rupintart

Press hard. Most of the time people's grinds aren't sharp because they pussyfoot with being scared to grind the shit out of the surface.

In my Stiky tires, I was able to run nearly nothing, like 18psi and never flat. On the TQ however, I have to run like 30-33psi. Seems like a lot, but it's really not. If you ever watch Gilles, he was running a rubber queen and that's about what it was at. The tire didn't squish until he preloaded or was on a corner. Same as Vincent on the stiky lite (which is about comparable to the TQ), his tires look rock hard unless he lands on an edge or when he preloads. I think too many people get too involved with tire pressure. There's too many variations with tire characteristics to really place a definite answer. Couple that with the terrain and personal riding preferences, as well as weight of a person, and it's too loaded of a question to ask really.

I'm starting to realize tires are one of those things like handlebars and stems where it's completely preference. Twopeople may have the same style of riding and even ride the same terrain but prefer a different tire marginally over another. I'll use myself for example. I'm a person that absolutely HATES pinchflats. When I was purchasing tires, I was going based off the experience I had with Try-All Stiky tires and how impossible they were to pinchflat. However, I wanted a lighter tire. I understand that a lighter tire means I will get more pinchflats. HOWEVER, I've found that getting more pinchflats isn't necessarily a bad thing. The Trial Queen on the rear is probably the most rewarding tire I've ever ran. It has decent enough flat protection to where you don't get completely punished from running a lighter tire, but it lacks enough to punish you for not riding smooth. There's this ledge I sidehop onto that if I'm not smooth, I pinch about 50% of the time, but if I do the sidehop smoothly (i.e. correct technique), I land without the tire even touching rim. It puts in a sort of mental training to make you adjust your technique and ride smooth(er). Its extra bounce also is pretty nice. When running the Stiky I found I was pretty sloppy in just hacking around from object to object. Although I was riding more aggressively, I was being a complete hack. I have a feeling if I had another tire that wasn't as light or responsive (the Stiky felt dead and felt like it just absorbed all my mistakes), I wouldn't try to be as precise and accurate with my tire placement. The TQ is forcing me to be a bit more selective in how and where I place my tire on an object. All that said, there are several others on this forum and OTN that ride pretty similar terrain and don't necessarily care for riding smoother, just don't want pinchflats. Or, they want to get smoother, but just don't want to sacrifice pinchflat reliability and deal with the weight. in any case, it really boils down to preference. At first I loved the bounce of these tires but hated getting flats, but now I can see my riding has gotten much smoother as my landings and gaps are no where near as harsh. Smoother and effortless riding is more what I'm after, rather than seeing how high or far I can get.

Although this is a great post for newbies and very informative, if a person can't figure out how to trim a brake pad to fit into a backing, they probably shouldn't have a razor in their possession. It's like the people who ask "how do I grind my rim?" It's just funny to me is all.... Although this is a great post for newbies and very informative, if a person can't figure out how to trim a brake pad to fit into a backing, they probably shouldn't have a razor in their possession. It's like the people who ask "how do I grind my rim?" It's just funny to me is all....

I used to be a diehard freehub guy. Mainly Hope and Hadley. But I bought a Ti Echo SL FW and don't think I'll be looking back. The Ti SL replaced a Try-all 108.9 and was a HUGE, HUGE improvement. The 108.9 was clicking and popping more and more and from everybody I've talked to, is pretty common. Also, the SL is far stiffer. As for the using them for street. I think it's funny how people say "don't use FFW for street because the chain always spins." Funny thing is, 99% of these people saying that, they're feet never come off the bike unless they're bailing, and at most doing crank flips. FFW is fine for street unless you're doing whips or grinds, and again, 99% of the people don't grind and if they do, they have a bash and are typically grabbing the back brake anyways (the wheel stops spinning). Most people think of all the reasons why not to, but 99% of the time, those situations don't apply to them and/or they're riding ability doesn't warrant it.

If you don't like being messy, use teflon tape (plumbers tape). It also helps keep the creaking away. Make sure you chase the threads before installing a BB. It's always good practice to do. Better to be OCD and have good threads, than to be lazy and have a f**ked frame.

Hah, I'm right foot forward, but spin "naturally" to the right....always been that way. Oddly enough, I pivot "naturally" the other direction. I still suck at street/bmx though, so I guess it doesn't really give me any sort of leg-up, hahaha.

Yeah, that's what I meant. Thanks Mark. Many of the newer frames are geared towards equal to or smaller than 18t up front, so a Burns crank might not fit on some frames.

It's gonna be hard to answer that as cockpit is a fairly personal choice. However, my buddy who is 6'5" put a mod stem on his stock and loves it.

I think Brett M found that Burns ended up being a lighter set-up. I have to find the specific post, but he actually went from FFW to Burns/King because he found it to be lighter. But with how reliable the Echo FW is nowadays, there really isn't a reason to go any other way. Also, lots of modern frames are designed to run 18t gearing so a Burns set-up may not work (without a stupid wide BB), right?

So I was just browsing around FB and saw Giant Bicycles had a page, I goto click this and not only is the trailer pretty sweet, but a good friend of mines music was used for the vid!!!! I was shittin my pants that they used his music, just figured I'd share the excitement.

All the f**ks that are complaining about this video can't ride for shit and have to bag on a video comparing apples to oranges because they can't ride for shit themselves. f**king retards. Seriously, who the hell complains about a FREE video??? /end thread.

I ran the tweet tweet bars and they were amazing.

I went from a pair of standard Try-Alls to a Try-All shift up front and a Trial Queen on the rear. I love the drop in weight and the extra bounce you get from the TQ. The TQ has taken some hard hits and no flat, but it's definitely not as durable as the standard try-all tire, but it's nearly a pound lighter. The 2.2 TQ is also super fat and super grippy, so don't let the 2.2 size fool you. It barely fits in my Karbon and is about the same size if not bigger than the Try-All 2.5. The TQ lacks a little stability on angled stuff, but any tire will in comparison really because it has thinner walls and is lighter. I will try out the Try-All lite as soon as the TQ wears down, but as of now, I'm pretty damn happy with it.

Here's one: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=148024&view=findpost&p=2080759 Didn't bother to search for the others, but yeah, there it is.

What proof do you have that the heatsinks are different? Anecdotal no doubt. Unless there is lab proof or an eMail from Michael saying so himself, I think it's rubbish. Steve gets the coust pads direct from the Coustellier dad himself, and has even stated so several times... So are you saying Michael Coust is holding back his own stash? Putting pads on a bike back to back doesn't quantify proof. The medical field has been doing this for years, i.e. the placebo effect.

About 2 years ago, I ran "real" coust pads on my inspired, and got some "coustsinks" in a trade that I put on there when those ran out. I didn't notice a difference two years ago, and have some cousts on my Karbon now, no idea if they're "real" or sinks, but they ride exactly the same. I think all this nonsense is proponents of either shitty brake set-ups or the placebo effect. I mean, people are asking how to grind a f**king wheel. If half these people can't figure out how to grind a wheel, I have little confidence in anything they have to say especially as far as a pad compound goes.

I don't care what bike you're riding, I just wanna see a vid.

+1

Well, if steve said they're the same compound from Micheal Coust himself, then it's the same. Being that Heatsink is a very reputable dealer, I take that as truth. And until somebody posts up an eMail from Michael Coust saying otherwise (as Steve has said anybody can freely inquire), I think people should stop speculating on things they don't know are true. Or, take "real" coust pads and the Heatsink ones to a lab and prove they're different. If Adam from Tarty said something similar, everybody would listen....I dunno where this kinda animosity/skepticism comes from, but it's exactly how information gets twisted and the wrong information is posted all over the place.

I find that only true if you spin/rotate where your back foot pushes to spin, i.e. right foot forward spins counter clockwise. Me, I'm right RFF, but sidehop consistently to the right. I end up doing like a 45 degree turn towards the object to get on top so if I slip, it slips to the bash ring, and not to the axle/derraileur. I'm far more consistent and can get about headtube height. If I sidehop to the left, I can go higher but I end up spinning away from the object as I spin CCW, so it ends up being like a tail tap and my front is either just over the edge, or not.. I'm also not nearly as confidant or consistent going to the left, but can get about bar height. I'm kinda jacked up though because I dominantly pivot CCW, but I spin CW (like if trying to do a 180 or 360) and am RFF. I can't sidehop to front wheel for shit, regardless of the side, so neither of those things really apply and all of my sidehops end up going straight to rear by a huge amount.

Fixed....that place and riding was amazing.

If your back hurts, 9/10 it's because you have a weak core. We all know the difference between muscle soreness and pain. If it's pain, your core sucks. Nothing more to it.

Here's the vid using everything that was mentioned in the replies in this thread up to this point. Everything from moving to the edge, to adjusting my levers. I couldn't handle the adjusted levers, my hands kept slipping off, hence the long set-up times, I needed a better grip! I gapped both ways, both from a legit standstill setting up to the edge, and my typical rollin. You can see I got the same distance. That gap is a little shorter at about 7 feet, and it slopes down. But again, I can't gap as far going down. On the 2nd part of the videop, there's a grass gap between the two manholes, about 6 feet apart. The higher manhole is about a 12in height difference, but is kinda hard to make out. The last two spin things are just because I was getting bored. Here's the vid: http://www.vimeo.com/11083855 No editing, pretty much all just hitting stop and go on the remote to record. So it's all pretty much back to back gapping.

I don't understand the comment "he should get on a BMX..." Why? So he can be like every other BMXer out there? The whole point is, he's doing trials AND BMX on a different kind of bike than either genre uses. If everybody who rode out of the norm was told to get on a certain kind of bike and did, there would never be an evolution of our sport(s).