chris4stars

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/media/guides/maintenance_rim_grinding/m2.html

ive not been round for long, but i have noticed in a lot of the videos that include a static hook, the footage is often speeded up (speeded seems wrong?!) with the rider usually hanging/bonucing a little for quite some time....

get yourself informed... the brake pad review topic is just a few clicks away in the members section....start from the most recent and read till your hearts content

that may help, also check out trashzen and ryan leech if he has any clips for me personally, recently i had a bit of a eureka moment where it seemed to just 'click'. I found that just feeling comfortable to jump vertically whilst on the back wheel (no walls or anything, just on the flat) improved my technique no end

as far as im aware.....in general, when 'geometry' is spoken about, it is only refering to the angles/lengths of the frame (and forks). your height or bar/stem set up doesnt change this, but will of course have quite an influence on how the bike feels if the original blade felt good, then id recommend trying to buy parts that would be similar. one of the guys from tarty or here should be able to tell you the angles of the original stem. at least then youre starting with an all-round setup, giving you time to ride for a while and figure out if you fancy something a little longer/shorter or steeper/slacker bar wise, trialtechs seem to often go down well, as do some viz bars...theres various topics dotted about that could help your decision on that matter

best take some advice so you dont balls up your new brake.... if youre not bothered about breaking further brakes...by all means, ignore it - somewhat contradicts the point of the topic though nothing wrong with a magura, probably why alot of the worlds top riders, and the majority of the trials community use them with no issue whatsoever....confuses me how so many basic riders seem to know more than the 'experts'

correct me if im wrong, but theres a brake pad review section somewhere.... EDIT* found it!! two topics above this one at this present time

put it this way, what do the majority of the worlds top riders use if they are running a rim brake?

great advice davey thanks...looking forward to see how alex's rims have come out with the snow...theres no really rush so im going to take my time and do it over a few days, just reading this and working out what i need to go out any buy need to wait untill the black spokes arrive to figure out if its a matt/sating/shiney finish that looks best....if by chance anyone has a colout hope hube built within a black rim/spoke/nipple wheel..a pic would be most welcome...

brilliant thanks, exactly what i was wanting

I asked a while ago but didnt get much response, tried the search and didnt get exactly what i want Im painting my rim. its a white trialtech holed and id like it to be the sort of black finish found on bought rims. Its been disassembled, Id now like to know: what the process is to get a half decent finish...do i nitromorse or just sand? does it matter that i wont be able to get right into the little holed sections? how many coats of primer/paint/laquer (if any for a rim)? any other considerations? thanks...a decent answer would be much apreciated

this....time to get the spray out...would look pretty good with them in black!

as someone mentioned, a little plate on the underside would reduce the chances of a break....just to spread out the 'clamping' force of the nuts on the frame....the force would be reduced at least 10 fold able to get hold of a small section of half pipe? a hacksaw and a hammer/vice and youre sorted

you can go crazy and maybe link certain moves/lines with the odd sidehop or gap...

anyone please?!

so recently ive had my rear pro2 crack...about to send it to the guys at hope and see if theres anything they can do, in the mean time with the rim currently sitting there i decided it was time to spice up my fourplay im currently using white 24" trialtech rims. i was thinking of nitromorsing them and spraying them black.....a few questions... 1. are there any considerations i should have when spraying a rim over any other part? 2. im aware that they may be subjected to flex (side to side?) so thought perhaps this could crack a home paint job? 3. if it is ok to do...is there a brand of paint anyone recommends? how many layers of paint/laquer should i be considering for rims (may as well as now incase - for the frame too)? any help would be appreciated thanks! the tarty guys seem pretty up on theirr custom paint jobs....id be interested to hear what they have to say about thier experiences

that looks amazing!.....marino ti colour? im genuinely considering stripping my inspired and if possible, getting a similar sort of effect somehow....looking forward to see it built up

nice riding, good to see a video where the rider obviously enjoys themselves...agree with a few of the others here though, crazy editing was a bit OTT

2:35 - loved it

thanks for the replies guys...turns out im a retard and missed the signifigant crack in the hubshell!! a year of riding...i need to get a little smoother im thinking

im just wondering....after reading a 26" is the pinnacle... any thoughts on the hypothetical - 19" (actual) , 21", 22", 23" , 25" ....... 27" etc you get where im going here!

evening all... right, i have a problem with the freewheel (think its called that) on a pro2 hub. ive heard lots of people talk about 'skipping' in topics ive looked at but im not entirely sure what that is...id assume it meant skipping an engagement whilst applying pressure on the pedal?! anyway, its not that...whats happening is when i pedal the cranks backwards turning the sprocket, it seems to catch/snag/get stuck on somthing on the inside...sometimes missing an engagement or two untill you overcome it with a little force i took the wheel off and tried turning it by hand...it seems to sometimes move round freely (hold the sprocket and spin the wheel) depending on the angle i hold the wheel at. sometimes you feel the slight catch each revolution, sometimes its quite signifigant ive no idea how this could come about...no problems or issues ever before with it....im wondering whether i need to take the full freewheel/pawls section off the hub, open it up and clean it? if it does just need cleaned, are there any other products that may be suitable? i know gunk gets rid of allmost all crap on anything...but getting it all lubed up again may be an issue....does it sound more like a mechanical fault? any help would be much appreciated ta

yes, there will be a plateau take any movement down to its very basics with technique not being a factor...you are looking at the individual contraction of various muscles looking at say the bicep muscle individually....you are contracting the muscle, trying to essentially lift a set weight from A to B in as quick a time as possible. to do this most effectively, you need a decent core strength of the muscle (ie the ability and ease of the muscle to lift that weight) coupled with the 'fast twitch fibres' (ie the speed at which they contract to lift the weight). how many fast twitch fibres a person has (from what i know) are very much decided on your genetics....there will be a maximum theoretical speed that your muscle can potentially contract (after training), and no matter how much additional training of any sort, you wont increase that. to properly train a muscle though, like you said it needs to be exerted - this actually results in tiny little tears of the muscle fibre, allowing the body to bridge the tears, fixing the muscle and obviously increasing its mass. when you reach a point where the action (ie the gap) is not exerting the muscle, but just utilising it to its full potential...you will cease to see any physical gains. to reach that point purely through trials though will be a long long process! for example....if the 'gapping' action requires a force equivalent to lifting 10kg with your bicep, the ease of this will come about far quicker if you train to lift 20kg...the 10kg will only be using the muscle to 50% of its potential and feel (compared to if you didnt train to lift 20kg) half the weight. to get the muscle to that sort of condition just using only 10kg weights would take signifigantly longer, and involve long, drawn out, elaborate exercises you need to balance up though whether the gains will benefit you....will being able to lift 20kg rather than just 10kg benefit you if the exercise you are performing involves lifting a 200g weight? if you could lift 20kg...thats using the muscle to 1% of its potential if you could lift 10kg...thats using the muscle to 2% of its potential (only 1% difference compared to 50% above?! - barely noticeable, this will be very close to the 'plateau')

i had a shocking crash doing exactly this!!! i was in the very early stages of static wheel hops or 'pedal punches' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Eo_0-asxx4&feature=related in the early stages though, it was like i was doing mini pedal hops but keeping the front wheel low and landing on two wheels....i was aware of my body weight shifting back, slightly lifting the front and driving from the rear - lunging forward. what happened though as a result of my incorrect technique is that my rear wheel wasnt far enough up a ledge...so when i kicked the pedal forward, the bike stayed in the same place and i went over the bars and landed on my face...handstand on bars into a failed flip followed by a bike on top of me i think (could be wrong) that the technique needed initially may be the same as above, but obviously slightly shifting the weight to the rear for the landing... if im wrong, apologies for the nonsense;)