chris4stars

agreed thanks for the tips everyone

either my tree trunk legs or some poor landings on the bashring have caused the chain to snap after just 8 weeks! at a guess...its probably the latter... the chain was the thinner KMC chain, and after going along to the LBS and finding a K710 (the fatter one, the guy said it was one up from mine) i found that it wouldnt fit through the tensioner.... i checked tarty and they suggest a washer in each side of the wheels...which is easy enough for the lower one as its just a nut and bolt setup. the upper wheel though has some strange bolt with a groove at the end with one of those clips to hold the thing in place? hopefully someone will know what im talking about anyway, i was wondering if anyone knew what this sort of bolt was called so i know what to ask for, and where the best place to get a slightly longer one would be... also, if anyone else uses the same tensioner, if its a) worth changing in the first place to run a fatter chain? or can be fixed using another type of bolt?

as to your answer.... i typed: ("onza internal headset" weight) into google...without brackets, just making it clear if youd like to look yourself second result, the small snippet from tarty (probably from when they used to sell them): Onza Internal Headset. £10.21. Basket x 2 Loading ... Add To Basket ... Includes top cap and star nut. - Complete weight: 130g. Internal Headset ... *edit - i also typed in "titanium internal headset" and came across a whole load of bmx internal headsets...not sure if they are compatible. a few even have claimed to be "superlightweight"

any chance of actually getting the spec?! despite your complaints on people not staying on topic, there have been a number of replies with the intention of helping. for such a small question though, and the amount of effort involved...it may have been worthwhile to contact monty (on onza too if you didnt want to weigh yours) for an exact weight, or perhaps a quick call to tarty? as so many weight topics on here have shown, some peoples scales can be weeeeigh out! (made me smile) and as a result, barely help you. though you recieved a fair amount of (justified) comments against the idea, you still could have responded with a much better attitude in my opinion...it is a forum and a place for discussion, not a q&a website! after all, it is all the members advice that you'll be relying on now, and in future. as the start of my reply suggests, im curious....if someone is at the point where they are paying out 50 quid to lighten a headset, there must have been a fair amount of upgrading an weight saving done on every other aspect of the bike?! please enlighten.

hmmm.....i reckon if you go out riding with the mindset of wanting to progress or 'train' and look at things in a very technical way, then this sort of progression is easy enough to achieve. i personally do that alot, and ride to work and back (which im guessing helps a little without realising) been riding an inspired for about 6 weeks despite the weather.. balance is pretty good id say considering sidehop to both wheels (from rear or starting on both) - probably in line or just above the top of the wheel at most just now landing to rear is still just over a foot or so bunnyhop to rear is about the same height as sidehops 3/4 hops on front 180 endos along walls both ways and just over a bike length in gaps (started those the other day) obviously there are plenty of times i dont make it! but still...i go out at least every other day with the minset that im going to learn something new...and wont stop till i know ive improved! when looking at the moves, i break them down into sections and view things in quite a clinical way. quite often set up my phone camera and see for myself what im doing wrong...it may not be the coolest - but it works for me its no doubt achieveable by alot of riders on here, just depends how you approach it i reckon Edit* and great pics btw!!

are you in edinburgh too mikey?

with reguards to finding a shop over there, im not sure what the trials scene is like in the us...but you may be surprised! i could be wrong, but even in the big cities here, finding a bike shop that sells trials bikes/parts is extremely hard! in the event of you finding one though, unless the dealer regularly works with these bikes, its unlikely they will have close to the knowledge needed to help guide you to what you really want... (i could be wrong, maybe im just a cynic!) as for a good starter bike...check out the cheaper 20" bikes on the website i mentioned....i personally couldnt help you with pointing out particular model, but youre looking at around £400+ if you can be more open about getting second hand though, you can get lots more for your money...quite often you'll find people buy these bikes, ride them a little but dont really get into it that much...then after having them sit about the garage for months, sell them. they may have a few marks, but with the nature of the riding, thats just something you have to get used to! theres a huge wealth of knowledge on here...hopefully someone more in the know about starter 20" will see the topic too on a side note...check out the 'observed trials' bike forum. its more american based, and could possibly be your best bet to meet up with locaql riders, and actually have a shot at the bikes they are using! could save you plenty of time and money being able to have a shot first!

unfortunately it is just a case of practice! i know that sounds like a pretty pants answer, but in my opinion its something that will come naturally without any specific thinking....i'll try to explain... if you can imagine you have just learnt to walk..(hypothetically), learning to run would be the natural progression... you'll be aware that your limbs are moving faster, and your balance may not be as good. but there isnt a specific action of part of your body, or skill required to make the progression any easier. the changes in balance are too small really to be instructed by someone else..its just something you need to learn for yourself if youre only doing 3 or 4 hops (and only after an endo). rather than going for height or distance, i would work on getting your balance and 'small' hop sorted first. try starting the hop from stationary - pull up on the bars, or even do a mini wheelie to get the front end up. try small little hops on the spot. check out ryan leeches video too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cuo7BslZXz8&feature=related honestly....if you get the basics sorted before going bigger, your technique and riding will improve huge amounts. theres no rush remember

Welcome First things first, you need a bike... Though this is a site based in the uk which isnt ideal for you...its probably where 90% of us get 95% of our stuff! (if buying new anyway). Theres plenty of good quality pics to actually see the bikes in detail, a pretty good video guides section taking you through alot of the components, aswell as videos of some pretty amazing riders. An idea place to start to get an idea of things... http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/index.html This site is a pretty handy. Theres a pretty comprehensive guide for a good amount of tricks. http://www.trashzen.com/index.php The next is a youtube link to ryan leeches short video guides to trials. if you click on the 'more from ***' section, you should see the huge amount available...from basic to pretty complex moves. For me, these are pretty much the best instructional videos available. Enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QChuqk57gWQ&feature=channel

think its holyrood park at 12?! bristo is ideal for me, not sure about changing just incase anyone doesnt get the new plan

you were?! oh right...thanks for pointing that out back on topic now...

couple of new pics added, old ones deleted for those wondering abut the bar position on a 90x10 stem (still running 15mm of spacers)

i think thats why? have you checked the pad review section and found anyone with your pads? have you taken into consideration the recommendation from tarty bikes for what seems to be an identical pad?! pad compounds these days vary so much...and are often created with a particular set up in mind. whether its a magura or a V on the pack, the same principle is happening...a rubber compound pushed onto the rim by an external force. im sure after checking out tarty's website, and looking through the pad reviews, you'll see that some pads are better suited to smooth rims and others for a grind (even then certain grinds work better than others)

im with matthew on this one used to have a datatag (the same, if not a very similar concept) on my mountain bike years ago. it was only after getting it done did i think about how relatively pointless the idea is on slightly more expensive and less common bikes. if a frame, and whatever else left of it is recovered by the police, the chances of it needing to be officially identified are extremely unlikely, especially as their will be a police report previous of a bike of that description being stolen. with a trials bike...it becomes even less useful, how many people have these bikes?! there will no doubt be pictures/photos you'll already have of the bike itself, and the person who stole it will have quite a job trying to convince the police it is theirs considering the specialised nature of it!

it was the inspired in the end....cleaned up the look of the front end along with a few other little bits and pieces! they feel great, though surprisingly different (in my opinion) to the V!Z 720's, slightly more compact than the 10mm difference would suggest. setup wise, they are tilted as far forward as i can get them for pivoting on the front wheel without loosing the ease of bunny hopping. will get a pic up pretty soon...as a front end set up on the inspired that seems to be the best of both worlds, its great

quite the decision in 24minutes! it is almost like that was the original plan....almost (unless the chris king hubs mention was genuinely because you thought that may be a factor too.....or am i just sceptical?!)

90mm blue hope +1 exactly what im using...check out my profile for it onthe bike (bars have since changed as well as other bits)

haha genius....refer to my reply just above yours...its been edited...

From 'Read this FIRST' for the new members:* •Use the Spell Checker, it doesnt take long! •Dnt use txt tlk •Use descriptive topic titles, try not to use topic titles such as 'help!', 'Problem with....', 'where', and instead try and put as much information in as possible •Try and put as much information into your posts as possible, don't leave people guessing what you mean (this is not MSN!) •Do not spam/post irrelevant messages •Dont get involved in arguments, use the report button. If you are argumentative you seriously reduce your chances of getting validated •Do NOT post new threads asking when you will be validated* •Do NOT post new threads asking why you cant post anywhere else •For Sale/Wanted/Swap threads are not allowed in New Members Chat •Do NOT email us when you realise you cant post anywhere else •Do NOT cross post between Members Chat forums and New Members Chat •Harassing Admins/Moderators via PM/Email/MSN WILL NOT get you validated any faster See you in the forums, Tom & Danny *edit

thought id make a little bump to combine all this topics at the top of the new members forum! surely this is just a case of 'point proven' edit* alas i didnt manage to get it alongside his other post made after this selling the bike!

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=148065