Shaun H

Nah his sister's fitter than that, me and the Brummie lads were perving on her when his Dad came to pick him up at the DJ Pompy ride

If it's cracked where I've highlighted that wouldn't seem unusual if that's where you're trying to describe. It's the member which will be carrying the load from the brake caliper to the hub and the highlighted areas is of minimum cross section. The "small arm" as you described it will just be stiffening the central area and won't carry much force.

The Ashima/Rockman rotor seems to be pretty well designed, but it's also very light. Where has it cracked, it's either a material failure or a not so obvious stress raiser. EDIT: It's probably worth mentioning that one generation (maybe the first) of Hope Mono Trial rotors had a problem with premature cracking which seemed to be down to an unforeseen stress concentration in the design.

If Halfords didn't have such a quick staff turnover I'd still be able to do this

I do everything I can myself. If I don't have the tools and it works out much cheaper to use the LBS than buy the tool (disc mount facing, BB thread chasing etc) then I'll do that but generally I'll do as much as I can.

That seriously shouldn't be allowed! Nice shots

A little South of Paris

Torque has to be transferred across the hub to the other flange. The disc side will take up a large proportion of this but there is a lot to go around! There's some epoxy around with very impressive shear strength though, I'm just curious as to whether they'd used a mechanical interface too, as that would almost eliminate that mode of failure.

Top Gun stuff machined at top speed? Be interesting to see how the disc hubs stand up to the torque. Any idea whether the carbon is purely bonded in there? Or is there a mechanical interface too?

Haha! Strictly speaking I'm analysing the computer/software's analysis but I guess it's still not good english!

I couldn't tell you definitively but you'll have problems with indexing as that mech is designed for 9 speed drivetrains.

All rim brakes will lose performance when the rim gets dirty/wet, if you keep your rims clean after dirty rides you should see the returns in brake performance. Personally I find I get more "feel" using an oil bleed. People use water bleeds in trials as it is a thinner liquid, meaning the brake can go from open to locked to open again quicker. A water bleed for your intentions will probably exacerbate the problem of locking the wheels and be detrimental to feel but not significantly. If the brakes are already bled with oil I'd just leave them as they are, you can then avoid the problems sub zero temperatures bring!

Whatever you do don't use salt! It will quickly corrode the steel return spring in the lever and any other steel parts in the system which could play havoc with the seals. If this is for an actual road bike on 700c wheels I'd reconsider using HS33s. Even on the widest 700c tyres you have a relatively small contact patch through which you can only put limited stopping traction. With decent pads a normal road caliper should give you more than enough stopping power, an HS33 could be all too easy to grab and it will quickly lock the wheels, particularly dangerous when making turns (especially in the wet as you mentioned you'd be riding in). If you are committed to using Maggies though, Koolstop pads are probably a good bet, you can pick them up pretty cheap from what I remember too.

Watch out for turbo corrosion on the steel, carbon fibre can cause even aluminium to corrode badly without galvanic protection. The epoxy may insulate it enough though. Awesome project anyhow, can't get much more standover clearance than that!

I thought this might be the best place to mention I'm selling some size 9 Gaerne shoes on eBay: HERE

Ultimately I'd love to design a frame but at least for now I'll be sticking to components. Thanks for the feedback so far.

It's with great excitement I can now formally announce the launch of Hook Designs! After months of hard work, testing and on occasion frustration, our first product is now available to purchase. Many of you may have read the Tribalzine article posted a couple of weeks ago which introduced the company and the bashring. Those of you who have ridden with me for any significant amount of time will probably know that I can talk about the technical side of trials (and cycling in general) all day long. It's a combination of this fascination and the culmination of the skills I've acquired studying Mechanical Engineering and the year of placement work I've done in the aerospace industry that inspired me to design and produce my own components. First product as you may have guessed is a bashring, hopefully have another part out in the near future. I've got a small team of riders/testers who will be bringing exciting videos of their riding with Hook Designs parts. Currently this includes Kieran Whitefield, Steve "Steve-O" Rogers, Alec Wray and Kyle Livesy. I'd like to give special credit to Charlie Ward who produced the logo and typography that characterises Hook Designs. He has provided a level of support that far surpasses what I could have expected. Also a special thanks to all the friends and riders who have provided feedback and helped to get this off the ground. To keep up with all the latest, add Hook_Designs on Twitter. So onto the bashring: The Hook Designs UCI style bashring is the most advanced take on the two sided bash concept seen on the market. Designed for use with screw on cranks it features two totally different sides to achieve a competition level weight with street worthy strength. The product has been through a long design process including FEA analysis and an extensive prototyping phase. Produced from aerospace grade 7075-T6 aluminium alloy to a superb level of quality, the bashring is aimed at the increasing market of weight conscious riders who still expect long life from their purchases. • Full CNC machined 7075-T6 aluminium alloy construction. • Can be orientated to suit left or right footed riders. • High strength primary side and a light weight “switch” side gives a tough bashring with a low weight. • 5mm wide base and contact area. • 3mm thick centre section strategically lightened with shallow machining on primary side and matching machined out holes on the other. • Built-in lip allows the bashring to be run with any freewheel. • Laser etched logo and Hook Designs font. • Suitable for 18T sprockets (88mm diameter). • Weight: 26g Available at Tartybikes now!

Yep!

Really enjoyable video!

R-R? Or 2nd tier supplier?

Nothing can make you feel manlier... But in all seriousness, if you're doing more than 10 miles it's worth wearing some decent lycra shorts even if it's just under some normal shorts.

I'm an aerospace quality engineer at a company called Praxair Surface Technologies. We apply coatings to jet engine parts (and gas turbine/helicopter) which can increase service life around 7 times. It can be interesting work but most people don't realise just how many standards you have to ensure you work by in aerospace which involves horrific amounts of reports and general admin! Especially if the work is with Rolls-Royce, which most of ours is! I finish in 2 weeks as this job is for my year sandwhich placement and I go back to finish studying at Aston Uni in October. My other "job" will hopefully be apparent in the near future.

My mum has just got one of those!

I use it for my new project @Hook_Designs

There's less than 5% difference in stiffness between 6061 and 7075. The difference is mostly in the materials' strength and corrosion resistance.