niconj

Certainly better than the Tocco and a better feel to it too, but that's only my point of view.

I don't think that the 820 caliper is weaker than the 810. I think the performance differences have to do with the lever, which, for trials riders, is just too short. The older style lever is just longer and I really think that this makes the difference. I've heard riders complaining about the on/off performance of the 810s and with the 820s lever, this has been fixed. For trials though, you need on/off more than the better modulation of the 820s.

If there's no 810 available anymore, just get the Zee calipers and XT BR-M775 levers e voila.

Polyax are the best. They are coated on the outside and on the inside. No need for oil or sth. like that. They do have them in alloy as well although in trial you will have to center the wheel more often and alloy isn't all too durable.

If weight is not an issue, Sapim Strong spokes and Sapim Polyax brass nipples (not in pink though but you won't notice the color anyways). That's how I build up mine and it's superstrong. I weigh almost 90kg and don't have a smooth riding style...

Well... the Stiffy looks very cool. This is my rear wheel.

I've got the Stiffy Front/Rear. When I bought them they were only 20€ each. 684gr. on my scale. The Spike are 600.

Click.

I know where to get the Stiffies/Spanks/Subrosas for a very good price. It's in Germany though.

So? I emailed Tensile and tomorrow they will ship out a new lever and I will send mine in for inspection. So far I've only heard good things about customer treatment in GB and was still surprised that they answered on a Sunday. Wouldn't happen here in Germany.

It's the one you use for the rubber seals on Rock Shox sidehop forks. edit: Does the piston come out on its own when removing the lever? Mine didn't. And is there an obstruction at some point when pushing the piston in manually?

Does the piston come out all the way, meaning, when the TPA screw is all the way out, does the bolt still touch the piston? W/o any crease mine get's stuck and I have to turn in the TPA screw various turns in order to get it touching the piston. edit: I just contacted Tensile to ask them what they think about it.

Avid BB7 as a starter (or Saint 810 if you want to spend a little more money). Also, you may want to buy some shin guards. You really do!

Yeah. Since the normal bleed wouldn't work, I opted for anti freeze/water 1:1. It's working now, though I'll have to test it still. The thing is (and this is where the piston got stuck before) when I remove the lever and manually push the piston inside the body, there's an obstruction at some point. Exactly at the point where it got stuck w/o grease. Can someone confirm that the piston moves in w/o any obstruction? You can't really feel it, when pulling the lever but it's certainly an issue as I don't want to grease it every other day. Nico. edit: At this point I ask myself why they put in an M8 screw for bleeding. With what the magura kit has to offer you can't bleed it w/o a workaround, which failed me the last three times apparently.

I just took it apart and even with the lever removed, the piston didn't come out. I had to pull it out. Now I put some military grease on it and put it back in. Now it feels very smooth. The only thing is that I can't bleed it. I've tried it 3 times already and there's always air inside the system. I don't know what's the issue. Could it be that some grease on the seal causes it to suck air while bleeding?

The scraping happens at the first 2cm of lever movement, not when the lever is bottomed out. I am sure that there's no air in the system. The problem is, that even when trying to bleed the system, the piston (the thing pushing the fluid, the thing which apparently is being pushed out by a spring) doesn't come out all the way. When I screw out the TPA, at some point it doesn't touch the piston anymore. Now, if I try bleeding the brake, I can screw out the TPA all the way but the piston stays stuck at some point so whatever I do, I will have to turn in the TPA a few turns.

As I said before. There's no air in the system and I don't see how fluid would help preventing the lever scraping the body.

I am sure that there is no air within the system as I bled it with all screws turned all the way out. I used royal blood... even out of the box the piston didn't come out all the way when the TPA was all out. As I didn't know the way it works I thought once there was some oil in the system this would change. This aside, the creaking noise it does, shouldn't come from a brand new lever, neither should the actual lever be scraping it's surroundings (don't know how it's called) when used. Is it easy to disassemble the lever? Will I lose my warranty? What about the scratch at the bottom. The lever scrapes there. I'm sure that a fresh bleed won't help.

Has anyone experienced this? No air inside and a new lever. Nico.

This! I made it 2 months without hitting my shins and then: Bloody Sunday von niconj auf Flickr I'm also glad to read about someone starting at the age of 51. Makes me feel that I still have time to improve a lot in the next 18 years. Nico.

I got the LGMs on my bike and find them amazing. Then again, I started with trials only 3 months ago...

Now get guy on a bike.

Maintaining isn't building up.

But a 70 year old can't built up muscles as a 17 year old can. Even at 30 you are disadvantaged already. In my case I'm stronger than I was at 17 and jump a lot higher as well, having played basketball professionally for almost 10 years. I just recently got into (Street) Trials and the point is that I'm just plain scared now where I wouldn't have been at 17. You think more about injuries when you get older.

It has to do with age. Some things I did at 15, I would never ever do now at 33. I'm not too old or unfit, just too scared.