forteh

Of course, if it remains in emulsion then its all good, if it starts to get sticky slaves again then a rethink is in order Never used procool (my supermoto is air cooled ) but it may work, dont know the lubrication properties of propylene glycol though; a quick scan of wikipedia gave these application results: - :D :D Should be ok I reckon, perhaps you could mix it 50:50 with more distilled water (procool is 50% distilled already) to give a lighter feel

Friday was pretty good, my sister/brother in law came round with my new neice and we had a curry and catch up All good except whilst clearing up afterwards a 3" diameter candle was accidentally left ontop of the storage heater - wake up on saturday morning with a house full of acrid white smoke after half the candle melted into the heater Unfortunately the snake, leopard gecko and 2 crested geckos were in the room and all had tankfulls of said smoke Opened all the windows and suffered a cold house for saturday night (damn you economy7 ) and seemed to get all of the wax burnt out of the heater as it had stopped smoking. I woke up at 3:15 sunday morning to another house full of smoke so opened all windows again. Slept in a draft and my back siezed up whilst riding on sunday All in friday the 13th was cool, saturday 14th and sunday the 15th werent so much

Without the emulsifier (washing up liquid) the oil and water would seperate and the oil rise to the top of the system (master cylinder) leaving the slaves with plain water to let them sieze up as per a normal water bleed. As to how long the oil/water will stay emulsified Im not too sure, hopefully the surfactants in the washing up liquid will do their job edit: @ben: You may be right, fwiw I used persil aloe vera washing up liquid (good for me hands ) only time will see if it stays in emulsion. @muel: An emulsion is a mixture of 2 unblendable liquids, in this case oil and water

Too late, my mum beat you by almost 40 years

Screenwash is just antifreeze, not that you really need it now but just in case

If you have a 36h rear hub then the dx32 is a good choice - strong, holds a grind well and not excessively heavy if you drill it If youre limited to 32 hole then the trialtech is as good as any really.

After getting pissed off with having to constantly oil the seals on my maggie slaves I decided to look at alternatives to a water bleed (specifically one that contained oil to provide the lubrication). I found some silicone shock oil from my RC car and tried it, too thick the slaves took too long to return (possibly the feed hole in the RB lever is slightly smaller than the stock maggie) so that was a no goer After consulting my dad (being the retired mad boffin/inventor/general all round clever bloke that he is) he suggested a simple emulsion of oil and water. So this is what I did.... Mix approximately: - 5 parts warm water 4 parts screen wash 1 part normal cycle oil A small drop of washing up liquid Stir it all together in a tub and bleed the brakes as per normal; I syringe bled as I couldnt be arsed to take the brake off or mix up enough emulsion to bath bleed The lever feel is exactly the same as water, lovely and light with a very quick return speed and it solved the sticking piston seals I was suffering with (which I hadnt bothered to sort out). Went for a ride and the slaves are returning as theyre meant to, the brake works perfectly and all being well everything should stay lubricated now. Its probably been done by someone before but I dont recall and the search didnt throw up anything, sorry if it has been covered before

16:14 on 165 cranks on stock

Theyre awesome, need to be a light rider or buttery smooth though; well unless you run silly pressure Im running 20psi in mine, but then Im only 12 stone and I dont really go big but then Im not buttery smooth Adam, is that a 2.2 or 2.4 moutain king?

Im in lichfield Not seen you about before but then Im not out all the time, will have to catch up at some point. Not ridden burton in ages, gotta be 4 years now

Yeah its hardknott pass in the lakes Hardknott and Wrynose passes are both joined by one section of road along the valley bed, its fantastic on a supermoto

Probably your lack of capitals I was validated within a couple of hours.

Welcome to the forums, I suspect you will be validated within a couple of days at most if you take care with your spelling and punctuation With regards to getting a bike, you can either have a look-see through the classifieds for a frame and build it up at a pinch with some of your spare parts; alternatively there are some absolute stonking complete bike deals on here. For frame choice I would say the best thing to do is try to get a ride on a number of peoples different bikes to see what suits, you will likely find that it will take a couple of frame/geometry changes before you start to find something youre really happy with. You can learn to ride basic trials on a mountainbike (I did about 11 years ago) but having an up to date geometry makes a world of difference. There arent many trials specific shops in general, most people on here use either tartybikes, selectbikes or deltabikes - all three have a good reputation as online sellers

Ive found that short chainstays combined with higher BB makes the bike sit on the back wheel easier, my hifi (+55bb 375cs) was awesome on the back wheel and would sit there for days, pity its a bit of a pig to ride though The triton feels no different to me on the back wheel (+30bb 385cs) but it has much longer reach (steeper head angle) and is more useable geometry - a much more rounded bike On the same note my mates old BT5.0 had zero bb rise but a very long reach, that also sat on the back wheel without a thought - too long and a bit of a barge though.

Its pretty much impossible to build into a decent wheel, certainly not without having some odd length spokes, why do you have to get 36h?

Done it on my supermoto in the wet, was mildly amusing Most cars need to be down to 1st get up some of the switchbacks, I wouldnt want to ride down it without a good set of disk brakes

Hill for pants

May not work, the aluminium crank will expand faster than the steel sprocket and likely wedge it on tighter If you have a decent sized vice that is bolted down to a solid bench/the floor then you should be able to hold the sprocket with some chain, stick a decent sized steel pipe over the crank arm and twist it off. See this handy autocad sketch that I did a little while ago (obviously replace wheel with crank arm ) edit: waay too slow, muel got in there whilst I was searching for that acad sketch - bah!

I think you can discount curtis and leeson as that looks (to me) like an aluminium weld, I would say its too big to be a steel weld bead; although it could be titanium Im probably wrong

Im not saying that its a bad thing to do, far from it; more that perhaps a more diplomatic approach may be more successful. That said I have had no involvement in the past and dont really know any of the history in this case, just my opinon

Oooh When my 16t super pro bash dies I may have to invest in one of these, especially if they make a 16t version

Also is spamming the facebook wall with lots of repeated shouted messages really going to win their hearts? I agree with ben

20/16 is very high ratio for stock, consider dropping down to 18/16 and it will probably be easier. As for the smoothness, check your spokes are tight, also pedal/BB/headset/wheel bearings for play and wear; any looseness will come through the frame as knocks and rattles - to me a silent (not rattling) bike feels so much nicer edit: rear tyre shouldnt be the culprit, most people run a dual ply rear tyre.

Cant help with the specific model but, when I had my 84 polo breadwagon the filler neck on the fuel tank rotted through (design fault as its directly infront of the rear tyre and unguarded) so I replaced the fuel tank. All of the fuel lines were running along the centre of the car on the underside and most of it seemed to be plastic tubing which was just push fitted onto spigots. Chances are with the recent cold weather that one of the fuel lines has split/cracked and its weeping fuel, only way to check is to jack it up and have a look see

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