RobinJI

The helicoil kits usualy include the actual inserts themselves, the tool for inserting them, and the tap used. You won't need a die as they are used for putting threads on the outside of a rod, not inside wholes. What you need to do is to: drill the current mounts out with a 5.2mm drill bit as said above.tap it out with the tap included in the helicoil kit (not a normal m6 tap, as a standard m6 tap has a 1mm pitch, not the 0.8mm you need).screw the helicoil insert into the newley threaded whole with the tool included in the kit.Cut the insert off to the correct length if it is too long.The kit should have instructions in/on it anyway, and if all else fails, just google it.

I'm sure there quite good, but I am put off by the fact that there sold under so many different names, but are all basicly the same hub. But hey, thats deng for you. Edit: its also kinda cheep the way that the stock hubs just have wider axel spacers rather than a wider body, I mean it cocks up the chainline, doesn't provide as wide base for the spokes and gives an unsupported length of axel at each end, just because they didnt want to make another hub body, there all CNC'd anyway, all it would mean in changing a few measurments on a parametric modeler. Sorry, they seem to be good products for a mod, its just on a stock I think its stupid not to just spend the extra £15 on a hope. (sorry, spell check doesnt work at college and I'm a dyslexic little tard.)

210mm magura SL rotor Why do you need 'curveed raked forks' anyway?

The way you're running 9 speed kind of complicates thing, as 9speed requires narrower plates to fit between the sprockets. Its worth checking with tarty by e-mail if the KMC K810 will work first.

If the crank arm wobbles when it is in the correct position then it would not be a good idea to space them out to that position, as even when done up tight against the spacer they would still move slightly as you pedaled, which would damage the cranks splines. 3-piece cranks are fine spaced out, as they don't have a tapered spline like ISIS, they just rely on tight tolerances. If you don't already have a 128mm BB then get one.

Your never gunna get me to ride in anything other than jeans or 3/4 lengths, so I cant really say what people would like, but I know that I wouldn't want loads of pockets, that's what a bags for, just the usual 2 front 2 back pockets for the essentials, phone, wallet, I-pod. But I do really like the idea of having in internal pocket for a shin guard, would actually stay in place and be comfy. As for tops, Just close fitting, nice quality, cotton t-shirts/polo shirts. Again, close fitting hoodies, and all the tops I wear should end about halfway down my arse, not at my waist, not at my knees. Also back print is good on hoodies, especially when its larger than the front print, like, have a slogan or whatever written on the front, then a nice big outline picture or something on the back. Oh and arm print is always nice, not like writing down it MX style, just a little Koxx logo on a t-shirt sleeve.

Yeah, the 3 main bands were Less Than Jake, The Dropkick Murphy's and The Living end. After that gig I am now definitely a Huge fan of The Living End. The Murphy's were quality too, the amount of different instruments they used was insane. And what everyone says about less than Jake live is very, very true!

Was a great gig. Missed the guard being a dick though because I got sholdered in the face and had to go sit down so i didnt pass out. Besides that, it ruled though, less than jake were quality and rally funny guys, and The Living End were amazing as well.

Looking really nice, oldschool kicks ass! try to get some pics of it in the sun when you can. Can get a bash off www.chainreactioncycles.com

To the best of my knowledge the way that sprocket attaches is the same as a normal BMX sprocket, in that it slots tightly over the BB axle and then a bolt goes though it into the back of the crank arm to stop it rotating. Most 3-piece cranks can't take 18t sprockets as the drive bolt it too far out, but these have a second hole closer to the BB so that smaller rings can be used, so as for using normal BMX cranks with that ring goes, its not gunna happen, it will only work with profile flatland cranks, or any other company that adopts the second drive bolt hole. And they should work with any 19mm spindle BMX BB. Although This is all taken from what I know about current profiles and the pictures posted above, so please correct me if I'm wrong, although I'm pretty sure about the second drive bolt thing.

Yeah, looking nice, although if I was you I'd put those headset spacers above the stem atleast to give it a try, as the bars are really high up as it is.

Because it means you can move the cranks faster as there is less distance to move them. They feel nice you like to do full rotations of your cranks quite alot, It all depends on your style of riding really, smooth and flowing = short cranks, big power moves = long cranks. One of my friends runs 165 burns on his ashton and it feels really nice, and I have 165 RaceFaces on my 24" which also feels nice.

Yeah, I understand what UCI geometry is, I was just saying that the closes't I haf heard of way my frame, as It has the shortest chainstays I'd heard of on a 24" and the joint longest wheelbase, And I'd never heard of a 24" with anything other than a 73/74deg head angle. Obviosly I haden't seen your beast though. Was there any reason why you had a 24" made to those measurements? Looks really interesting and I imagine it would ride really nicely and indeed very UCI style.

Judging from all my friends experience's the most reliable and strongest tensioner widely availibe is the Gusset Batchelor, There compatible with quick release or bolted (hope) hubs, dont require any cocking around to get the chain line correct and only cost £12, And there the simplest design I've seen yet for a fixed tensioner. But if you can afford the rohloff then get one, you won't regret it.

Too slow to see that you said 9 speed.

Hey, I'm the guy broomer was mentioning, I got my Iolo a week or so ago and have been really really impressed with it. It looks and rides amazingly, and everyone whos seen it has been seriously impressed with the quality of the brazing. Its the grey 24" frame on Iolos site, amd he's put up some detailed pictures in the bike pics in which you can see the smoothness of the brazing. Detailed frame pics. Bike pics. I'll probably get some more pics of it in better light and with a different seat later today.

Dont get a try-all, the front rims fold like anything, there really really weak, go for a LMF/DM24 (same thing) There bomb proof and if you want to save weight drill it. Edit: and there £19.99 on CRC! bargin.

And if you really want to make it the best weight/stiffness ratio then make the inside ridge slightly higher than the outside ridge as carbon is better under compression than tension. This ones looking sexy though. Is that the same type of matt all the way though or have you got some different layers throughout it? could maybe try placing the layers at 45deg angles, so that the grain is slightly more fitting to the overall shape, or using some loose fiber matt in the middle layer or two curved round in the shape of the booster. (correct me if I'm being a tit, I'm alot more used to fiberglass than carbon, but i think it still applys)

Well out of the thousands sold, one or two are bound to go, its not like it makes them a week frame, Ive seen a few killed Curtis SX24s/Trailboss's and no-one can say they are weak. (sorry if you were joking, seems to be the general TF idea of how strength works though, if one breaks they must suck)

After a quick browse on tarty the only booster I can find that will fit is the Echo Team, which I'm sure you've probably seen already. A couple of my friends ride Ashtons and ones running the echo 2-bolt, while the others using the echo 4-bolt, and to be honest you cant tell the difference. You could try out the 2-bolt, and if your break still isn't stiff enough then you could get a CNC lever blade, braided hose, CNC pad backings etc to correct the flex in other places.

Thats the bugger, tis Chris Holm Linky £29, same design as try-all but better alloy and eyeletted, so yeah, basicly a koxx rim thats not made of cheese. There ment to be amazing, but only really any use if you're using 19" 36h.

Every bottom bracket seems to have its faults really, pete, one of my mates got through 2 FSA bottom brackets in as many rides! I'm not so keen of the echo ones either really though, for some reason I don't really trust any deng stuff with bearings in, It just doesnt seem right. I'd go with the SKF as you're using a profile so freewheel clearence isn't a problem. They seem suficiently overbuilt to take most abuse and last a while. So yeah, Middleburns as they rule, SKF and I'd say and echo 07 rim if you can get them in 36hole, or maybe one of those unicycle koxx ones if you can get them, ment to be good and are 36 hole, someones signature rim I beleive??

20:16 will be harder than 22:18 The way to work it out is to divide the front sprocket by the rear sprocket, i.e. 22/18=1.222 The higher the number the harder it will be to kick, 20:16 would be 20/16=1.25 wich is harder than 1.222 Your current geering is 18/16=1.125 So you want a number between 1.125 and 1.222 A few examples of geering you could run: 18/15=1.2 20/17=1.176 16/14=1.142

Yeah, T-pro 07 if you want mod, This if you want stock. Seem to be the best for the money. As for mod or stock, people are right, its not really height, I mean, I'm 5'9" and I ride 24" its style, not height, just have go's on other peoples bikes and see what you prefer.

Titanium is marginally softer than Steel but a lot tougher than alloy. End of, so unless all you want is a lighter freehub body then you will notice bugger all difference, just buy a new steel freehub and a wide based sprocket.