RobinJI

I know what you mean about the 'bung' You will need another normal Bolt, but thats easy to get hold of, just a normal really short M6 bolt. The easy'st thing to do with the hose's is to cut the main hose about a crossovers length from the break caliper, then put the two ends you just created onto the splitter. Then, unscrew the crossover from the first slave (the one the main hose goes into) and replace it with the new second 'bung' and take out/cut off the barb as close as you can, attach this end to the other barb on the splitter. Then bleed the system through and you're done.

Haha, fair play mate, cant blame you, was just saying my theory incase you or someone else was interested.

Well from what I've seen the crack has been apearing on the inside of the drive side flange, from where the right flange is being driven by the driveing force from the freehub, and the non-drive side flange is being held still by the spokes and the wheel on the ground/break. My point is that if you lace the non-drive side radialy, then whent the opposing forces are acting on the wheel, (pedaling and breaking/on the floor) then only the drive side flange will be handling the rotational forces, so it will not stress the hub shell in that place.

Well I'm 5'9 and I find my mates echo control short a bit much of a handfull with a 130x15 stem, but it was near enough perfect with a 120x8. It's all up to you though, but I think that stem is a bit of overkill, especialy on a long bike. Weight untill it arrives and try to scab mates old stems to borrow to find a nice length/rise you like.

Haha, legendary. Yeah, I was wondering this yesterday, But was more thinking about how to get them out to replace the seals.

Unlucky, how old were your forks? at least you didn't get hurt. Echo Urbans seem to be a really good choice, No way you're gunna kill the steerer on the new ones either!

I mentioned the Idea to someone with a mod 26", might have been you, but I can't reamember. :$ . But with the profiles I'm pretty sure that it would stop the porblem if the wheel was built with radial lacing on the non-drive side, as there would be no rotational resistance from the non-drive side, it would isolate the forces to the one flange, stoping so much stress being placed accross the hub body. Just a thought.

Just to clarify, does the wheelbase say '1030' or '1080' really squashed up? I've found Solid Edge great so far for bike stuff at home, but we're using Inventor 7 in college, which I'm not liking as much, because you have to draw it roughly then go back and add dimensions, rather than just drawing it dimensioned in the first place. Thats as far as I got with drawing my 24" frame in Solid Edge before I got distracted or fell asleep or something:

Frame looks really good, how is it having such an insanely short rear end? What hub and rear break are you running on there? Some nice riding there too :thumbsup:

Oh right, cool.

Pretty sure they still wouldn't make them in a 32hole option, as it would require entirely different forgings due to the hub design, its not like just drilling a different amount of holes in a normal flange. I know some of the team riders used to run 32 hole Dee-Max rims on hope/other makes hubs (sometimes painted yellow so as not to draw attention), but never seen a mavic hub in 32hole before.

Its not a Mavic, 1. AS said above, you cant radialy lace them in any way. 2. They dont make them in 32 hole. 3. You can see that it uses normal spoking, not straight pull ones like the mavic. Looks like its just a custom painted one.

Holy shit, never realised it was that much, I just used it as much as I wanted at work. Since then I've only really ridden with discs, as I only started trials back up recently.

Yeah, If you're after a custom frame, then do your research, just go on as many different bikes as possible, and see what geometry you like. Then Pick a mix of your favorite two or three. Just find what style you like best, and go for that. Its definatly worth doing some research into what effects changes in geometry have on the way the bike rides. As for welding up your current frame, it'll be fine, I had my koxx welded up on the chain stay yoke and it was and still is fine two owners later. Just get them to file it out and fill the gap with weld.

Good luck getting hold of those atomlab G.I.s by the way, apparently they haven't even seen a single set in the UK other than the protos and the early examples they gave to the reps. I would love some when they come into the UK though, I'm just gunna use my full-susers V8s until they do probably.

Nah, its not good for discs at all. You can get proper disc cleaner for that, but really you cant beet a clean rag and some water if you're just getting the mud off your rotor/caliper. At work I always found finish-line Citrus De-greaser to be much better for cleaning things like the drive-train and breaking surface than muc-off, and it cleans the rest plenty well enough even when diluted. Can get it in pretty much any size tub right up to over a couple of gallons too hahaha.

Indeed :thumbsup: I'd say it sounds pretty hopeful for the 26"ers

I'll be going, and can bring a 180mm A2Z rotor if you want? Won't be there until about 11:40 though. Edit: Can't spell

Yep, I'm pretty sure that if you run a front freewheel it will be too short. If no though, then go for it, the Shimanos are good quality BBs and the onza ones have a habit of snapping, which isn't fun.

Bloody hell, yeah, my BMF on revolver with an ACS and Tioga DH on it only weighs about 2.3/2.4kg

Cool, make it saturday then Edit: cant spell

Indeed, including me hopefully, but I'm on about next sunday

Should have my 24" Iolo working at some point this week, anyone up for going for a ride in Taunton next saturday?

I know I've said it before, but please don't ride with those forks! They are dangerous! Aluminium fails suddenly, at unexpected times, it could be when your riding home on the road at like 15mph with a car behind you for all you know, or any other time, not just when you impact the forks, it could just be a bump in the path or something. Front teeth are nice things to have, try and hang onto yours! Anyway, yeah, paint looks good. You can paint things with just the paint, but with light colours the colour below might show easily without primer, and gloss finishes wont be very glossy without lacquer, and the paint wont be quite as tough. You do always have to sand down the old finish though, or the paint wont stick properly.

They can't form to actualy make a metal, unless they are metal, but I have heard of sdhisives and things that become as strong as some metals. Give argos racing cycles a ring, they do BB sleaving for £55, cheeper than a new frame, and is a permenant fix. Will mean you can sell the frame second hand aswell when you do get a new one.