Krisboats

Definately, i was pretty much on the edge of my seat for the most part of it. I love the way so much seems to go on per episode instead of dragging the storyline out like lost seems to.

Theres no skater or surfer options... which is the majority of stuff i wear, so i put chav just to mess up your results (next time you'll think it through ). EDIT: I like the way you put all these different dress styles down and then have an option for normal. I understand the context you've used it in but its funny how you've associated none of the other options as being normal.

We have a new gap for you from another phone box.... to a marble bench in the centre of town

I made a couple a while ago, its pretty easy with photoshop and a spare few minutes. I'll post them up in a few minutes when i find them.

Buy a set of dumbells (sp?) instead

I don't get the whole wheelabse thing... What makes a bike feel longer is the cockpit size. You can't simply not do things anymore just because the front wheel is an extra couple of cm's forwards. When i first got my T-Rex after my base i was still bunnyhopping it and spinning it fine, despite it being 45mm longer.... i think people make a lot of fuss over nothing.

well i guess i've spent about £400-500 on my bike upgrading various things and selling other bits off. I now have a usually reliable and decent spec bike trials bike and an okay dirt jump bike.

Is there a button with an S on it somewhere? Mine has S on it... which i thought in my n00b days represented the fact that the button makes the screen shake and wobble, then sharpen up. It WILL have the button, you just need to find it.

And if it still does it i would say the easiest and cheapest solution would be to get hold of a new power supply, in comparison to a new motherboard a new power supply is generally cheaper and is far easier to replace than a motherboard. Try out something like memtest or prime95 to check for system stability. If it fails on memtest then you need new ram, or to replace one of your current ones if you have more than one. If it fails on prime95 after replacing the power supply then its a cpu/mobo/hard drive problem.

Because your driveside trouser leg is further back, around mid chainstay kind of area so your trouser just rubs on the chain... instead of right foot forwards, where the trouser leg is roughly in line with the bb .

Double post

My tft has one It was only cheap, maybe they put it on by accident .

But if you had a solid 4 bolt booster, the flex wouldn't be much of a problem at all. And if the diameter was reduced by 0.5mm, then it wouldn't be quite as bad, while at the same time offereing a better brake. Although i think someone mentioned him having bought the seals from magura in the other thread about the brake so i guess it'll be the same size as the magura ones.

I like tartybikes, don't get me wrong... their service has always been friendly quick and fast. But chain reaction are even better, more parts, more stock, and free fast delivery. Not to mention silly low prices on the majority of things (pro II trials is £10 cheaper at chainreaction than at tarty and with free delivery. Rear king ISO is £20 cheaper and in stock). As of yet, tartybikes aren't quite as good as chainreaction... although i can see them being someday soon.

Everyone would want a more powerful brake. If you could bypass having to choose the right pads and the right grind and the right rim material, combined with a decent booster, just by getting a new lever.... I think people would choose the lever everytime. If you could run it with a half worn grind and poorly set up kool stop pads with the same amount of power as a decent fresh grind and a set of plazzies set up perfectly in the dry then i'm sure to most people it would be an obvious choice. I don't actually like the shape of the damn things though. And they use the crappy new design instead of the older 2004 design. Ah well.... RB lever beats them both

Ha ha, classic... he means CRT... like cathode ray tube, the old style ones that are super huge at the back... from before the days of flatscreens. And i take it you mean CTX as the brand that makes cheap flatscreens. I just found the miscomunication quite funny. Erm, have you tried pressing the de-guass button on the flatscreen? They can be prone to going crazy or blurry sometimes due to interference from things like magnets, being moved etc. The de-guass (sp?) button should sort it out. If not, have you plugged it into the right place and are you sure it was the screen that died last time and not the screen and graphics card?

But its not really R&D is it? They've taken a standard bottom bracket tool fitting and applied it to something that ahppens to be the same size. Hardly a unique idea. I guess if deng really wants his freewheel sold he could just use an alternative fitting on his freewheel like one for a shimano bottom bracket or something. Though i do think its a bit petty of onza to patent the use of someone elses design for bottom bracket tool on a freewheel. Its hardly like they thought of the fitment in the first place and they didn't invent freewheels, so if someone else had been so petty with either of them they'd be f***** because their product would break the copyright laws. EDIT: Are they even allowed to stop people making these freewheels if they've already been made? I think the suntour ones also take this fitting, aswell as falcon freewheels and the Atom ones.

So did i

Measure the size of the threads on the front of the camera. You'll need to screw it on so its that thread size you need.

As most others have said, its what we're used to. However, just because your better at writing with one hand doesn't mean its the better hand for braking. I can pull the rear brake much more forcefully with my left hand despite being right handed. And i feel i'm much more competant at doing front wheel moves with my right hande as the braking co-ordination on the left hand is either on, half-way on, or off. I can feather with the right hand much more easily and so its perfect for wheelswaps and stoppies.

Full lever, cylinder, carbon clamp.... the whole works

I've ridden at my old college before, it was alright i guess. Pretty decent tapping wall there... not that i ever managed it. Ridden my uni a fair few times. Its pretty good to ride there too .

Ha ha, i'm just glad i passed I like the look of the slaves, they look like the clamping are has been spread out more for greater adjustability. However, i don't see how his lever is going to warrant me getting rid of my current RB lever. So i don't think i'll be getting one either way. Is it just me or does the lever look really plain and boring on the front? I would like some kind of shape or even a logo or something to make it look a bit less "home-made".

Overclocking my 6600 by 10% gave me an extra 15fps in CS:S when it went up to around 40% overclocked i got about 40-50fps extra, quite a big difference really. Totally depends what game it is and what size your playing at and what you define as "rubbish detail". At 1024x768 the 6600gt should play most games around 6months+ old at high setings at around 30fps. Any higher and you'll be looking at medium settings and any newer and you'll be looking at medium-low depending on your entire setup. EDIT: I think i skimmed your first post, missed most of the info and your computer spec So long as your card is a 256mb or higher (though i think thats the highest 6600's went) you will be able to have high level textures with only losing around 4-5 fps off your 50. Whacking the shaders and lighting up will take a big performance hit on the fps, as will anti-aliasing and anisotropic filtering. The sort of thing you should be playing at is: Textures: high world detail: high Anti alisaing: none Anisotropic filtering: trilinear, maybe 2x if it can hack it Shaders: medium (might need low) lighting: medium (again may need low) Effects: Medium And if you didn't know, the human eye can't distinguish between framerates at anything over 24 fps. So long as your minimum framerate is at 25 you'll be fine with playing the game.