rupintart

Oh, and it has ankle protection. The inner topline of the shoe is higher to protect your inside ball of your ankle. So it's good for tailwhips:) Also, due to the design of how it is on your foot, it's REALLY hard to roll your ankle because of of how it has the inner ankle protection. Like I said, best shoe I've ever used.

I own them, and the fact that they're white doesn't mean anything. The material they use is similar to vinyl and it doesn't get dirty. The sole is almost too grippy. I can't adjust my foot position on my pedals without lifting my foot off the pedal. Another super plus is they come with an additional support, like a hard plastic insert that you put under the insoles that has an adhesive on one side so it stays put. It makes the shoe even stiffer than it already is. I can't recommend them enough. If you watch the beginning of the Danny Mac April vid, it's the shoe he's wearing. But seriously, if you watch the NWD vids, and you pay attention to the shoes alot of people are wearing, it's the AM40s. *edit* Forgot to mention that I use DK Distorion Magnesium pedals, and they grip like they're clipped in. Even on plastic pedals, these things grip great. So if you have good pedals, they grip even better.

For sure. I ALMOST built up a Philwood or Paul with a FW, but after you're all said and done, you still have the weak link of the freewheel possibly failing on you and it's about the same weight if not heavier IIRC.

Oh, I know the Pro2 isn't the lightest thing out there, but 98 grams of dead weight is meh. But yeah, it's always good to see both sides. The biggest problem with threaded hubs and cranks is most people don't prep them, and/or end up stripping out the threads either from user error, or just plain shoddy quality. They are kind of a PITA to take off, you need a tool. I just like simplicity even if it is at the expense of a LITTLE weight. Now if it were like a pound or so heavier, of course I might be considering other options, but 98g is pretty insignificant in the scope of things when it comes to reliability of your drivetrain and it being the last thing on your mind.

18/15 is the same as 22/18. 18/15 is 1.2 and 22/18 is 1.222 . That's about as close as you're gonna get. 22t chain rings are everywhere so it won't be anything special and everything is off the shelf. Middleburns with a 22t ring and a Hope2 rear hub is pretty damn bombproof.

The engagement on Pro2's obviously won't be as quick as any of the newer trials freewheels. It's only 48 as compared to 108 or 72. BUT, they don't have problems like most all the freewheels do. I would prefer less/no hassle and slightly worse engagement, than problems and maintenance. I don't care if it's rebuild-able, downtime is downtime. And downtime sucks. Let alone the suck factor of removing a freewheel to rebuild it. Maybe I'm just lazy. I even prefer the Hopes over Kings because Kings have maintenance, need proprietary tools to completely disassemble, the cones come loose, great hubs, but I HATE maintenance. As for the rims...dunno what to tell you. If you're dead set on the trialtechs, no matter what anybody tells you, you've likely already made up you mind on rim choice.

1:23 Holy shit man, do the drivers in the UK always keep on the look-out for trials guys jumping to rails into the street? Here in the US, you probably would have been hit.

Pedals see SIGNIFICANTLY more stress than any stem. Using the plastic pedal as an example is also a horrible comparison. The modern BMX stems are made from like 9-10 oz of aluminum. You can't tell me you have a lot of faith in something that's a double the weight of a beer can, but you have no faith in a high quality PVC stem simply because of it's material???? All things are likely to have some failure rate, but I don't think that stem, aside from some idiot tightening the shit out of it stripping the threads, it fail. Can't wait to see how this stem fares though. I'll reserve my judgement after i see some videos of it's use.

The question you asked is like asking somebody "what's better, Fettucini Alfredo or Spaghetti?" "How about which one tastes better, an red pepper or a green pepper?" There is no answer, those are all preference. Now, if you were asking "Which of these best performs better for STREET?" And that's about it, because you can't ask "Which is better for natty? Urban?" I mean, some people prefer mods over stock and vice versa and one isn't better than the other in either category. Street is really the only differentiation in saying it's better for that genre. You can pretty much only compare the two mods, and it will be very hard to find somebody that has ridden both. And even then, the geometry is preference if they're spec'd the same as they're fairly the same quality. I LOVE to ride my buddy's mod, but I would personally never own a mod and will always own a stock or 24 because that's my preference.

Torn or sprained ligaments are FAR worse than broken bones. I've broken my thumb before, and 8 weeks later I was able to use it limitedly, and had FOM back within another month. Full strength back in 2 months. I got mallet finger a couple months back, my pinky is straight and healed, but you can definitely tell it's nowhere near as strong as before (small things like, scrubbing your scalp in the shower, you notice it's weak), and I have a feeling it will always be that way. Fast forward a month and I hyper-extended my knee. Let it heal for 2 months, felt perfectly fine, went to go ride the bike and I guess I strained it or pulled it, because it was massive pain to straighten the next day. Once straight, the pain was gone, till I tried to bend it again. Weight on it didn't bother it what so ever, it was movement. Took 2 weeks to make that pain subside. Subside, not heal. To this day, my knee sucks. The actual motions of pedaling do not hurt or irritate the knee. Large drops don't hurt it, running doesn't hurt it, tumbling in gymnastics doesn't hurt it. What hurts it is the scooping action when you bunny hop or sidehop, or pedal up and lift the bike underneath you (think hamstring curls at the gym). THAT'S what irritates it. And it won't bother me when I'm riding so much (I'm aware of it however) it's the days, and sometimes 2-3 weeks after that it kills me and I limp around. So in short, ease into it SLOWLY. Nothing worse than thinking it healed "good enough" so you can go ride, only to find out, you need to take another break off the bike for another couple weeks. That's worse than not haven been able to ride the entire time. The itch to ride again sucks, the pain of not being able to ride AGAIN because you were impatient, is far worse.

Cut/Pasted from another post I made: My personal take on things (which many may not agree with) 20 - you like to do a lot of static things like gaps and sidehops...pretty much things from a standstill. Easier to throw around on natty because of size and weight, but you also get the disadvantage of a smaller wheel on the natty not rolling as easy. 26 - Feels more like a regular bike, but not. Better for rolling things where you can really take advantage of the large wheel size like taps, etc. You can be a bit more sloppy on the stock and not pay for it (taps really suck the ass on a mod). Going big seems like it take a bit more effort from static, but rolling things like pedal-ups, etc seem to work out a little better. 24 - I don't think there are enough geometry differences/choices on the 24market to really categorize it as anything other than streety spinny BMX type stuff. Obviously, you can do anything on any bike, street on a mod, streety stuff on a stock, pure trials on a 24 etc, but that's what I've found personally each "size" does.

IINM it has the same geometry as an Inspired, only a shorter front end. So it would feel pretty close.

Wow, the heatsink coust pads are the best pads I've ever used. Didn't know there was a difference between the Heatsink and the "real". Might have to give the "og" ones a shot.

If you look at my first post, I never said they were LIGHTER, I said that BMX cranks aren't nearly as heavy as people made them out to be: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=147950&view=findpost&p=2078922 As for the small wheels and high pressure thing, it's simple physics that a smaller wheel with rock hard tires is going to be more abusive on the rest of the parts than a large tire and low psi. The impact forces are dissipated through the lower pressure and the larger wheels. You don't think that has an adverse affect on anything and is all negligible? Look at what a difference of 10psi does on your wrist when riding your BMX. Think about what 50+ psi and a loss of 6 inches in diameter does to parts. Jump off a 6 foot high ledge on a BMX bike with 100psi tires, then jump off the same ledge on your MTB at 50psi. You can't tell me there isn't a difference in impact forces to your body. Your body isn't a perfect machine. The load isn't Aalways pressing straight down on cranks. Your legs aren't on a track and only pressing down. You can't say that there aren't ANY yaw loads on your cranks when pressing down. If that were the case, your cranks would never work loose because there's never any side loads on it. The very nature of pedaling and keeping balance is more than enough of an example of your cranks seeing yaw loads. The amount is obviously varied depending on what's doing on. Having 100% spline interface is just more secure and the maximum amount of surface area is on my crank arms. It would be stupid to say that not having 100% interface, and having it, there isn't a bit of difference. I never said it was the end all of crank problems, it just significantly minimizes everything from going wrong and I have no problems on mine, and every person I've seen that has has not had problems. Not to say that it can't, but I have never seen it happen. In the end, I can tell you my crank arms are on 100% and in two years of ownership haven't EVER had the need to tighten them after installation. I have had ZERO problems with them in the two years of ownership, they have seen dirt jumps, and the abuse of a 230lb friend both on DJs and urban. Never once have come loose or have problems. I think I can safely say that those cranks have been exposed to more than enough abuse to show that they're more than reliable and those things speak volumes for their quality. Which is more than I can say for Dengs stuff. I don't care if X person says theirs keeps coming loose or can't stay tight. I didn't install it and it's not mine, so I can't say the same as that person. FOR ME, they've worked out perfectly.

I have NEVER needed a hammer to install the axle into BMX bb bearings. If you loosely fit one arm onto the spindle, you have enough surface area to just push them through. Lets also let it be clear that we're comparing a steel crankset to an AL on (the trials cranks). If you want to compare AL BMX cranks to trials cranks, you'll find that the BMX cranks in most cases ARE lighter. But generally speaking, as for BMX cranks lighter than trials cranks, everything being FFW makes it a little harder to compare, but I pointed out the weight of burns compared to BMX cranks in an earlier post. Not really lighter, but I pointed out that the BMX cranks aren't nearly as heavy as people are making them out to be. A couple months back BrettM showed that you can build a lighter drivetrain set-up with Burns and a King, than FFW when he switched back from a FFW drivetrain. Seems a bit more fair to compare it in that regard as a drivetrain as a whole because you're able to factor in your freewheel weight, and if it's not FFW, people will say "well, I have to add in the weight of a freewheel when you don't". So as a whole, I think Brett pointed out it was something like 500-600 grams lighter going King/Burns. When I was thinking of converting from BMX cranks to Burns, I was only going to save a pound. So respectively speaking, the drivetrain as a whole, is on par if not lighter in the weight department. As far as which I would go with, obviously I went the BMX route and decided that the weight savings of Burns wasn't worth it to me. Don't get me wrong, I would LOVE a set, but the value isn't there for me. Same goes for going with a FFW crank that just has a fixed cog on it. The hassle of worrying about stripping out threads, and having to buy a nice BB just wasn't worth the value for me. That and it's a widely known fact that ISIS isn't nearly as stiff as a BMX or two piece crank/BB design. And look at those, those are all two piece designs that you even stated earlier are shit. Looking at all those failures, aren't all those cranks exposed to grinding and/or DJing? Not to mention the stress distro of riding a bike with small wheels and high PSI. Couple that with an unsmooth rider and you have one set of cranks that's pretty abused. My apologies if it appeared that way. In your posts, maybe because of the way I was typing things, made it appear as if you haven't or haven't installed a set. Look at that, you have to keep them tight. That's also the point of having them even, they're far less susceptible to loosening because of there being more load on one side than the other. And you can't tell me riding them even slightly loose doesn't put any more additional stress onto the cranks. They're now receiving yaw loads in additional to whatever they were seeing previously. Most every broken profile I've seen had a wobbley crankarm, you can't call that coincidence. I was referring to the only time needing the installation tool and needing a hammer to install cranks was when taking a crank arm off, or checking to see if my spindle was even. In the end, we can go back and forth all day on whatever. The BMX cranks on my trials bike has worked out fine. I haven't had any hassles, failures or problems. And they may not work on a pure trials bike due to the crazy wide yokes, but I got it to work on my Inspired (which is a "trials bike") and have been loving it since day one. And wasn't this the point of the thread? On whether they'd fit or not? And at the end of the day, all that matters is that you're happy with your set-up, not that X set-up hasn't worked for X person. If it's worked for you, and you're enjoying it, that's all that matters right?

What's the difference between the heatsink coust pads and the "real" coust pads?

Who hammers on BMX cranks? They all use pinch bolts to pull the crank arm onto the spindle. To take them off, you need the tool that you do have to hammer (it basically just pushes the crankarm off the axle) to get it off. You do it the same way with BMX cranks, except you have the ability to space them out closer or farther to the bike for both clearance and chain line. I think it's coincidence that the 5.75in axle fits PERFECTLY with the amount of spacers I had to put on my BB and it just clearing the yoke. So as you can see, if I didn't have those spacers, the axle would be too long and the crank arms could shift around. And if the axle were the shorter one, the cranks wouldn't clear the yoke. And if I were to put those spacers on the short axle, there wouldn't be 100% spline interface. Also, as you can see, it gives you pretty much infinite adjustability for my chainline.

The reason most BMX cranks break is 1 of two things: 1. They're OLD. Meaning can you realistically expect a set of cranks that are 5+ years old, that have surface rust from them being grinded on daily, and them being used for dirt jumps, really expect to hold up much longer? I don't really ride ANYTHING hat's more than 5 years old, lifetime warranty or not, even if it looks to be in good shape. You know what they've been through and how you ride. be smart in knowing that things fail. Just because your chain works and looks fine, would you continue riding on it after 1 year of daily use? No, you'd be a little more smart about it and replace it before it injures you. Too bad most people are too cheap when it comes to the same kind of thinking when it's over $10 and just a chain. 2. They're not installed correctly. Most people ride them loose, or don't properly prep the surfaces (loctite or grease) and it results in failure. When I was talking about spline interface, yes, I was talking about nearly bottoming out the crankbolts on the spindle. The only way you can do that, is the crank arm is COMPLETELY on the axle. With the axle being able to "float" back and forth between both arms, most people don't have the axle centered on both arms, let alone interfacing 100% with the crank arm. Most of the time, the spindle for the application is too short (usually due to spacing), and like only 30-50% of the axle is interfacing with the crankarm and usually interfacing more on one side than the other. i.e. they didn't take the time to even it out when installing it. If you've ever rode on 3 piece BMX cranks, you'd know exactly what I was talking about. The axle isn't stationary like it is on a mtb, once the bearings are in, you can slide the axle back and forth.

The 100% spline interface was referring to the Yoke, with the yoke being so wide, most people don't get complete spline interface after spacing out their cranks. Then they strip out the crank arms and axle interface. then again, most people don't do it correctly and order a longer axle so that you can space them out and still have a good interface between the axle and the crank arms. they just ride them with the axle in the crankarm only 30% or so. Chain line is no problem. Mine lines up perfect. And BMX cranks are easier to line up to the rear anyways. A hassle initially to get set-up, but there's definitely more room. As compared to MTB bs where when you put the crank arm on the BB, that's pretty much it, the chain ring can't "float" to the correct spot, you have to play with the cog in the rear. As for the lifetime warranty, DK is like Profile, you send them to them, and they send you another one no charge. So if they do break, I'm not worried about buying another set of cranks. Much like you guys in the UK, aren't too worried about buying another set of Burns if they break. I've seen broken burns as well, does that man I should be worried about them breaking as well?

I've had them for over 2 years. They were on a BMW Parkbike before the Inspired, which saw trails and DJs. They're pretty much like profiles, they have the 19mm 48 spline axle. They have a lifetime warranty as well, so it's the last thing I'm worried about breaking. They typical BMX spindle is 5 inches or 5.25. I got a 5.75, which is what the profile "mtb cranks" come with and I get 100% spline interface on BOTH arms. Yeah, the crank arms are spaced out a bit to clear the BB yoke, but it's a perfect fit. I have the Hope SS hub on the rear and it lines up perfectly.

5.75in spindle and I have a perfect chainline. DK Social cranks. I have a bash and have a 25t ring. Light as well. As for all the rants lately...yeah, sorry bout that. Some crazy shit going on lately.

I don't know why everybody thinks BMX cranks are heavy. Your AVERAGE (read, not light, not heavy) is 33oz which is 935g. A typical BMX euro bearing cup (the BB bearings) is around 8oz or 226 grams, and that's for heavy ones. That's a total of 1151g. A TITANIUM Reset BB is 210, but your average isis BB is around 300g Trialtech isis arms are 510. After you add a bash and a sprocket, you're sitting around the same weight and not NEARLY as strong. And that's with a standard a crmo axle in the BMX cranks. Don't forget you can also get a Ti axle for the BMX cranks. If you run Middleburns, you're gonna be slightly heavier than the Trial Tech crank arms, and it puts you toughly in the same weight as BMX cranks. There are lots of BMX companies who have 23t front sprockets now that a lot of people run 23/8 gearing. You won't be able to get a bash unless you run something that's a 25t and then you get a bunch of options like a Shadow Conspiracy Crowgora (what I'm using) or Odyssey MDS. The inspired one looks to work with BMX cranks as well and is 23t. There's a bunch of other options out there, but those are just off the top of my head. Anybody who's recently built up a BMX knows, with todays light bmx parts you can build up a SOLID bmx that weights sub 20lbs. It will definitely be a lot more durable than any trials bike you can build up. Heck, KHE has a street bike that weighs 17lbs, and many companies are offering completely OEM bikes that are in the 23lb range with pegs for under $700!!!

+ = cheapest, most effective downtube protector. Made of PVC pipe. If you're talking about the chainstay one there's numerous places that sell those. But like the downtube protector, you can also make those out of most anything as well.

What's the need for classifying everything? It's the reason Music is so damn stupidly confusing because you have these people who say "we're not indie, but we're also not alternative, and definitely not alternative rock, we're a new breed of music..." No the f**k you're not, just like those turds in lim bozkit who say "we're not rock, and we're not rap...we're totally new" Shut the f**k up. You want a new name for that? Called like Rock Hop? How f**king stupid is that? Just say you rapping really shitty to a shitty rock riff. Maybe we should classify all Downhillers or freeriders who use 24 inch wheeled bikes (Bender anyone???) something different? Same thing for those that ride trials. Are you no longer a mod rider because you ride 90% BMXy on your mod? Is Ryan Leech no longer a trials rider because he has a suspension fork on his bike? Who gives a shit? We all ride trials, just a little differently and we all ride the bikes of our preference. The need to classify shit is stupid, and the need to come up with a name for "24" is even more ridiculous. It's a wheels size, it's not a style of riding. And as a style of riding, it's still the same damn sport. What does Chad Degroot ride? Street? No cause he does flatland stuff in it, so is he a flatlander? Well, he's not just riding around in a parkinglot, so it's street. Maybe we should come up with a whole new genre for that too.

I've been out of the scene for a bit. Why did you stop riding?