RobinJI

Yeah, will work fine with a maggie, give it a try with black pads, there quite good on the front as they still allow some feeling to the break. I wouldn't really recommend that rim though, there pretty weak, have a look at some other options first. Personally I don't know many font 20" rims, but I've trued a mates try-all one and it feels really flimsy, and I know people who have buckled the 26" versions in a days normal riding.

You mean the Eastern Grim Reaper? This monstrosity that should be sold for scrap metal?: Did they not notice that they could just use the butting process to reduce weight? They managed it with all there other frames, and its not even that light, its still 4lb 3oz (1.9kg) light for a BMX, but still not lighter than lots of really though MTB frames that just use clever butting. Leesons are under 5lb aren't they?

Hmm... Yeah, that's a good point, all I can think of is that new Canadian 24" (within trials of course, there are loads of jump/XC steel frame builders out there.)

Yeah, I'm using an ACS at the moment, and its nice, but its just not that nice. And I'm after a 16t, so the trials ENO is out of the question, maybe the normal (red) one? Oh yeah, I e-mailed tarty about rear tensiles and they said they hadn't heard anything and not to hold my breath.

Basicly as the title says, what freewheel optios are there for the rear, needs to be 16t At the moment all I can think of really in the trials world is the ACS claw, or the red ENO, but I cant find a red ENO anywhere and don't have the money anyway. Was thinking this might be pretty nice? anyone used one before? I used to have an AC racing 3 piece and they were really nice.

What the?? I've only ever heard of one snapped and I vaguely recall another cracked one on here some time. This bloody forum, every time a bike cracks/snaps everyone instantly assumes that loads of them do and there really weak. They sell thousands, a few are gunna break, get over it, I've seen more broken Curtis's to be honest, doesnt mean there weaker than Ashton's, they were just older and had been abused allot.

Edit: Someone else said it while I was typing But sometimes it is actually quicker to type in full English than in text talk. As for which bike, 20" is easier for learning to ride on the rear wheel, as they are more stable on the back wheel and more easy to keep the front up on, so are often better to begin on. Wile 26" bikes are more versatile and you may find yourself wanting to swap once you have mastered the rear wheel stuff, but then again you may love 20" and want to stay with it.

Ah yeah, this is due to the wheel size. The gear ratio is purely a measurement of how much the wheel turns compared to how far you have turned the cranks, as in with a ratio of 1.5 for each 1 turn of the cranks the rear wheel will turn 1.5 times. To work out how far this actually makes the bike travel you need to take into account the wheel size. the distance the bike will travel per turn of the wheel is equal to the circumference of the wheel. This is worked out by the diameter of the wheel x Pi , with a 20" wheel, the circumference is 20x3.141592654=62.83" So with one turn of the cranks, the wheel will move: (front sprocket teeth/rear sprocket teeth)x(Pi x wheel diameter)=distance traveled. with a 20" wheel and 18:12 gearing this is: (18/12)x(3.141592654x20)=94.24" traveled for one turn of the cranks. with a 26" wheel and 20:17 gearing this is: (20/17)x(3.141592654x26)=96.1" traveled for one turn of the cranks. If they used the same gear ratio then they would tavel different distances for each crank turn, so the geering would be different, even if the ratio was the same

I have horizontals on my Iolo, and to be honest its perfect. I'm not so keen on the stock, mod thing purely because they went with a 116mm spacing, which doesn't make sense, it's a bigger wheel, it needs a bigger spoke base, so not being able to use a 135mm hub is pretty poor. If you like the look of the mk2 MKB T1000 then that seems amazing, its possibly the nicest looking frame I've seen in a long time, and uses horizontal dropouts and 135mm spacing, allowing you to run hope hubs or any other hub you want. The way I see it, every company makes a 135mm version of there 110mm hubs, but not all make a 110mm version of there 135mm hubs.

20" refers to the outside diameter of the wheel including tyre. And yeah, 165cm (or 1.65m/1650mm) is indeed 65" not 66, as said above, 25.4mm=1", so 1650/24.5=64.9609" Whatever height it is, hats off to him!!!

18:12 is indeed popular, but the other way around, with the freewheel on the cranks and the fixed gear on the hub. If I was you I would take the freewheel off your hub and put it on the cranks, then get a 12t fixed gear for the hub. Don't use that website again, it was very wrong, if you have a 20t ring and an 18t freewheel, then your gear ratio is 1.11 not 1.6 The way you work it out is the number of teeth on the front ring, divided by the teeth on the rear ring. so in your case, 20/18=1.11111111 18:12 is 18/12=1.5 this is a really good ratio for mods in most peoples opinions, and pretty much everyone uses it.

Yeah, I'm not sure, it's definitely the right size in the Ashton, I would have noticed by now if it wasn't, I'm basically the local mechanic for my friends haha. And he wasn't running any spacers in the echo, and it fitted that fine too. Edit: perhaps Ali-C would know the answer, as it is Ashton related.

I'm loving Rise Against at the moment. Broken Social Scene are awesome, definatly worth a look. erm.. Bright eyes - Lifted or The Story Is in the Soil, Keep Your Ear to the Ground, great album A billion Ernies, just a case of getting what you can download, there bloody rare, but amazing, and really original Element Eighty, again, anything you can find. Incubus - Fungus Amongus, amazing slap bass throughout, and a great alternative funk sound. Mad Caddies, great band, andything by them At the Drive-in - Relationship of comand, there best album in my opinion. The Smashing Pumpkins - Mellon Collie And The Infinite Sadness, great double album Thursday - Full Collapse or A City By The Light Divided, Emo, and so much so, and so genuin that it really stands out from the crowd, and is well worth a listen

Right, 3rd try lucky!!! In Plymouth you're really close to some great surf at Whitsand Bay just across the Tamar about 35mins from you. its a great 5 mile stretch of exposed sandy beach facing strait at the prevailing winds with nothing but the Atlantic leading onto it, gets some really nice swell in there, and its a beautiful area. As for downhilling, check out Haldon Hill just your side of Exeter, its got some really nice trails for any ability and is constantly being improved. If you want add me on myspace www.myspace.com/robiningram, I used to live in Millbrook just across the Tamar and can still remember the area fairly well. Oh yeah Mod = 20" Stock = 26" Edit: another nice shot of Whitsand, gives some idea what its like, tides about halfway out in that I think, if I remember right then it goes out until the group rocks in the bottom right are just about all on dry land.

The moto and the Mono trials are completely different breaks. the caliper on the moto has a different piston diameter. The Moto uses the new moto lever with a biting point adjuster, while the mono trials uses the revised mini lever which is a standard lever, just with a new shape to help feel and weight. The new ones look nice, it looks like they haven't addressed the flexy caliper issue though. Hopefully the new lever bites a little earlier as well, on the old ones you had to have the reach silly far out for them to bite in the right place.

Rides really nicely, I wouldn't change the geometry in anyway. Its a nice balance between the full on street style and still being able to do trialsy stuff without being held back.

Oh right, sorry. I could have sworn it was a 68 though. I mean like I said, one of my friends swapped his straight over from his echo, which I'm pretty sure are 68 shells, and it was a shimano, so not a spacered one.

There a 68mm shell, one of my mates frame transplanted a control for an Ashton and everything went on no problem at all, except an extra link in the chain, because the rear ends 5mm longer. The Ashton's are sweet, think about the way that what, maybe 10000 have been sold, and i can think of one that has cracked, so that's what? 0.01% of them! They are a pretty strong frame as far as I know, and the design and build quality is sound structurally.

Ah, right, cool, being from the streets I didn't know that had changed. Nice that its still 135mm, nice stiff wheels and good hub choice.

Looking Very sexy, loving the CNC'd parts that dont look like a solid block with slots in the side. Is that 135mm spacing or 116? I was under the impression that they were used for comps a lot, so is there a hanger available for it? PS: is it me or is the perspective a little out on some of those pictures?

I heard something about one of these newish freewheels using cage bearings, and therefor being pretty user servicable, but I cant remember if it was a tensile or try-all, and if it was a proto or production one.

When I say the try-alls are made of cheese, I mean that they are made from a very week alloy, they are still quite strong purely because of the huge amount of this weak alloy there is. But they dent easily, flatspot like a bitch and grinds last about a week thanks to the weak alloy. But I suppose they do stay true quite well, just not round.

Right: The star fangled nut can be re-used, but will probably slip, so its better to get a new one.You should cut the steerer off around 5mm bellow the top of the stem when assembled.There should be a crown-race pressed onto a raised area at the bottom of your forks, this can be taken off by hitting each side alternately with a flat-head and hammer, then pressed onto the new forks with a similar method.Besides that, just look at how you took it apart and put it back together how you found it, but maybe with more grease.

Yeah, but that's because the classic is a geared hub, so needs a narrower body to accommodate the wider cassette, and because of that the axle is supported just as well, and the flanges are as wide as they can be, but with the Deng hubs because of them both being single-speed, it would be more appropriate to compare a Chris King BMX and a Chris King Single-speed hub, rather than the classic, and these two hubs have different width body's.

Yeah, get the onza. Try-alls are made from cheese. Or even better get a DX32.