trials hoe

i've had a sticky lever from the tpa being screwed all the way in, just undoing and a bleed sorted that. are you using a seringue without a plunger in it? with oil being thicker than water it maybe 'trapping' air, have you tried forcing the fluid in? (with the topping up method) or pulling the lever while putting pressure on the plunger part of the seringue (not loads)?

i have thought of using a file too, would be quicker than a hacksaw but probably the same result. hahahaha saying you came across as a cu.nt is a bit far. there is no faulting a grind as far as performance goes, but they aren't the best for useability (if that makes sense). i like to have a little modulation which you can get with a tarred rim while still having bite and hold. having to avoid all water is lame though. then again i doubt a knurled rim would have any modulation either.

was kinda why i asked here first.......... i've run a grind before. just not too keen on attacking my bike with a grinder, hence the smooth rims and tar.

already running tar and cousts was curious if it would be worth giving knurling a go.

the thought of some cnc backed la-z-boy pads has just made me chuckle a bit........... was worth a thought anyway.

so i had this idea, putting a straight or diamond knurl on a rim instead of a grind. has this been tried before? for some reason i'm thinking it would last longer than a grind. opinions?......

i couldn't think of the name of it haha, trying to describe it would have been an imposable task. was snaked twice anyway.................

steak knife/hack saw blade for cutting them off. never slicked a tyre before but i think a belt sander or some kind of sanding attachment in a grinder would do the trick.

what made go for vertical dropouts? also - bb looks pretty high on the jig.

or unscrew the pad adjuster, or re-setup your brakes all together assuming you just wacked the pads in.

you sound like a 'bad boy' playing a grown mans game, losing and complaining about it.

it might just be the tryalls are made with minutely tighter tolerances and the splines are a tighter fit, i did try some tt cranks on it at firstt but the nds splines were wobbly so they didn't get used but i'm sure they went on easier than the tryalls. think the cranks are made from two different grades of alu too, don't know if that plays a part in difficulty of fitting them.

are they the try-all expert cranks? (40 quid ones on tarty) have them on my 24 and it was the same, had to do them up tight as foook to get them to grip echo spacers. just got a spanner to lengthen the leverage of the allen key and all has been good so far.

i like the idea of splined hubs, but it looks like deng is using his own spline pattern in those pics. anyone else get the feeling he's going to alienate his customers by forcing them to buy his sprokets too? a bit like he has with the intergrated c/r on his forks. i know he owns a sizeable portion of the trials market with his various brands, but it still seems a bit greedy to me.

zinc primer to stop rot?

finacial security for 5 years of my life? yes please! f**k it you can have my toes too. a mil won't make you rich by todays standards, but you'd be far from poor.

nothing wrong with that!, if i could afford to live in a posh gated community with a 0% crime rate i certainly would *i'm in no way suggesting your some kind of snotty rich kid by the way (A)

you must live in a really nice area mate guns are worryingly easy to get hold of, its who you know and i guarantee you will know someone who knows some one. reports of shooting never really get publicized in the uk, in some shitty areas people are shot pretty regularly. just because it's not on the news doesn't mean it isn't happening. as for America i can see no logical reason to need an assault rife in your home, it'd be impossible to ban guns over there as there's so many. the argument of arming teachers would have stopped quite as many of the kids being shot at the latest yank tradition of shooting people for no reason and in theory its a good a point, up until a teacher has had enough of some annoying kid and blows him away. america is just f**ked up. the reality of the world we live in is pretty grim, but tunnoks caramel wafers make it better

cutting bolts down is fine. spin a nut on past where you're going to cut so when you undo it it will sort the threads out where you have cut through them, giving the end a file before you take the nut off would be beneficial too. remember you can always cut something shorter and not longer, measure measure measure to avoid making parts useless

you can check to see if the pitch is the same (not mega accurate) by holding one of each of the bolts like in the attached pic, if the threads are different they wont sit together like the one below. hold them in front of light to make it easier to see the outlines of the threads.

is the thread pitch the same as the standard bolts? could also be the problem.

lever should return faster with a water bleed, maybe a sticky piston or dirt got in when you bled it? or was it oil bled before? water and mineral oil are pretty rank when they mix together.

pics? of the bolts side by side (ti and standard ones), and the threads in your stem would help dude.

sounds like it's stripped the threads, shined a torch down the bolt hole to see if the threads are still good? if the bolts bottomed out and you carried on tightening it could have been the cause.

http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/complete_freewheels/echo_sl_108/c16p10864.html or http://www.trialsaddict.com/freewheels/complete-freewheels/echo-sl-freewheel-108-click.html echo sl,accept no less! all the freewheels i've seen have the same thread size ( 1.37" x 24tpi ), avoid 'track' stuff as the thread pitch is slightly different and it will bugger up the what ever it screws onto.