forteh

Its only the supersonics which are lightweight, the protections are pretty heavy in comparison, tarty arent the cheapest on the conti tyres; that said the 20 quid mountain king on CRC is the bog standard one, not the supersonic. Cheapest mountain kings I found were a place called velokit, 30 quid for a supersonic 2.2; could always try tartys price matching http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=21537 <=== thats the mountain king you want almost 150g lighter than the cheaper one

Injectors need cleaning perhaps? I dont know much about diesels so just a random stab in the dark

But if you look at it 22/18 is the closest gear ratio to 18/16, certainly much closer than 22/19

Ive got a rubber queen rear and its awesome, just need to run higher pressures to keep it more stable - grip is phenomenal though Ive just put a 2.2 mountain king supersonic on the front and they arent 478g, mine weighed in at 510 so if youre really counting the grams bear that in mind - that said its still a silly light tyre in the same sticky compound These new conti tyres kick ass! edit: Just been out on the bike and tested the mountain king, its rather grippy and super bouncy (like the rubber queen) pigeons seem to float up much easier now I dont think the 2.4 mountain king would be suitable for the back, the carcass comes up narrow - the 2.2 front is actually no wider than my old 2.1 irc mythos, the 2.4 is supposed to be narrower than a 2.35 maxxis; weird really as the 2.4 rubber queen is bigger than a 2.5 high roller

18/16 is 1.125:1 ratio. 22/18 is 1.122:1 ratio. Slightly harder but the closest you will get

Surely its identical to any normal gear system on a mountainbike?

No buying or selling before validation

You never looked at ducatis desmodromic valvetrain? Work that f**ker out The wear on a bike isnt a major issue as the mileage and service intervals are generally very low compared to a car, for example my 2001 supermoto has done about 7500 miles and had best part of 10 full services

Not read all the thread then? One of the cam pulley bearing shit itself, shed the belt and lunched the valvetrain

The cam sits under the rocker (which has a needle roller cam follower) which in turn actuates the valve. Have uploaded a page from the engine manual which helps explain. The older oilcooled and early watercooled gsxr valvetrain was also done this was, not sure about modern bikes though. As will said there is no reason why there shouldnt be a hydraulic tappet aswell as rockers, on bikes theyre either shim buckets or screw adjusters, its much shorter service intervals though and easier to check edit: sort of beaten to it, exactly the same principle though edit: I bought the manual off ebay in pdf format so I dont really think there are going to be repurcusions from me posting a jpeg of a photocopied service manual for what is technically and obsolete engine :D

My ohc motorbike engine has rockers and a cambelt, funny that - Why cant an ohc engine have rockers?

Another joe blow here, 29 quid from halfords

I seem to remember the cheap crane creek on tarty is pretty low stack height, failing that the trialtech stem is pretty short stack height

If youre buying new cranks then yeah it should work fine, just be aware of the lockring coming undone, I believe this only affects certain freewheels though

If its 22t on the front its almost bound to be a 4 or 5 bolt ring, in which case you wont be able to screw your freewheel on.

My pet cats hate the hoover, masking tape on their noses, the pet snake and the shower

Im only 29 so still quite young, still over twice the age of some people on here though Im consistently been the oldest on all the groups rides Ive attended

Had a sort of cambelt failure on my old 1.25 zetec-s fiesta* when turning on the starter motor, it lunched the top end of the engine. I got a replacement head complete off ebay for cheap, top end gasket kit and sold the lot as spares and repair to the welder at work who put it back on the road without much difficulty. I dont know how different the new ford engines are but at motorway speeds a timing failure will destroy the engine The fact the garage has taken it apart before even running any diagnostics on it seems alittle odd though, that said a timing failure should be pretty easy to diagnose. FWIW I was quoted over 500 quid just in parts to rebuild my fiesta head, that was minimal parts and assuming the casting could be re-used; the valves were horrifically expensive, close to 60 quid a piece I think they quoted (genuine ford parts from the local ford dealer though). Good luck with the engine *Changed the cambelt myself and forgot to retorque the lower pulley before turning the key :$ The engine turned over on the starter and instantly jammed solid with a large crunch - of the 16 valves in the engine 5 of them snapped, and all but 4 of the remaining ones were bent beyond repair - pistons 2, 3 & 4 had damage and large gouges http://www.fortyone30.eclipse.co.uk/fiesta/piston2%263.JPG http://www.fortyone30.eclipse.co.uk/fiesta/piston4.JPG

Agreed, the style is much nicer to watch

You mean frenchie

I made a chain runner/guide from an old snapped plastic tyre lever, used a stanley knife to carve a groove and it was fine

Pretty sure they are M3 socket head cap screws, not sure on the length but guessing 3-5 mm?

I doubt its the cambelt, you should have heard some horrific mechanical destruction if it was Additionally if it was turning over without any nasty noises (on the battery) then its not the cambelt. I dont think the festa engine is non-interference so if the belt goes it destroys the valves with lots of mechanical jamming and gouging, unless you were super quick on the clutch the car wouldnt coast to a halt. I would guess at something electrical, possibly with the fuel supply.

Have you cleared your internet cache? Poor quality wires will not affect the quality of anything viewed over the internt, it will only affect the speed at which its displayed

Was an awesome ride @ adams punctures and even more so at DK being beaten in a wheelswap session by BJH