rupintart

If you insists on using tar instead of grinding, using the proper name will help you not look like an idiot. It's called Kettle Tar.

Building up an STP and the brake pads on the BB7 were rubbish. Aztek somethings. I know they were broken in, but they didn't lock for shit. So I'm looking for new pads. What's the biggest difference between the organic, semi, and sintered in terms of performance? I don't give two shits about pad life/wear, just performance. Mainly them locking up. I hate not being able to trust my brakes. I replaced the azteks with some Avid Organics, took them outside and they seem to brake like shit too. Better out of the box than what was on there, but still shit. How long do they typically take to break in to where I can lock the wheel? I rode them down a bridge, and still just suck. Usually that does the trick after one pass, but these not so much. BTW, it's a 203mm rotor with the grey OG Avid calipers.

http://www.paulcomp.com Most any bike shop that uses QBP has it, but in the UK, I dunno what distro most shops use.

Don't want to turn this into a danny mac thread either. Just saying it's designed to be a streety bike, so I made it a bit more streety It has a bash, but it's a 1/4 bash by Shadow Conspiracy: If you look closely on the last pic, you can make it out. It works awesome and saves a bit of weight. The brakes work well. Super stiff because everything is CNC'd. PITA to set-up, but once it's set, it's dialed. I haven't gotten a chance to really flog her hard since the new lever and cable because of my broken finger, but since I've been out of the splint for a week, I may give a try today. Not a cloud in the sky!

How is it a weak brake? 3-piece cranks, aren't all trials cranks 3-piece as well? It's likely lighter AND stronger than most all those trials cranks. I have a BMX, and it gets ridden regularly, two totally different feels. But isn't that what the Inspired is for, a trials bike that's BMXy (or a BMX cruiser that's trialsy?)??? I mean, Danny Mac vids had hardly any trials on it, they were all BMX videos on 24's with a couple pedal kicks here and there. I don't understand why anybody would buy an inspired and ride almost strictly trials or ride a long stem on it. It makes it much harder to lift the front end, i.e makes it more like a trials bike and harder to bunny or 180. Short stem and taller bars makes it MUCH easier to lift up the front, manual, etc. If you're gonna ride pure trials, get a pure trials bike. But yeah, the front end I went through a bunch of stems with, 100 with risers, 90mm with a 2 inch bar, then an 80 with a 2in. Finally decided to just get 3in bars and a 50mm stem and it felt like it should have been like that the entire time. Super easy and light feeling front end, but still way at home on the rear. Kinda funny cause I thought it was a great combo, and apparently TRA also thought so: http://trarider.webs.com/mybike.htm Thought it was interesting and that I was the only one who thought it felt good that way. Apparently, he beat me to it with the same bar and stem like a week before.

Yeah, he still makes stuff, but not derailleurs. He caters to the Single speed market. Stuff is super nice. That lever was custom(sort of) for me, so that it would match the Hope. They only make all black or all silver, and I wanted it to be silver and black, so he hooked me up!!! Super nice guy, small company and everything is almost handled by him personally! Thanks for the compliments!

It is stiff as shit. Believe it or not, all the flex I get comes from the cable and housing. I may end up switching to to some sort of linear cable. Although, I haven't gotten to ride it since I put on the Paul Lever and XTR cable other than just messing about in the driveway. Stupid broken pinky makes riding impossible.

With TGS, it's all about being on the back wheel, so who cares if it's a barge on two wheels. Maybe I'm missing something?

It's more like a regular brake, i.e. it's not an on-off switch like HS33s with a grind are.

Pretty much boils down like above mate said. HS33 pros: Strongest grab (physics) Nothing obtrusive to bash on Plenty of pad options Cons: Crossover hose easy to break if no booster PITA to bleed You have to grind your rim for them to work perfectly Disc pros: Quiet same performance regardless of conditions great modulation Disc cons: Slightly heavier wheel build You can bend rotors which is the biggest detractor of all You'll have fanboys of each saying X is better than X because of X. Meh...just get whichever you feel like getting, the one that your frame is designed for, and whatever fits your budget. You'll have a tons of people even be huge fans of Vees for the rear. Same pros and cons as HS33's except no bleeding, less to break, simpler, and cheaper. Thing that sucks about Vees is you pretty much have to know how to set them up good or they'll suck. Two people can have the same set-up and they can feel completely different. Generally speaking you should have XTR levers, XTR cables and a good set of pads and a booster, or they're useless.

Quick breakdown of parts: Pauls brake with Pauls lever and Salsa Booster Heatsink backings with coust pads XTR cables Hope Trials front brake DK Social cranks w/Magnesium and Ti DK Distortion pedals Hope Hubs Rhylite front Hazzard Lite rear Spank 70mm Tweet bar and 50mm stem KHE lock-ons KHE Park2 tires Bike weighs around 22lbs without anything weight conscious other than the pedals and tires. Pretty bombproof build. Can't remember, been a good minute since I weighed her after I switched out some parts. I used to not care for higher pressure tires for trialsy stuff, but I've gotten used to it. That and like stated somewhere else, anything less than 90psi and these tires suck, I run them at 115-120. I switched back to holy rollers one weekend and absolutely could not stand the added weight. Bike felt mad sluggish and so hard to toss around.

Rub one out every morn before work. Sstarts the day off right!

Rear wheel pivots are a lot trickier than the front because you do not have pivot point, i.e the headset. You can pretty much look straight down, and still pivot. With the rear, you have to turn your head and shoulders to point your torso where you wanna go. It is significantly harder because of the problem you stated, getting the front wheel up. On the front wheel, most of your weight is already there and you can pretty much just lift your legs and shift the bike. With the rear, you have to get the front up, and twist with your shoulders. It takes a bit more body language, even more than you initially think. The trick to getting the front up is leaning back HARD, or do a slight pedal to help get the front up. If you're wanting to get 180 degrees, you'll notice that the 1st 90 degrees are the front coming up, the next 45 are with the bike up, and the last 45 are on the down end. Get in the push-up position on your knees, and to do a 180 pivot on your knees, notice how much shoulder twist and movement you need and how hard you have to push(pull) up. Look at where you want to go and lift and twist your shoulders. Do the same thing, but on the bike. It's a pretty similar movement. Anything more than 180, and I can't really help you as I'm not very consistent with more than 180 and not leaving the ground. For me to get more than 180, I have to hop. But good luck!

Isn't that kinda the point with TGS? That's comfy on the rear wheel? And if it's comfy on the rear wheel, it's easier to move about on as far as TGS goes.

Just do like you thought, build up a 26" street/dirt bike and just raise up the post for the times when you don't feel like doing tricks and just want to commute/pedal. Something like a Giant STP, Mob, etc.

holy shit...never seen them either then.

Pauls Lever + XTR Cable + Pauls Motolite + Heatsink Coust pads + Salsa Booster = Best rear brake I've ever ridden

You can manual or bunny ANY bike. It's just a matter of how far/much back you have to lean to over come the long stays and lower BB. My buddy can bunny barspin a beach cruiser. Alot of those things factor in, so if you're getting acustom frame, and want to bunny/manual, don't go anywhere near the geometry of the bike you're on now. Also, 28 inch? The wheels? There's no such thing. 700c, 27" or 29"(which is 700c, just fatter tires). In any case, all of those suck for anything other than keeping both tires on the ground and pedaling to where you need to go.

Oh, I wasn't nec arguing with you, but I was just saying there's alot of these newbies who have these huge sidehops, but can BARELY stand on the back wheel, and sometimes, barely trackstand. And if you notice, they're doing everything from flat to flat, i.e. ledges. They have no balance really, they're just trying to go as big as possible, but have hardly ANY of the fundamentals down. It makes you much more a of a solid rider to get those things down before trying anything on the rear, and when you finally get there, you won't have these questions like "how to I get the front wheel up?" or "I can't seem to stay on the rear long enough" or things of that nature. All those questions really go away with saddle time from practicing your balance. Don't get me wrong, I actually prefer urban to rocks (most of the time, it is nice to change it up once in awhile), it's just painful to watch these people then later hear them gloating all over the forums about how big they can go etc. Maybe I'm just getting old, hahaha. Def a good tip. You'll learn so much more from just riding with people better than you. Tips, feedback, and live examples all murder any sort of intraweb-videoz analyzing. Case in point: go ride your bike.

She asked him like a month after the April video. He declined the appearance.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/danny-macaski...times-2009.html NY Times article: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/12/29/sports/g...&ref=sports Pretty interesting. He's definitely giving trials and the biking industry a good name.

I always say this to newbies because it eliminates many of the stupid questions down the road that involve needing good balance from the get go. There's no need to work harder than you have to. IMO atleast, I'd rather work and learn smarter that try to jump straight into things and have all these horrible habits because I skipped all the basics. A perfect example is a handstand. How many people can handstand, and how many people can walk on their hands? More often than not (about 99% of people), people can walk on their hands, but not a handstand in one spot without wiggling all over the place or having to take small steps. i.e. just stand there on their hands. They don't really know how to handstand, they just know how to throw their weight in one direction and compensate by moving their hands to walk forward. It's not really walking on your hands, it's moving to keep yourself from falling. It's like anything, if you take the time to learn how to do it properly the first time rather than take shortcuts, in the end, you'll be a lot better at it than the person who took all the shortcuts. And more often than not, in a shorter amount of time as you'll have a better, more thorough understanding. It just takes more patience. Something MANY people do not have. I've noticed as of late, you have all these kids on these pogo sticks who can sidehop bar height, but can't ride across 5 parking blocks to save their lives because their balance is rubbish. So who's a better rider? The kid that can sidehop bar height, and that's about it, or the kid who has good balance and has a broader variety of skills. I vote the latter.

Coust pads own all other pads. I dunno how a shit bleed would affect how your pads wear, but whatev. Pads being SQUARE to the rim though, will make a HUGE difference in pad life.

Nice. Get a booster on there. Both for performance, but breaking crossovers and lines sucks. Shit, just bleeding maggies sucks. that alone should be reason enough, haha.

Oh yeah, be able to pivot on the front wheel both ways, and with either foot forward. Those two things alone should keep you more than occupied for a month. If you want to get even more ocd about it, learn to pivot both ways (and with both feet) on the rear too. For me, that was WAAAY harder than learning to pivot both ways on the front. I still can't pivot for shit both ways switch foot.