nb88

My back wheel is quite far over to the non-drive side, meaning on the drive side my brake pad is really far from the rim and on the non-drive side the brake pad is rubbing slightly. To re-dish the wheel, do I just need to loosen non-drive side spokes and tighten drive side exactly the same? (quarter turn?). Should I loosen non-drive side first or tighten other side first? The spokes are all pretty tight and the wheel is true. I've made a mess trueing wheels before so just after some advice on how to dish the wheel! Cheers

My friend has done this in the UK, you can apparently pay for use of a US proxy server or something like that? I have no idea how it works, but there is a way.

Its cardio and strength really, absolute killer. You can do it with bench for upper body, most exercises really but its much better with compound exercises - deadlift, bench, squat, front squat...etc

She is finally complete... Spec: Inspired Fourplay frame Pashley forks Atomlab rims on hope bulb hubs (suprisingly good rear hub so far) Magura HS33 rear with Atomz pads - will need to grind the rim soon, pretty rubbish on my half-painted smooth rim SD7 front V-brake - absolutely amazing! Wish i'd gone V on the rear now! Easton EA50 bars, System Ex stem DMR V12 Magnesium pedals Middleburn RS7s with Cloudnine bash (18-13 ratio) Echo BB Inspired seat Tryall tensioner Chris King headset KMC Kool K710 chain

I used to gym a lot - mainly leg and big compound exercises - squats, deadlifts, overhead squats (very very good exercise). Not been going for the last year but I'll go again after uni probably. Definately helps trials though. The 'tabata' is the ultimate exercise! Especially when done with squats or overhead squats http://www.t-nation.com/free_online_article/sports_body_training_performance/the_tabata_method

Just found some ooooooooooold photos and had to bump this post! My second ever trials bike, onza t-pro, complete with modified Zoo sticker, hahaha. Won the NASS 2004 beginner comp on this bad boy! 3rd bike, old monty x-lite, absolutely amazing but killed my back riding it Oldest pic I have of me riding! I've had...onza t-bird, onza t-pro, monty x-lite, zoo! python, echo control '04 (still going strong, i love it), and now inspired fourplay. Wow i'm getting old

Hope bulb at the moment on my 24", running 22:17 but 18:13 very soon. On my 26" I use a king, always preferred freehubs to freewheels and you can't beat middleburn cranks!

I'm wondering which gear ratio to use on my 24 at the mo, as I have a 18T sprocket on the cranks now... I run 22:18 on the 26" which is perfect, 22:17 on the 24" is a tiny bit lighter but not noticeable. But with the 18T up front, the choice of 18:13 or 18:14... 18:13 will give a harder gear than 22:17, 18:14 will be slightly softer. Really not sure which cog I should get! Only just got the 24" so I don't know what sort of riding I'll be doing on it...hopefully a bit of street and some trialsy stuff aswell. I'll probably go for the 13T to be honest.

That does sound like a good deal. I got my iphone in january and 3 gave me a slightly better deal than Tesco, had to ring up to ask for a 12 month contract though. 3 have been good for me so far, I hear bad things about them but haven't had any problems.

They do the cheapest deals around on iPhones...?

Best deal overall are the shorter contracts. I'm with 3 on a 12 month contract (think you have to phone to get it). I paid £229 up front, £32 a month for 12 months. So thats £613 total, for 500 mins, 1GB internet, loads of texts. Tesco also do similar deals to this (I haggled with 3 using the tesco deal to get them to give me more minutes and internet). The longer term contracts tend to be more expensive, e.g. 3 do a £100-ish up front fee, then £30 a month for 24 months I think...ends up more expensive. Depends how much you can afford up front really.

Saw it on facebook earlier, really cool video mate. You have an amazing grandma! and the editing was awesome. Well done

I used to watch Do The Goon again and again, awesome vid! Are you still riding? Got any new vids?

Vs can be really good if set up properly, theres a range of trials brake pads for V brakes now that didnt use to be around so they can be just as good as maguras if not better. If I were you I would stick with a decent V brake, plus magura evo mounts really suck. If you had 4-bolt mounts then a magura would be a better option.

Kate middletons sister is HAWT

Well the BB kept loosening off, on both sides. On the side of the BB it says 73mm shell - use spacer to the right 73mm shell w/e-type der. or chainguide - no spacer So i guess even with a 73mm frame it needs a spacer to fit properly, so I need extra spacers for a 68mm.

Woah! Get well soon Chris! Such a talented rider. LROB you are a moron

Awesome vid love the music aswell. Milton Keynes looks really good, will come along next time

I have no front brake at the moment. To test the headset I just lean the front wheel on a wall and rock forwards and backwards. The wobble was very slight, but i'm just a bit worried it could end up causing something a lot worse like a flared head tube. I glued the crown race onto the fork and it seems to have gotten rid of the problem. Not sure how long it'll last, i've not been for a proper ride on the bike yet, but if it happens again I'll probably try a new headset! Shame really cause king's look so pimp! I havent got a vice but have installed all my headsets in the past using the hammer and block of wood method...never had any problems. Come to think of it I had a king on an old zoo python, and that had a lot of problems.

The electrical tape won't last though, with a small ride and some heavy front wheel moves, it started feeling loose again. I've read that you can also centre punch holes on the steerer crown-race tube and the raised notches are enough to hold the crown race. Anyone have any experience doing this?

I'm not sure I see what you mean? The little metal bearing race that goes on the fork steerer tube is a loose fit on the steerer so I think thats causing the headset wobble... I just put a bit of electrical tape underneath the crown race and it sorted it, so that must be the problem. Tempted to glue it on to the steerer, but does any one have any other ideas? I'll look for spare crown races online though...

Basically, I can feel a very slight wobble when i put my front wheel up against something and rock the bars back and forth. I get this no matter how much I tighten the headset. Its the same when I take the front wheel out and rest on the forks, so it's definately the headset. I've got a Chris King headset in a Fourplay frame with pashley forks, I installed it yesterday and the cups are very solid in the frame, cant feel any movement (by hand obviously). The crown race is quite loose on the steerer though, it can spin and I can install/remove it by hand fairly easily. I installed the cups using a block of wood and a mallet, but I was very careful and can't feel any movement in the cups at all, so i'm pretty sure it's not a slightly flared headtube. Pretty sure it's to do with the crown race, but is there anything I can do to fix this? I have no idea whether its the fork steerer or the crown race itself - is it common to be able to fit them by hand or are they usually a very snug fit? If I ride with the headset like this, is it likely to cause any further damage, such as a flared headtube? Cheers

Can anyone recommend some pads with good hold but are quiet? I have heatsink yellows on a grind on my echo control, perfect, but very loud. I'm happy with them for my 'pure' trials bike but I want some quieter ones for my 24".

Thanks. This BB was out of an ashton ET frame, but I can't remember if the threads were showing on that... I'll ride it for now anyway and just check its tight every ride.

Yep, I'm using a 5mm spacer but there is still a big gap on the non-drive side. BB is perfectly tight with no wobble. I'm going to build the bike up today anyway but might invest in a new BB to look nicer! Was just worried about stripped threads etc. as its a nearly-new frame! Cheers Ali