trials hoe

good news! postage time wasn't to bad at all to say it was over xmas and new year. was riding with a lad on sat and his echo fw (new from tarty) made a horrific sound like a slip, it also sounds different to mine while coasting. mine was fine as soon as i put it on the cranks, never missed a beat since just gave it some teflon spray grease every once in a while or why its sounded a bit dry. edit - stupid f**king double posting internet connection bullshit, f**k you firefox!.

think it's down to the way cranks are machined, the splines will be cut (i'm guessing in the same way gear teeth are cut into cogs for use in a gearbox) in a different process and probably a different jig as when the threads are cut for the freewheel to screw onto. resulting in the freewheel threaded section being non-centric to the splines and hence the 'wobble' you're getting, mine is the same btw .

gunna bump this, how did it go? everything turn up as it was supposed to?

150x30 stems look better proportionally than a 165x35, but they feel horrid to ride with imo. it's a shame the k2 doesn't come in a 165 option.

would look right with black bits, rims and forks. is that a moe joe tyre on the front? no it's not hahaha i like the brown, its diffferent

good find dude. shame its only goes up to an m12 though, echo bb is m15.

you can use this method to check the pitch of the threads on the two different crank bolts IMG_20121225_215643.jpg

hammer

that's taking threads off the end of the bolt dude, it looks like the threads on the end of it are gone too meaning it won't have any way of starting to turn in the threads of the bb. do you have a tap you could run down the bb threads? might be able to rescue the threads of the bolt, snap a pic of it as a silhouette with a light behind it so the threads are visable.

just having some random shit on the threads can be enough to cause a stripped bolt, are there no bits of the stripped bolt threads lurking in the bb axle threads? using the echo bolts in an echo bb? pics would help edit - you could have started the bolts off crossed, would explain why they where tight right from the first turn. alloy bolts shouldn't ruin a steel bb's threads though.

carbons and a non disc front hub would make it sweet. liking the silver echo headset in there, looks seamless

how did the old ones strip? did they spin in easy 'till they went tight, and then strip? or did you have to force them in like they were cross threaded?

looks like there are threads in there, in the pics on the previous page. the tubing could be thinner dia. than anything i have to look at for scale, maybe.

will be interested to see how you get on with this, it's between this and the rocket ron for me. and running the chain, if they were surely they'd foul the chains routing with slaves mounted. edit - is it me or does the bb look huge dia. wise?

are those magggie mounts on the chain stays?!?! looking forward to seeing this built up though

the claim would be for the crack, i could understand them saying no if you wanted a new frame because of the chain rub. at 4 months old it could be down to a manufacturing defect which should be covered by warranty, if you're refused because of the chain rub that's a pretty anal reason. interested in pics too

you sound like a miserable git, but you're right and we share the same views there . new years is just an excuse to get shit faced and fight nowadays, testement to that someone got their ass pretty severely kicked at 5am this morn at the end of our street. anyways happy new year's everyone! !

is the fact that more than one person has the same opinion not a clue? majority of your posts are inflammatory/offensive (your above post is a good example) and this makes you come across as a dick, or maybe your points are lost in translation.

£1750!?!?!?! :bow: and what the f**k is going on with those bars?

which bits are making no sense? when i'm on about lever angle i mean like this - imagine the black line is the fill level of the fluid, fluid will still come out like here in no air in the system but it can still collect above the line in the cylinder. you need the lever at the angle below to avoid this i know you're using 05's but the principle is still the same.

is the piston in the lever all the way out when you're bleeding it with the tpa unscrewed all the way too? looks like a sticky piston in the vid, but slack in the lever will be air in the system. have you sanded the piston its self down a bit to see if its contributing to the problem? if the slave cylinder pistons are all the way out when you pull the lever they can stick too. with the lever angle air could still be getting trapped in there, try tilting your bike over a bit on its side a bit (so the end of the lever blade is lower than the bleed bolt if you know what i mean)

yeah, air will always go to the highest point. if your lever is facing down slightly (i'm assuming you mean it's in the same position as how you will have it setup for when you ride it) a bit of air will stay at the piston end of your master cylinder in your lever.

this could be your issue the tiniest amount of air will make a brake feel shite, you'll need the bleed port bit (where the fluid comes out) at the highest point. tilt your bike and loosen the lever clamp and rotate the lever. when putting the bleed bolt back in the lever i tend to screw it in slightly and force a bit bit of fluid through, so it can seep past the threads of the bolt. holding pressure on the syringe while i nip it up too, if it bubbles when you're doing this then there is still air in the system.

you can tell the difference between water and oil, if you dab a bit on your finger and rub it between your fingers you will know. wasn't phat fluid clear? how are you bleeding? sometimes its a better idea to start over if its giving you grief. are you bleeding from the lowest point up when you start bleeding? air will always want to rise and tilting the bike to 'help' the air out is always beneficial.

don't be so defeatist dude!. brakes can be a twat to bleed, just have a minute and a brew and start again from scratch. if you've been topping up a water bled brake with mineral oil this could be the reason it feels shitty. you'll have to perfect your own way to bleed a brake at some point