Swoofty

QM41 is the one I broke too, same place. The Hope equivalent definitely has more meat around that area.

Geo now:

Oi! That's hardcore! I'd recommend only using Magura or Hope adapters. I've only broken one Magura adapter in 11 years and no Hopes so far (but using Hopes far less). Glad you came out of that one OK! I'd warranty that caliper too. XT has a 2 year warranty.

It looks like a tapered steerer. I'm not crazy about the post mount in the rear.

Is this the bar you're talking about? If so then this bar is the truth! I've run Arcade bars, Answer ProTapers, Trialtech alloy and WAW carbon risers in the past, but this one is hands down the best so far. It measures out to the same diameter as the rest, but it feels slimmer than it is. I'm pretty sure they played with the carbon layup in the bends because it has the perfect amount of 'give' and doesn't feel like concrete like some other bars. I found the WAW ultimate bar was really too stiff for comfort and again it feels larger in hand. The WAW is on my comp 26" and I keep the Comas on my Hex because it just feels so good.

Oh thank god it's got a seat! Now that's a great price point too. This will probably sell better than the 20. Well done Alias.

If it's made of steel and has no seat it's dead on arrival. What 24" really needs is a better choice of rims. It's a wasteland out there for 24" rims. More tires would be nice too...

I think the rim plays a larger role than most people think. I'm riding 26" street now so I have more choices, but since I've gone to carbon 35mm wide in the rear I've only had a pinch when I go to @ 20psi. And I'm running Jitsie or Michelin Air-stop super light tubes with Schwalbe table tops at 30psi. On my 24" I was afraid to go below 40psi. Now I can ride all the same stuff, but at glorious 30psi and not have the headache (and weight) of inserts and tire goo. What rims are you running on your 4play?

Who's gonna be the first? Almost makes me want to get another 24". Still a little rich for me at the moment sadly. No geo yet that I can find. Good to see another trials company making a street trials bike at least.

Pretty sure in 8 months you could have mined your own iron ore, processed it into steel, drawn the tubes and welded them. That just sux. But just think of the ultra exclusive club you'll belong to when you finally own your own Marino.

Those are pretty good points, Cap. Also, in this position, doesn't the caliper become part of the rear triangle and get stressed from braking, ie it becomes the support brace. Seems like it would be beneficial to run an adapter to take those stresses, assuming you CAN run an adapter.

It's a real shame custom alu is nearly impossible to come by. I have 3 custom carbon builders within easy drive from me, but besides Scorpio, I don't know any custom alu frame builders that can do a street trials frame. According to Albert, Scorpio is worth it so might see what they can do in the future. But like you said, between the Hex and the Czar 26 I'm not really wanting for much else.

Has anyone seen one of these in the flesh? The geo is nothing new, but that rear brake mount... Gimmick or improvement? I really like the Camo Ti version of the bike, but I have no money.

Magura MT5, 62 Euros on Bike24. But if you're snapping Saint calipers... that's some serious hardcore.

You answered your own question. Even on a properly working MT7, the BAT adjuster doesn't do much. MT5 levers are far more robust I've found. I gave up on MT7 levers years ago because they're overpriced, delicate and just too fiddly. What's you lever angle? If you run your levers closer to straight down than level they'll fair better in crashes. You can try a Shimano lever too, but I still prefer just the no frills MT5 levers

Ross do you have a custom aluminium builder you'd recommend?

The OCD is strong with this one! I've never had a problem with just eyeballing it in the caliper, but yes, the key is to center the caliper to the rotor, not the brake pads to the rotor. Make sure the pads/pistons are pushed all the way in before alignment because Maguras will self center to the rotor and it needs to be centered for best actuation. Of course rotors only stay true for a day or two...

That example is just as confusing. The title of the 55:30 section is called "The back wheel hop" and when Hans demonstrates he calls it a back hop because he's hopping backwards. I guess I just feel the real back hop should get more love and respect than it does these days. Back off a ledge from 2 wheels, now that's a cool seldom seen move these days.

You guys are just getting lazy with your terminology. I bet Ot Pi and Hans Rey and Ryan Leech know the difference between a rear wheel hop and a back hop. We call a Decade a Decade and a G turn a G turn; there's no grey area. I never did understand 'Jap Slap'. Leech called those 'Zap Taps', right? I'll have to look that one up, but I don't want that in my browser history...

https://trashzen.com/back-hop.php copyright circa 1998 for the trashzen tutorial Rear wheel hop - bouncing up and down on the rear wheel Back hop - hopping in the backwards direction from one or both wheels See also back off and back off 180 Mustn't confuse the new kids. Sorry to hear about your leg Jamie.

I've been very impressed with the abilities of a Magura MT4 up front with 203 rotors. I ran MT5s for years up front, but the MT4 gives you plenty of power (for the front), but with great modulation. The MT4s also retract the pad farther than the MT5/7s so less rubbing in general. Plus, there's quite a few aftermarket MT4/6 pads to choose from, although the 9.Ps are great pads all around. The MT8s have been discontinued and you can find them for pretty cheap now (comparatively). I've always wanted to try one of those up front.

Whatever you do, please don't call rear wheel hops "back hops". They are different moves and some very respectable people seem to not know the difference.

The BBB BBS-371S has been the holy grail for MT5/MT7 brakes for me. The pad compound seems to be somewhere between Magura's 9.P and Trialtech's compound and you get the best of both worlds in that they are MT5 style, but with MT7 retaining pin holes. I only use these on the rear; the 9.P is great up front and pad knock eventually goes away. Bike24 has the BBBs.

I came from years of MTB as well, but I went straight to 24" street trials. The compact maneuverability of a 24" is really incredible and one trip to the skatepark will show that unmistakably over a 26". However, for the last 3 years I've been riding 26" (Czar Neuron 26) and have to say that 26" street trials is highly underrated. I 100% prefer my 26 over my 24 now except for the skatepark environment. Sadly the choices for a straight up 26" street trials bike are extremely limited, but there are some older 26" MTBs that are worthy conversions, although they won't match a modern Hex/Czar. 24s are great; they roll around fine and they excel at spins and quick combinations. For you at 6'1" stay away from the Skye unless you just have to have one. All the steel 24s just feel heavy after you've been on an aluminum street trials bike. My vote goes to the Czar Neuron 24 or 26; I've owned both and they were hands down the best bikes I've ever ridden (I'm 5'10"). Inspireds are overpriced new, buy those used so you can upgrade parts. Check out James Barton - all his new videos are on his DJ bike and it doesn't hold him back at all.