niconj

After seeing it I was sure that he broke his clavicle.

Funny, this is the subject of my final oral exam at the university.

Even for a non-native speaker the title sounds odd.

Nope. As the title says. It's the trials frame.

WORD!

Until recently a BB7 with SD7 lever, Jagwire Ripcord and G2 180 rotor. Now it's a Saint 810 lever, Zee 640 caliper with Shimano BH90 hose and SLX rotor on the front. On the back its a rim brake. I have to add that I'm new to trials even though I have a lot of experience in MTB riding and thus with different disc brake(s) (rotors)

Because I've had the lever scraping on the body when braking hard, the piston not coming out all the way after braking (lever play), the small screw to adjust the lever reach loosened itself after only 15 min. of riding. I've got a replacement one from Tensile quickly though. The Racing Line Lever not only feels much better, it's also a "finger" longer and thus has more braking power. Also, the piston moves so smoothly it's wonderful. I think that was the older generation. Version 2.0 is supposed to be better. Nico.

I am well aware of this effect but I do have a Syntace torque tool and the untrue Avid rotors were put onto various bikes (and hubs obviously). Now with the BB7 it's not that big of a deal as you can adjust the pads independently but with a hydraulic brake that isn't the case. As I said, cheap SLX rotors will do the trick and they stay true as well. To make a long story short. If you are happy with the Avid rotors, who cares right? Nico. p.s.: As you read through the posts on Mtb-news, you will see that no one really likes the Avid rotors that much.

The difference is that I can't use any washers as the caliper is too far to the right.

If the disc isn't true, it isn't true. It doesn't have to do anything with my ability to set up a brake. As for the fork issue. If my BB7 caliper touches the disc even when it's all the way to the left with no more possibility to adjust it further out, again, this doesn't have to do with my ability to set it up properly*. The Zee caliper I've mounted now doesn't show this effect and the SLX disc is 100% true, sth. I can't really say about the Avid rotor. *You can come by and try your best. If you get it set up w/o the disc scraping the caliper and w/o filing down the adapter or fork, I'll give you the Avid rotor and the BB7.

Hated the Tocco, love the Racing Line lever.

I've bought many BB7s over the years and the rotors were never true and bend even more when braking hard. The G2 are better than the roundagons but still crap. My favorite is the Trickstuff disc and after that a normal low budget SLX one.

Parts List: Frame - Because Simple Trials 24'' w/ Because headset Fork - Echo Urban disc only Front wheel - Spank Spike/DT340/Sapim Strong-Race/Sapim Polyax Aluminium Orange. Rear wheel - Echo TR Rim/Echo TR Hub 129mm w/ Try All serrated washers/Sapim Race/Sapim Polyax Aluminum black Front tyre - Schwalbe Rocket ron (w/ Schwalbe SV10 tube) Rear tyre - Maxxis High Roller (w/ Schwalbe AV10 Tube) Bottom bracket - Truvativ Giga Pipe DH Cranks - TryAll 170mm w/ Echo TR 18T Bashring - Try All A-Symmetric Bash Pedals - Wellgo MG1 Stem - Brother 150x30° Handlebars - Tensile 99 Riser Grips - Trialtech foam Frontbrake - Saint 810 Lever to a Zee 640 Caliper w/ SLX 180mm rotor (Trickstuff pads. BADASS!) Rearbrake - Racing Line Lever to '13 HS33 w/ yellow Heatsink in TNN aluminium backings w/ Trialtech 4bolt Booster - Trialtech Y-splitter (water bled) Weight: 9.7kg To see the pictures scroll down.

Do yourself a favor and get another disc. Avids are by far the worst rotors I've tried so far.

I just emailed with Johnny from Hope and he assured me that the bearings are still INA but labelled Hope. Also, I will get a set of bearings shipped for free since mine died after only 1/2 year. As a possible reason he told me the following: "It could be that the bearings are just sub-standard and the new ones will be fine. Or, if the hub body is undersize it could be leading to premature failing and if this is the case we would have to have the hub back in the factory for inspection."

Since you can't use the PM function yet. I'm at MTB-News.de under the same name.

Kauf dir die 810er gebraucht. Viel billiger und ein paar kleine Gebrauchsspuren sind beim Trial eh in einer Session schon dran. Ich wäre sogar geneigt, meine zu veräußern, da ich was schlankeres für mein Rad will. Nico.

If the pressure point is too far in, you could try 2 things*. First way is to take the wheel out and pull the lever a bit. Just enough so that the automatic pad wear thingy moves the pads in a bit. You could also put a syringe on the bleed screw, open it and put some more oil into the system by applying some pressure on the syringe. Works like a charm. I'm pretty certain that the different rotors don't have to do anything with the pressure point. Nico. p.s.: If nothing works, get some 810 levers as the calipers are almost the same. *Only if you can make sure that there's no air in the system. I also had the 820 and it didn't take too much lever movement to get the brake to lock up. It's not the pads, its the spring that isn't centered after those moves. The next time it happens, don't tap the brake lever and have a look at the spring. I'm sure it isn't centered, as the pistons don't recenter themselves after having been off. Had/have the same "problem" with the Zee caliper.

Does it make any difference using it on the front brake? Just buy the lever of ebay. Got mine new for 40 posted and get a Zee caliper + hose.

Just though about what you wrote. (Haven't ridden the bike since I wrote about my problem here). How many Nm do you recon will be enough. I always have the feeling that I could ruin the threads by tightening it too much. I did a lot of weight lifting back in the days...

Why don't just order the Hope Hubs from the German site as well? Probably cheaper too. And 123 ist a LOT. I paid 20€ for a rim but that was before they raised the price by 20€ bucks.

Better than the IceTech ones which you don't need for trials anyways. If I were you I'd get some new RT66 ones though. Nico.

Which is the same chain stay length as 18/14 (368.2), which doesn't work.

I understand. Well, I'll see whether the chain lengthens too much. If not 18/15 is my option if it does, I'll either go half-link 18/14 or 18/13 w/o half-link .

I don't get it.