forteh

Different materials have a different stress/strain curve depending on what characteristics they display under load; what can apply to one material may not apply to another. Just peeves me a bit when manufacturers state that their material is stronger than anyone elses without giving enough info to back up that claim. The xtp2 is known to crack and whether thats generally a design or material failure I dont know. Indeed, I will say no more about k-alone, sorry for the off topic banter

That may be the case, I dont know, but once the yield stress has been reached the material work hardens until failure at the uts. If the yield stress of k-alone is higher than common comparable alloys, then yes it coud be a stronger material for use in a trials frame. Simply stating that the uts is higher than other alloys (about 450 mpa) doesnt mean that its stronger

UTS is worthless though, its the yield strength that you need. Basically what theyre saying is that K-alone is a stiff, brittle material - as being demonstrated with them cracking

To be fair though the peak load on a cambelt is on startup, once the engine is running the loads will reduce to a constant depending on revs, a belt in a trials situation would be subjected to massive shock loads. If its tensioned right it shouldnt slip, but I wouldnt expect belt life to be particularly good (as proven by onza).

The disk you should be able to clean off with some pure alcohol (cellulose thinners will also work), try burning the pads off in a gas burner (may be able to try them in the oven aswell but it will smell) and see if they are recoverable

Not really, the 2 are interchangeable (dot5.0 isnt though). I bleed my hopes slightly differently to that video (even though hope made it :$ ), my method is: - Take the front wheel and pads out, rest the forks on a bit of newspaper and set the brake lever horizontal.Take the resevoir cap off.Put an 8mm ring spanner on the bleed nipple.Slowly squeeze and hold the brake lever.Holding some rag/tissue around the bleed nipple undo the nipple, it should sputter (when the air comes out under pressure); close the bleed nipple and release the lever - the resevoir level should drop.Repeat until it doesnt splutter from the bleed nipple.Close the system as per the video. Ive used this method for years on the hopes and on my motorbikes, the addition of the bleed tube would make it a bit tidier - I dont use it because I cant be arsed to find some tube

Find out where its leaking from and fix it It will either be the bleed nipple, piston seals or banjo bolt; take the caliper off, clean it all down and try squeezing the brake with something between the pistons to pressurise the system - any leaks should become apparant. Check the banjo bolt and bleed nipple are tight, could be you kicked the hose with your heel and its slackened off enough to weep. If its the piston seals that are gone you will need a new pair of seals, the hope borecap tool to take it apart and a rebleed. Could always send it back to adam to check over if you cant find the fault Chances are that you may need a new pair of pads aswell depending whether or not you can burn out all the oil, unlikely to be 100% again though

Dont tighten them up too much, it deforms the diaphragm and causes them to weep Get cleaning then

I found that press ups helped alot with building my arms and shoulders back up (after not riding for a couple of years and starting again), still find that riding gives a more enjoyable workout

Contaminated pads/disk? Does it squeal/honk at all? A misaligned caliper will make the brake feel spongey and it will lose its bite but the hold should still be ok. edit: goddamit 3 seperate people posted the same thing whilst I was typing

Mech design engineer/draughtsman - designing the worlds sewage treatment equipment

I can change my IP from static to dynamic as much as I want, I can also re-assign my external IP but only with a randomly generated one from a block as mentioned before

Mechanical design engineer/draughtsman, doing what I wanted to do since I was young

Ah that would explain it, they aint light frames

I can see 24 holes on one side (guessing there are 48 holes in total) at about 1/2" hole size, in 2.5mm thick aluminium thats a saving of 0.75g per hole and a total saving of 36g

About a fiver

I dont have any dads that ride trials

You wont see any weakening of the frame, it will suddenly fail without warning. Peak stresses in the downtube will be on the top and bottom (rather than the sides) but its still a fair amount weaker - I wouldnt be doing it myself

Or you could dump it in the bottom of the case and route the USB cable through an open blanking plate Depending on how big your case is of course

You cant just 'move' the OS over*, you would need to reinstall windows onto the new disk and slave the old disk. Your motherboard should have 2 IDE channels (the flat ribbon cable) and each one will support up to 2 IDE devices (hard disk or cd/dvd drive), if you only have 1 IDE socket then you can only run 2 devices. If you have 2 IDE channels then I would run your new hard disk on channel 1 as the master (end plug on the ribbon cable) and use channel 2 to drive the 2nd hard disk and cd drive as slave and master respectively. Have a trawl through google if youre not familiar with IDE slave and master settings. If you dont have enough power cables from your psu then you should be able to get a 4pin molex cable splitter/extender that will give you the additional plug you need. *You may be able to use something like norton ghost to create an image of your current install and copy that over, not sure how it works though as I always install from fresh. edit: A thought, depending on the age of your motherboard, it may have SATA channels that can be used to drive a hard disk (1 per channel); in which case simply buy a SATA hard disk and run the old hard disk and cd drive on the IDE channel.

Assuming you are only copying data over from one disk to another (rather than installed programs/OS) then theres no reason why you cant borrow the power lead from the cd drive. Once you have finished copying the stuff over leave the old hard disk in the case for emergency back up (and to keep the place tidy for the OCD ), replug the cd and jobs a goodun.

With a bit of rough maths and guesswork a vee brake has a mechanical advantage of about 10:1; a magura is closer to 8:1 I think. Would need to do some measurements to confirm that though

Has been for a couple of months I think edit: sorry, been out a month http://www.trials-forum.co.uk/forum/index....mp;hl=Brakeless

When training for ProE2000i at uni we were always taught CDI (Capture Design Intent), that is always build the model so that you can parametrically change things without destroying relationships and buggering up your model

I think the auto define sketch tool is new in SW2009, over defined sketches are pretty easy to work around as long as you havent made the sketch too complex