FamilyBiker

perfect street tyre

nero vision is my choice,has loads of effects and transitions included and saves files in .mt2s format,wich is good for not loosing quality on fhd clips. for advanced effects i use vdub

i lol´d so heavy when i first saw this,but at the second look it seems to be pretty good looking

if you use a 1,5 kg suspension fork for trials i´d get medical insurance for your face

style!

exactly the position in which a mate ones snapped lol,seems to be the weak point with zoots

ride without bike!

get an alu frame made of recycled coke light cans,theyre ten times lighter than the coke zero ones but dont get a pepsi one,theyre prone to cracking

that stuff is more expensive than i´ve thought,too. paid 37 euros for 500ml(when mixed) + 100g filler but its cool to have the possibility to change shore grade with fillers and tempering,having between 78-90a isnt a bad thing,lots of compounds edit:what glue is best to fit pads to backings? i really dont trust cyanoacrylates,from a technical view you wouldnt use something hard to glue something soft... maybe 2K-adhesives on epoxy-base?

just wanted to say its ridiculous,i´m gonna make diy pads soon and didnt even think about a bodge like that for a second...

maybe its like that ripoff goggle glasses... :wink2:

is this real? you can simply remove pads from any backing in an oven at 150°. holy sh--- edit:lol,even the yellow one wasnt original in that backing

70 will be like a pencil eraser,add filler to go to about 75a,then the wear time will be better,too. i think so far its me(waiting for materials) bing and mrstix.

i think what you mean is the "pot"-time until it gets to hard to work with,what i mean is a heat treating after 3 days of hardening to get the pu polimerized. it stiffens up the material and adds abrasion resistance. with the heat filler i´ll use it´ll pretty much exactly 87 shore a when the pads are finished. thats hard enough for medium grinds but works until the grind has died imo for example smooth rim pads are 78-83 shore a,ground rim pads are like 90.

i think harder is better,try epoxy resin for the mould.if its the same material the hardener will probably remelt the surface of your mould. other thing i thought of was tempering the finished pads for 4 hours at 80°C in an oven,big companies do that in cases where abrasion applies.(thats probably that microwave process mentioned earlier) if they shrink a few 10th of a mm during that its better they were too big before lol

if we make them,say 48 x 8 x 4,7mm it´d fit any backing with sanding material off,always better than a pad thats too small lol the middle cutout is 11mm,if we make it 10 its cuttable to 11(power pad backings)and fitting to echo,tnn and so on. i played mindgames of getting some modelling clay and press the refill into it to make a negative,then bake it to harden it. the 3d printed version would be more pimped though...

nah, pins are cool,they decrease the chance of slipping by a huge amount,but IF...

that will turn into some colours...

you can change the master piston seal,but not the slave one(well,trying it would destroy it) so yeah get a new o-ring for your lever to be sure,then youll be fine. edit:tomorrow at work i´ll cut a slave in half to see whats really inside,intersting imo

yeah,in this context it was kind of an incomplete answer lol. on a light,nearly dead grind,they had little bite and no hold until i used tar,that should answer the question. how should a medium hard pad perform on smooth rims if it sucks on a grind? or am i wrong?

in general youre both right,i wouldnt grind my rims to contaminate them with tar right after,but when my grinds wear down i tend to avoid grinding for a few weeks by putting tar on the rim. it was just the situation in which i had echo pads on,then i reground my rim and recognized it ate the pads alive making more sense now,nigglers? :wink2:

echo pads+very very light(in best case dead) grind with a tiny bit of tar=win!!! on a smooth rim they didnt hold well in my setup fresh grind and you wont hear the echo of your brakes honk before theyre gone lol

i ride an atomlab gi on a hope pro2 ss hub,both 36 hole,its awesome. if you want a similar rim,look for a ryde rigida bigbull or this: http://www.trialmarkt.de/-SALE/HR-Felge-24-Try-All-36-Loch-schwarz::1573.html this guys like the german tartybikes and the rim is nearly the same as the atomlab

very cool,thanks! would it be too much to ask for a negative of the shape,too? with that a 3d printer could print the mould.i´d like to make a mould that has holes in that shape with the funktion of that icecube maker things,to fill it up with resin. it wouldnt need the circle hole on the underside,just a straight 11mm wide distance like heatsink pads have would do the job...

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