I'll try to give it another bleed just in case and see how I get on...

Hi all, I was just wondering if the 4 finger blades normally feel a bit softer or is it my bad luck again? I've tried having them on 2-3 different brakes (hs33's) and it always feels softer than the standard magura or echo cnc'd ones. However, this time I'm having all the good bits, so it's not a dodgy setup and it still feels like the brake has air in it, although I just bled it... Is there anything I'm missing?

Hi there, I'm currently looking for some mod parts and am willing to buy. Can you tell what spares you have and I'll offer you prices on these? Cheers!

Haven't read all the comment, so sorry if I'm going against anybody but if you're saying you don't want to spend a lot on the bike maybe you'll consider this: My point is you don't really need the streety bits to do streety moves on it as it is mate

On here

How do I leave feedback on a seller? I remember there was a way of doing it but I couldn't find the button for it. Has that option been removed? Cheers, Nas

What hub are you running on the back mate?

Loving this! This is exactly the style I'll be going for with my new bike! Good job mate

Hi dude, I had old echo lite forks from the good ones back in the days.. The steerer was half way snapped, so I got a custom extension made which was fitted quite tight in the original tube, then tightened even more with a headlock and welded just to make sure it stays there. After 10 min riding the steerer snapped and I smashed my elbow on the ground. Similar situation with my handlebar extensions... I also had a half stripped thread on an echo forged crank, so again I used a custom made insert to hold my pedal better (similar to the onza muscleman cranks) and I'm sure you can guess what happened wasn't very nice. I've also made 4 bolt to V adapters, brake boosters, top caps and small bits like this.. I can give many examples but from experience I would suggest: If you like home made stuff like me, go ahead, I totally support thinking people who can use tools and machinery to make their own parts BUT make sure you start and make something from scratch rather than trying to fix a stock part which is already broken, most likely it will be painful

Hi dude, I started reading through the comments but they were getting more and more massive as I scrolled down, so apologies if I'm saying something twice! I had an A3 frame for a bit and it was okay but nothing special. First of all, if you are looking for a lifetime frame, then go for this one - it will never crack! Presuming it's one of the older models it's a bit heavier too (thick U6 aluminium tubing). Other than that, the integrated booster actually worked (I think) which nowadays is built almost for decoration purposes only. The bb was mid height which made it more universal for streety lines along with the pure trialsy stuff. What I didn't like the most was how long it felt! I am 172cm tall and although I was riding with almost flat bars (the old zoo low risers) it really felt like a stock with bent forks and 20" wheels. It's not just the wheelbase being long but the chainstay was 360 as far as I remember. In general, if this will be a first bike I'd say buy it depending on condition and price, suggesting price around £200-£220? You can always upgrade parts once you find out for yourself what feels comfy and what needs got rid of

I had my old limey drilled as you suggest and there was no issue at all I am away from home though and am missing my tools, so was looking for a more simple solution. I did eventually run the hoses as shown in the first picture on top of the page and am very pleased with the look Cheers guys!