Shaun H

I'm sure Steve at Heatsink has made alot of posts about measurements for 4 bolt mounts around the time he was developing his 4-bolt booster. Have a search through his posts and I'm sure you'll find a very accurate measurement for it.

Not really? There's no way he'd be able to sell a used disc brake for the same amount as a brand new unfitted one is there... I wouldn't bother, all the clarks mechanical disc brakes I've tried on other bikes have been a bag of wank. Not tried it on a trials bike obviously but from memory they were just generally....crap.

Well that's the problem really isn't it, I think we've all heard that in a couple of recent threads but there was no evidence shown to prove it *at all* in any of them. Just speculation. Here we can clearly see Vince is a beast though..

If I wound the TPA all the way out I'd be creating a sort of vacuum if you get me. Because there isn't enough water in there I've had to wind the TPA all the way in to get decent lever travel. If there was air in the system I'm sure it'd be much more apparent and my lever would be like a sponge. I can put more water in it if I wind out the TPA, as this will be retracting the lever piston whilst the slaves cannot retract anymore as they are already fully in. I can't think of it being anything other than there not being enough fluid in the brake.

There's definitely no air in the system. The pistons are not bottoming out there's simply not enough fluid in the system meaning I have to run the TPA all the way in. The brake doesn't lack power and it's solid when the pads are hitting the rim not before. I've thought of a quick fix which might work - if I submerge the lever, undo the grub screw then undo the TPA will it suck in more fluid? I'm assuming it must do as it can't take any fluid from the slaves they're already backed all the way in. Just an idea...

Machining Ti is *VERY* expensive. Special cutting oil, drill bits (or whatever they're called in CNC mills) and other gubbins are required. No idea why they've changed although the increase in costs of Ti sounds about right.

Hence it being a custom frame for one particular rider?

What if I submerged the lever in a bucket instead of pouring? It'd be hard to make sure it's the highest part of the system but as it would be completely submerged would it matter? I'd have thought it would be better than pouring as there'd be much less chance of air entering the system?

WRONG! That's exactly what I thought when my bike was being ghey and I argued extensively with Ko Ko about it. I ended up stripping the threads in an Azonic stem trying to tighten them enough to stop my headset coming loose but it only gave me an extra 5 minutes riding at most. I'm not sure what it is now but it can't be the stem not being tight enough.

FB Racing My Dad's (fully street legal) 1934 Ford Coupe drag car. It's a bit fast 0-60 around 1.7 seconds, 0-100 in about 4 and 1/4 mile in 8.4 seconds. Aiming to break into 7s this season... If you look at the "History" section you can see the other cars he's had/raced before: A 1955 Vauxhall Wyvern, 1970 Ford Mach 1 Mustang and a 1980 Vauxhall Cavalier. So much fun to be in it, even just driving around sensibly, the noise is phenomenal, even with full silencing kit and the fuel pump is almost as loud as the engine itself! On just 1/4ish throttle the surroundings just seem to go into a blur! Shame he can't take passengers on the track... ghey.

Put a little bit of grease between the stem clamp and the handlebars.

It's either that or you need a new star nut. When my headset was doing this it was driving me nuts trying to figure out what was causing it. As soon as I put in a new star nut (using the proper tool) all was ok again.

I enjoyed that video which, I'll be honest, surprised me. Good riding for, again I'll be honest, a girl However I did find it a little bit frustrating. You don't seem to put much effort in! I think if you learnt how to really put some of that power that you must have in reserve in you could go much bigger. Keep up the good work!

I have a water bleed in my maggie but over time I seem to have lost fluid from the system. This means that I now have the TPA all the way in but the slaves are only a tiny bit pushed out. There's definitely no air in the system as the brake is solid once it hits the rim. All it needs (I think) is more fluid in the system. Could anyone explain how I can get more fluid in there without rebleeding? Don't understand these closed systems :$ Gimme a disc anyday!

I f**king hate it, played it on my brothers computer (mine's too "noobish"). There's icons absolutely f**king everywhere, I can barely make out enemies there's so much shite on the screen. Seriously seriously irritating. Without them I may be able to begin to enjoy it but I dunno. I'll have to see when (read if) I buy myself the 6600GT and 1GB RAM I keep looking at.... But best game ever has to be multiplayer Goldeneye. I remember me and a load of my mates all cramming into someone's bedroom and playing it all day. It'd get really late and then we'd all call our parents and say we're staying over (their parents were easy) and then play it all night as well. Sooooooooo much fun. As for modern games: CS: S and DoD: S are my favourites recently. Not that I game much at all nowadays

Seriously, the "game cards" collecting was bad enough. My brother used to bum this, spent hours on it everyday and even used the house phone to be on the pay monthly shite. My parents were so confused as to what the things was on our bill... I don't wanna go and ask him anything about it though, it might remind him and he'll start again, trying to stop him being a geek *all* his life. NEEEERRRRRRRRRRRRDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

Is he squeezing for a shit? Is he sunburnt? Is he embarassed? Or is she just plain badass and not bothered.

You can get Juicy 7s with carbon lever blades already.

Looks to be a bit XC to me. Caliper certainly doesn't look as big as the Juicy 5/7 so I'd imagine there'd be less power/grab w.e to it.

Gash. Alot of work's gone into it from the sounds of the article as well. They could of done much better than that though. Wouldn't mind one of their full faces though

Knob. Carbon bars like Onzas/Pazzaz will be fine. Just don't buy anything like FSA K-Forces, those *will* kill you if used for trials Easton CNT DHs could be ok I suppose, but they're double the price of Onzas and use standard clamps. I know which I'd choose.

In which case they're the best frames in the whole world and *nothing* can beat them and they're worth every penny.

Please don't base your choice of frame on cosmetics. It's the stupidest thing to do I've heard in a long time...

The cat died? *prepares to feel really guilty if it has...*

pow pow I'd post my trials bike but I thought this thread would be far more amusing with this in....