Heatsink

If you're using tar then it doesn't sound totally successful It's tricky cleaning grinds compared to smooth rims. I'd regrind and concentrate on cleaning those pads nicely Steve

It's common for grease to generally get onto rims & pads (there is a chain spinning around nearby!), compromising the coefficient of friction between the two. White Spirit isn't the best degreaser since it leaves residue. If you're looking for an easy to get hold of alternative I'd recommend a household cleaner for floors/bathrooms or even washing up liquid as being better than white spirit. Washing off the cleaner afterwards with water is always a good idea, and giving the brake a period of use afterwards seems to help. Moulded brake pads come covered in mould release agent, so they need to be degreased before glueing and use. To do a top job of this I use some Industrial chemical degreasing solution, which isn't suited to home use due to it's harmful nature! Why not grab the washing up liquid and a brio pad and see how much better that makes it work? Best of luck, Steve

Well from the date I order them, then it should be 4-6weeks, but I've been holding back on ordering since taking orders for frames and also making brake pads was overloading me time wise! It was an idea to have a gap in the stock of these frames to give me some breathing space to complete the mountain of brake pad work outstanding. That said, from the emails I get, riders are keen for me to get them back in stock asap, especially the white ones. So I should find an energy spurt, make some major progress with brake pad manufacture, and get some white frames on order! Within the next week I will make it my goal to complete the outstanding work on methods which accelerate my manufacturing speed (the pads in the Heatsink range which are currently hand cut individually). So next Friday (2nd of March) I can decide whether I'm ready to order the frames or otherwise set a date for it, and post the expected delivery date on my website. Thanks for your interest Tom, and I'll reply to the email I think I received from you too! Cheers, Steve

Plenty of 24" tyre/wheel/rim/hub choice on www.chainreactioncycles.com, and I'm sure the TartyBikes chaps can help too Seats ***, even though I won't have any 24UKs back in stock for a few months Steve

Hi Nick, The testimonial I wrote for you has a broken link! Also, this is a broken link on the front page: "To view the action from Lister vs. Waterhouse (Game 1) Click Here" The site is looking very professional and the all important portfolio is building into an impressive body of work! Steve

Is this the order for refills which I glued into new backings as an upgrade? I apologise if the compensation isn't enough. It's really hard to be totally equal in cases where I've offered compensatory pads in return for delays. Firstly I'm maybe alone in offering any freestuff at all, and second I guess that it could be judged as fair that the compensation be proportional to the order cost roughly. The "untested" new compound is one which comes from the same supplier but is only a slightly different Shore A hardness so there's a very high confidence that they will perform well. As ever please pop me an email if you have any more feedback, unresolved issues: Steve@heatsinkbikes.com To clear up the pad fitting thingy: The pad recess in Heatsink CNCed magura backings is slightly undersized compared to Powerpad backings. With vertical sides rather than the slight draft on plastic pads, and also the 1mm length difference between Magura branded and Powerpad branded backings, this is important so that pads can always be made to fit. It's a trivial matter to make a pad from a Magura fit into a Heatsink CNCed Magura/Vee backings, but take care with the Stanley knife, make sure the blade is sharp so you don't use too much force when you may slip, use some water as lubrication (on the blade!), and always cut away from your fingers. For removal of pads from plastic backings, I've used the boiling water method for literally hundreds of pads. Once it's broken the glue bond partially, I peel the pads out with my teeth. Ouch! Steve

I followed a path towards the same degree as my Dad. Used to get technical lego every year for Xmas since a young age! Picked up an interest in the French language and so did French, Maths and Physics at A-level. It's 100% true what people say; A-levels are the hardest thing you'll ever do, which is a comfort. I should mention that I lost my motivation in the first year of the Sixth form and decided to repeat the year so I could do it better. Rather unusual, but I got into a lazy rut somehow. Got 3 Bs in my A-levels and went to Bath Uni to study Mechanical Engineering combined with French. Spent a 1 year placement working in France which helped me to get to the level I always wanted and opened my eyes to so much of their culture. Lived student life to the full getting fully involved with loads of sports clubs (even had my own radio show!), and neglected the studies resulting in needing to repeat the 2nd year. Gave me the refocus I needed, and I found my motivation again to avoid bombing out and working in the local Spar for the rest of my life. Once I had received my degree (somehow picking up a 2:1), my plans of finding a job in France straight out of Uni didn't work out and I ended up in a depressing job in a depressing part of the world. Working in an R&D centre for a Die-casting company in Redditch. Company went down the pan which turned to be the biggest blessing in disguise ever. Got a job at a Cambridge based Product development consultancy and worked there for 5 years during which time I met my wife, had a first child and we bought a house together. Also set-up HeatsinkBikes which draws on my career experience and local manufacturing contacts. I really enjoy designing new products and getting them realised and appreciated by riders all around the world, although I have to still work to balance the demands on my time with such as busy live. Left the product consultancy and now work down the road for a well established company specialising in test equipment which supplies around the globe to companies including Porsche and Nasa. I really enjoy this new job which gives me the chance to learn new stuff every day and assist with the development of some seriously cool machinery combining a huge range of technologies. 2nd child arrived and we also moved to a larger house in a quieter location. Doing both at the same time wasn't a good idea for minimising stress levels. The knock backs aways create new opportunities I've found. Don't worry if you loose motivation from time to time. It's like shooting in the dark trying to find an interesting career. If you follow your passions then you'll maximise the chance of finding a career that you really enjoy. Also, there are so many new and interesting careers (due to the developement of computers) which exist now that didn't not so long ago. A great time to be alive! Steve

^ One of the best images on Michael Singleton's photo site: http://www.michaelsingleton.co.uk/ Steve

Components wise, there may be less choice of rims and tyres than for 26" or 20", but there is still plenty of choice between some great items. Standard 26" components can be used for all the other components aside from the wheels. Since the modern breed of 24" frame is built around a 26" fork geometry (following on from the Ashton ET 24"), the issue with limited availability of forks with the vee bosses 1 inch lower is sidestepped by running a front disk. As a case in point, have a look at the components on this bike belonging to Jan at trialsmarkt.de Steve

Needless to say I moved from 26" to 24", 24UK to be precise The flickier frame injected a new lease of life into my riding with rotation moves and bunny hops becoming easier. Here's a photo from a moment when the 24UK wasn't sat in the shed whilst I change nappies! I'm going to start riding at work lunchtimes again down the local and rather tame (fortunately) ramps Steve

This rule is a farce, with it being not inforced in many events and then inforced in others causing winning riders to be disqualified. Sounds like it's rightfully on the way out! Steve

Interesting tensioners! That stinger one is exactly what I wanted to do with the addition of a split clamp at the joint so that chainline adjustability is easier than using spacers From its looks it certainly suggests they've based it on the Rohloff, so all signs are positive, including importantly the multi turn high torque spring. I've got a Rohloff on my bike, which gives reliable and maintenance free tensioning The £15 tensioner doesn't have the burly spring of the other one, or the looks, but could be great value if it proves up to trials use. I never did get the big push into getting my sprung tensioner made, due to all quotes showing the high costs of UK manufacture with all the parts in the assembly. Steve

Mike kindly buys the empty CNCed backings from me. They are 100% orginal Heatsink stock which Mike then mounts his material into. One of the beauties of such backings, and all power to Mike's elbow for this. Because I'm still hand making all the pads for the CNCed backings, understandably I have hit a temporary stop in their production due to time contraints involved with having 2 children under 2 years old. Not to worry because a new method is developing which will allow consistant supply I've learnt my lesson about being overwhelmed with orders and running out of freetime to keep up, so the ordering will only go live again for the complete range of pads when stock levels are high and immediate send out is possible. Steve

I've got a surplus 32tooth bash from a Candanian machining company. Embarassingly I can't remember the name of the manufacturer and it's not to hand at the moment. I will dig it out and can send a photo if you're interested in it. Great condition and never used by me except for looking at the design. Steve

Nice looking model there. Be sure to check where the Centre of gravity is during ascent so you don't loop out. Is that solitary beam between front and rear sufficient for the loads on it? Steve

My last 2 purchases: The Feeling, 12 Stops and Home Charlotte Gainsbourg, 5:55

I couldn't get to work today so we've been doing better things If I had gloves it would be a bigger snowman! Steve

Sending anything to the USA isn't much extra hassle or cost. You could pick up some really decent burns for 50 - 60 Ukpounds on TF with bashguard and 22t sprocket, 50% of retail. Postage to the states, you could have them sent standard airmail (no insurance) for a few pounds, or Insured for nearer £10. Eitherway the postage added on won't break the bank for you and won't be a pain for the seller. I'm pretty sure that Martyn A still runs RaceFace cranks (as he has for many years) because he lent me a set with the motivation of me looking at designing a new bashguard for the future. The first time I'd actually seen a set up close and I think they're beefy and look the part although I can't speak of any experience running them long term. Plenty of other Ashton supported riders seem to prove that they're well upto the job! The downside is the limit on how small the bash can be, as others have pointed out. Steve

If I was in the USA and fancying some Middleburns I would consider picking up some second hand on TF. There are often ones for sale with them being such a popular crank in the UK Steve

Lack of time has meant that Heatsink Red Vees won't be available for a little while - need to find time to assemble more. However, an alternative is to just buy Heatsink Vee backings which are ready to go. I'll put these back up on my site if I haven't already Many riders like assembling their own Vees using their favourite Magura pads. Steve

Haha! I was looking at levers but the market is totally saturated now after all my faffing around. I've got to try and be one step ahead of the pack and find parts to release that Deng hasn't thought of yet! Got a nice new component coming out in a few weeks... hush-hush! Steve

^ An RB lever modded by Dave85. Notice the custom turned TPA to replace the plastic one. The new shorter pivot bush is a brass hollow top hat with a brass washer the other end, standard Magura lever pivot bolt is alongside. The actual lever modification is the filed down region you can see all scratchy around the pivot. Both sides have been filed down equally to reduce the lever width in this region to 10mm. Easier than you may have thought! Steve

It's 18tooth only. There's not enough land on the 17 and 16tooth sprockets for the required bolt holes, and larger than 18tooth means the chain will be exposed! With a seperate sprocket, the sprocket can be cost effectively "Hard Chromed" to vastly lengthen its life compared to a stanless steel sprocket which is part of the bash. The bash life is no longer limited by the sprocket life either Steve

18tooth for the win There will be a 3rd choice of splined Middleburn's bash in a few weeks time, and this one will be the first to have enough axial space for the widest trials chains No more chain interference issues and having to wear in the bash/chain to work together. Steve

Dave85 has modified lots of RB levers to fit Magura Pre 2005 bodies. He did the one pictured for me. To make it fit the lever needs to be filed thinner to fit in. Dave also polished the lever and provided a better TPA than the original plastic one, and a new sized brass bushes to suit the body. I don't know if it works better because the lever is too long to actually use with riser bars. I can't mount the lever body far enough toward to the centre of the bars so the finger position is correct. The sealing set-up for RB levers is not as well realised as for Maguras. Even in the hands of an experienced RB maintainer like Dave85, 100% positive results aren't guaranteed. PM Dave85 and see if he's still got the time to help. Steve