AdamR28

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=52676 Edit: Too slow in my old age

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=82171 Whatstandwell indeed

Hahaha, amazing, I'd forgotten about that pic! Truly awesome... I need to have a look for the night out pictures as well!

Mink too? That weekend was a beast...

Results -> http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/ymsa/Round2Web.xls

Yep, twas a good day! Turned up at half 10 expecting to observe but was bullied into riding So, thanks to Joe for the bike, Bennett for the helmet and Dave, Steph, Nick, Jon and Char for food and drink! Also to all the observers. How did everyone else find it? I think its fair to say the sections were a lot easier today, some really low scores, I think it ended up more fun since people weren't getting disheartened after 5ing most of the first lap... haha. Cheers Adam PS: Fire me the results across in an email Dave and I'll sort em out now

They were only made in 119... so all you can do is buy an oversize 119 and a normal 127.5, and swap the axles over

"I've had the same jeans on for 4 days now..." Well change them you mong!! Chemical Romance are getting a right hammering on Radio 1 this week as well, getting annoying... And the people answering the 'chemical' questions are so funny

http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=95359

If he still has a shock on it then the best was is to just measure the old one... You need the length (eye to eye) and the stroke (amount of travel). The spring rate should also be printed on the spring Ads

Directions now up, see you there! http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=82171 Cheers Adam

Well usually there's these two tubes called the down tube and the top tube - you put it on the end of those... Being a little more serious, the head tube just ends up where the rest of the geo tells it to. If your wheelbase is X, back end A, head angle B, fork length C and the BB rise Y, then the head tube will just end up in the right place to conform to all these other dimensions. That make sense? Of course you could make head tube placement one of the things you base the rest of the bike's geo around, but for all other frames at the moment it seems to be the other way around...

Guano Apes - Open Your Eyes (or is it Mind?) Alos check out: http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....showtopic=47941

Haha Edit: 6mins 25... crazy

Rightyho... is the steel section on the drive side of the hub still intact? The serrations should be more than enough to keep the tensioner in place - even without serrations they usually are fine. Also, the QR, might be worth some lube on the cam mechanism. Hope QRs don't offer much tension compared with Shimano, and when dry they really are difficult to get tight. I would also make sure the inside face of your frame is nice and clean, same with the arm of the tensioner. All these little tweaks should be enough to keep it in place nicely Ads

What hub and QR do you have?

190mm should do the trick... might need a spacer with that but best to be on the long side! Cheers Adam OT: Yep, be with you tomorrow

M5 x 0.8, and you can helicoil to that size, yep.

You're doing well Dave! I did mine in 48 hours and almost missed the hand in cos my mates printer broke... score! Best of luck

Depends on stem and headset, and how many spacers you want to run... let me know and I'll have a good idea

What a gay Nice pics Joe Cheers!

Nobody, you'd get £1.10

5/6/7/8 shifters and mechs are all compatible, 9 speed is different spacing... so, you'll be fine with what you have now. Ads

Results up! http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/ymsa/Rnd1Web.xls Adam

Full results -> http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/ymsa/Rnd1Web.xls Cheers Adam