Heatsink

I'm running 22:16 with 175mm cranks, 137.5% gearing. It works well for me! A harder gear than I was running on my old stock frame. I had to use this 24" set-up because the freewheel was 16t and firmly attached to the rear axle, wheras on my stock it was easy to swap sprockets on the custom cassette I had. Just to experiment I will be taking the front sprocket down in size slightly to 20:16, 125% gearing which will be closer to my old stock preferred set up of 22:17, 129.4% I can easily swap back if it doesn't have enough Ummph! Steve

Anyone got an account login for the download?

If you're wondering if there's a LIDL near you: http://www.lidl.co.uk/uk/home.nsf/pages/c....ice.s.sts.index Looks a good way to get started with a selection of tools for the price of a couple of some of those. Some may break prematurely, but others may be perfectly good. I'd buy it if I hadn't already built up a collection of tools. Steve

There are some nice shots there! Yours are better than mine Joe! I've definately got to pull my socks up with photo taking. Looking at all the photos so far from the Cambridge ride I've come up with some tips. Maybe this would be a good place to ask you what you think of these suggestions (not directed at your photos Joe!): To make moves look bigger, take shots from the crouching position For more interesting shots where the rider fills the composition more, turn the camera to suit the angle that rider and bike make. For example ignoring the angle of the ground and instead going for having the usually vertical side of the shot approximately parallel with the bike/rider upright form.For better lit shots be aware of where the sun is shining from and try and get shots with it mostly shining from behind you (as long as you shadow doesn't obscure the shot!). To avoid big moves looking small, show the full size of the obstacle by getting its base in shot. You can make them look bigger if there is a near edge that you can catch in the shot since this height in the foreground will appear biggerFor a more interesting shot, spy an interesting background and work it in: Impressed spectators, interesting building, No cycling road sign.For a more interesting shot, be sure to catch the riders face and expression (Joe will never dissappoint!)For a more interesting shot, change your usual moment of capture. For example try rather than getting every shot on the moment of landing, maybe catch the moment of most extreme body position mid move, or the moment when the tyre is just inches from landing.For a better framed photo, if riders are sessioning an obstacle, take the opportunity to do a practise shot to be sure you get the angle you want right and everything in.You combined lots of these ideas in some of your photos Joe! Julien dropping in, Wing mid flight, Jonny bunnyhopping Steve

Great photos! Julien's photos are way better than mine! Apart from the quite good one of Julien pivoting I took, mine look like snaps without much thought put into them in comparison :$ I'll definately be getting better ones next time from the ideas I've picked up here Steve

See you there then Here's Julien, the webmaster for Trashzen, in action near Cambs station this Sunday just been. Steve

When I met Nick last I mistook him for Bigman. They are both cuddly chaps

Newbie error I'm sure it will be moved in a minute - I've got to rush off to the shed now! Steve

^ Some of the riders and sunny skies - What a weather turn around! Just 1/2 an hour earlier it couldn't have been raining harder! ^ Joe Maher, gap down from wall to kerb edge ^ Chris Walford with a smooth up ^ Mr Gowing with a wheel swap up ^ Julien TrashZen doing a 180 ^ Those tyres were no good for beating off pinch flats! Steve

This is all you need: Dell Inspiron 1300 Great deal Very pleased with mine! Steve

I echo Julien's comments Incredible weather change around midday! I got some photos too, although it was an after thought. I got some short clips too. May upload tonight time permitting Steve

Turn those Tensile mounts around and it will bring the brake closer There's also the classic "Pad Bodge" which involves attaching an old pad backing onto your current pad using screws. Historically this was used when the first Level Bosses came out with around 100mm spacing between the mounts but everyone still was running narrower rims. Bruiser1 (RomanR on OTN) did the set-up above ^^ Full details: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....mp;hl=pad+bodge Steve

The view from just outside Cambridge: [attachmentid=6471] I'm still wanting to come so I can catch Wally, Joe and the rest and hang on in there for some rideable conditions. All we need is one under cover riding spot as well! I'm planning to be there for 10:30am, for the social side at least, and some riding even if it's just around the shopping estate! Steve

Julian, Do you have any top secret under cover riding spots? I'm riding anyway since I've managed to negotiate a very rare break from child care I'm hoping to see as many of my old chums as possible even if not much riding gets done! Steve

"Light Rain" according to the BBC website. Fingers crossed this forecast improves! Steve

There are some great vids showing 24" riding. I'm uploading some to www.youtube.com at the moment. What about this one of Fred Judd: -> nbr_fred.mpg http://tv.isg.si/site/?q=filebrowser/NBRTrials_2 Steve

These grey and black ones are dual compound, with the grey edges being softer for increased grip when cornering apparently. I just picked them because of the colours! I got them from CRC who haven't got their photos up yet but are cheaper than me ordering/going in person to get them from Billys in Cambridge: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=12382 The standard tyre is available in black, pink or green. Here's the full info from Billys in Cambridge: http://www.billys.co.uk/english/group.php?...tyha-24twinr-tt Well, when designing the frame I wanted as many components to be transferable from a stock bike to a 24UK as possible so that making the switch is as cheap and easy as possible. If you're running a front disc on your old 26", then you could build a complete 24UK only needing a pair of wheels and tyres. I wanted to get hold of some riser bars instead of straight bars, I had a seat lying around already and an array of unused seat posts. I also wanted some forks with Vee bosses moved down for 24" wheels. So on top of the components I already had from my old 26", I bought the following parts second hand through TF: A pair of second hand wheels including tyres and tubesPashley stock forks with bosses moved down by Clive LeesonA set of riser barsThis came to just over £100 second hand and I was away! I also bought a seat post shim and a seat clamp from CRC which came to an additional £10.. Steve

As Mr Tart famously said, a chipolata would work with tar! A good brake pad shouldn't need tar to perform well. Smooth rims do require cleaning to avoid greasing up of the surface, but I would try and avoid using that horrid tar if you can. I've had some nasty incidents due to variability of a tarred rim's grip (the amount applied being hard to get exact) and the fact that pads stick to the rim....Good brake pads plus a good understanding of how to keep your rim surface ideal is the way forward I think. I'd recommend both the red and blues for smooth or ground rims. I know riders are using them for both sorts of rims and are giving me the thumbs up. The main difference is that the red pads are slightly harder which suits the characteristics of the more rigid CNCed backings. Steve

I've not got any experience with horizontal drop outs, but from my standpoint I'd prefer to stick with vertical drop outs for any stock frames: No need to set up your brake & chain tension at the same time since with the wheel moveable both are affected simultaneously. Surely this must be a pain?I'm coming around to prefering a sprung tensioning system and am not concerned about the small amount of additional weight (approx 100g) on a non rotating part, or the vulnerability to bashing.Familiarity with vertical drop out set-up and confidence in this.It must be easier to have a small element that needs positioning to set tension (e.g. rigid tensioner), or no element that needs positioning in the case of a sprung tensioner, rather than a bulky wheel.So basically with the vertical drop outs and say a sprung tensioner, tensioning and brake set-up is a cinch. I may be wrong about this, but I'm guessing that with a horizontal dropout tensioning and brake set-up is more fiddly and time-consuming. For me the benefits that the horizontal dropouts supposedly bring (weight saving of not needing a tensioning arm, no tensioner to bash) aren't compelling enough. But then I would say that because I am supposedly bringing out a tensioner some day! Steve

Hi Sam, I've sent off a couple of emails recently including one in the early hours of this morning - Did they not come through? I didn't get a response to the last one so maybe that should have showed me something was up! Some upgraded pads and spares will be winging their way to you very soon, just need your address confirmed because I had a conflict between one mentioned in emails and the paypal one. Pop me a PM/email to sort it out Steve

I certainly will be! I didn't realise that it was looking so neat! I guess it's from holding the angle grinder in such a way that it contacts uniformly with the rim. There are probabily messy bits too which aren't shown in the photo. Something to study on Sunday if anyone's interested The tyres had to go on after I saw them in Billys Cambridge! Aside from giving the bike an original look, you have to feel how smooth running they are too with their twin rail design. Incredible! I accept no responsibility for them being rubbish for traditional trials though, although I've been finding they offer enough grip oin edges too. The blue pads in plastic backings are good for all grinds or smooth rims. For CNCed backing the red pads are better for glueing to the Alu and other reasons I reckon. I thought I'd build a silver frame up to show how good they can look aswell as the other colours. Thanks for all your comments so far! Steve

^ Heatsink CNCed Vees ^ Heatsink Blue magura pads + Heatsink Booster I hope you like it! Steve

Great to hear quality feedback about my pads It makes everything worth while, especially since some of the pads (eg. the ones in CNCed backings) take a lot of time to precisely cut and glue so that they can go out the door with the quality being top notch. I do all this careful cutting, and assembly work myself at the moment for Coust and other pads that go in the UK machined CNCed magura/Vee backings. The blue pads are moulded at a specialist company in the UK and again I do all the glueing myself to be sure that the quality is the best it can be. To answer your question about the speed of send out, there have been delays recently of up to a week or longer. Heatsinkbikes is run on top of a fulltime job, and with me working on HSB in my evenings only to date (although not in future!) it's been susceptable to impact from family issues. I'm desperate to eliminate these delays though, so that I can not only offer great value pads, innovative pads, all British made - but also all on an immediate delivery! My current priority is on nailing this issue and I'm very close to doing this! The good news is that all pads have healthy stock levels with all pads and the 3 backing types in ample supply. I've just received a big supply of Coust pads, a new delivery of blue pads and very soon the occasional delays associated with the CNCed Vee pads will go away because I have a speedier manufacturing technique lined up. I will be sending out all delayed orders in the next couple of days. Please assume that new orders will take around 3-4 days for me to send as I start to build up stocks again of assembled pads ready to send. Thanks for your support! Steve

Great slogans! I like the one about leaving the saddle behind Recently kids seem to ask me alot how much my bike cost. Of course I tell them £50 and that you can buy very similar ones from Argos. Hopefully that way I won't have any nasty surprises if they talk to their shady relatives. "It's worth £50, I got it from Argos (Not worth stealing)" Steve

Welcome on board!