chris4stars

i was thinking that putting the effort into setting up the mono correctly or a change of pads would be more worthwhile? not being wide (i never set mine up, it was just how it came from tarty)...my mono locks the wheel without too much effort so the potential is definately there

under trousers - football shin pads will be fine with shorts - search on ebay / google for cycling shin guards and see whats cheapest if you can stretch to 20-30 - 661 veggies every time

amazing, well done what im wondering now though is whats next.....

dont want to put a spanner in the works.... surely there has been some reason 95% of brakes have been put on the front of the fork in all areas of biking (obviously before the discs became as popular). i remember pace forks (i think) having a rear mount but thats about it?

NO road bikes were harmed during the making of this video

never usually enjoy mod vids as much but that i did like very nice

Great little vid there

For explanations, mini clips and a pretty good grounding in almost all moves...all set out in an easy to follow way http://www.trashzen.com/index.php for another take on most moves - Mastering the art of trials with Ryan Leech, you can get the dvd or look up each individual move on youtube this is the little video for the trackstand, looking down the side at other videos by sergitogt and you'll see alot of the other moves he covers

magnesium bits and pieces you know those anti wheelie bars you see on drag cars? one of those, but pretty small...just set up past the balance point for manuals (a manual stabiliser essentially) because im having a mare in learning them

you could speculate for ages based on previous experience / size / riding style youd prefer but for the money you may potentialy shell out its still a gamble probably the best option out of them all (in my opinion) is to find a number of riders near to where you stay....get in touch, meet up, have a go!? if youre not a tool, everyone is usually happy to help and you get to meet the riders you'll no doubt be hoping to ride with in future anyway win. win.

Height: 177cm Weight: 75kg Style: street Your Bike... Type: 24 Weight: no idea...but its a solid build on a fourplay Frame: inspired fourplay Forks: inspired Headset: standard hope Stackers: 20mm Stem: hope 90x10 Bars: inspired 720mm wide / 88mm high / 9 degrees on both sweeps Cranks: 170mm trialtechs BB: no idea Finally... Comments: its a bunnyhoping machine! it can feel a little cramped for static trials stuff but as a result it does feel alot 'flickier'. very comfortable pivoting/bouncing on the front wheel aswell with the bars slightly forward (whilst maintaining bunny hoping fun)

im not too sure on how different the holyroller is to the highroller.... within the last couple of days ive gone from diggers front and rear to a digger on the front and hiroller on the rear...the difference was enough to make me not go back edit* ignore all the above! haha, cheers luke

haha thanks guys - didnt quite expect that ! just shows what you can get when you put the time in i guess?! im lucky with the amount of days off i have....its going to be a good summer

first posting of a video on here and i know how it can be with comments! negative is fine, try to be constructive though and not a tit about it... been riding for around 6months now and with time off work and yesterdays weather i figured id film some bits and pieces (all done with that sony "hd" camera phone and some blutac for anyone curious). unfortunately its only facebook ive uploaded it to! privacy settings are for everyone to see but if it doesnt work i'll make a youtube account and go down that route http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=693863131171&saved#!/video/video.php?v=693863131171&ref=mf

http://www.trashzen.com/biketrial-wheel-swap.php personally, the explanations on here so far just went clear enough...no offence guys

even if in theory it does damage the brake over time (im not sure how long, theres lots of positive comments for 2-3years+) its worth it for those 2-3 years a water bleed literally takes no time at all, only 2/3 minutes on your own and you can have the full system flushed out and working again with a fresh bleed...even quicker if you have a helper for the difference in feel (i use the braided hose and used royal blood for a while before changing) its worth the money youd fork out if you did need to replace the brake every 2 years...as a result of having a lighter and easier to control brake, im sure i have avoided an injury of some sorts. i have more confidence in the brake, my riding is progressing faster as a result...its win win win etc in my opinion

3 pages of chat about it, and my opinion is somewhere within it http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=151693 that was the only one i noticed on the first page, im sure there are plenty of topics you could show to your dad to help persuade

not sure if the difference was as big for others, but id rather buy a new magura each year and keep a water bleed than go back to royal blood! not only has a more responsive brake no doubt saved my ass a number of times, the boost to my confidence and enjoyment in riding as a result is well worth it....along with the amount of people who havent had any problems with it in the first place, and the ability to quickly and easily get a perfect bleed, i cant see why id ever go back

rib cap the egg test - "the ribcap doesnt comply with any standards established for protective headgear like helmets" shamus pretty much summed up my thoughts on the helmet, it is a a good idea though...and when it becomes a little more tried and tested in the real world, or in slightly more accurate experiments than a melon then i could be tempted. if anyones interested and didnt already know...custard has a very similar property! give it a slap and it goes hard....

check out - Faq: Is This A Good First Bike? on this page...its coverered briefly in there

so ive heard it makes sence that for each "trials" move, there is an optimum wheel size as JD said...(optimum in terms of what is achieveable, personal preference obviously still plays a big part) (no shooting me down here, i am just wondering as a beginner 24" rider with no experience of mod/stock!) in terms of geometry within the "stock" genre at least, there seems to be a large range of frames available with varying geometries. Ive heard a few people talk about the large differences in feel between one frame and another and state their personal preferences of what bb rise, length etc would be ideal for them... so im wondering if within the 24" genre, the inspired (for example) is the equivalent of a stock with slightly more extreme geometry that some people will obviously not warm to, or whether it falls into a different catagory altogether if you get me?

I cant see how the meaning from such a graph can not make sence? I think the point made from it is very clear For one, dont shoot the messenger...I did state that I was purely taking what I read on here. A graph like that is as much to make a point to those claiming one wheel size is better than another for x,y and z reasons. Over the last few months ive seen countless comments about "trials riding" on a 24" bike, and how its not up there with mod or stock. It made me wonder (hence the graph) what a theoretical 21" 22" etc would feel like, and why there seems to be this dip in the middle

I think its pretty clear that I am not refering to a downhill bike or BMX. With your response, I assume a longer and higher 24" will be suitable for "trials" related stuff? Is the whole argument about geometry and not wheel size?

Forgive the crude graph...but it pretty much speaks for itself. As someone who isnt that in the know about such things, is this the case? Just from what ive read over the last however long on here, 20" and 26" seem to be the optimum size?